Malta!

[Cap'n Pete Straw]

I just returned from a week (my second trip) to Malta. I was there for a week two years ago. The trip was a deeply emotional one, and I left part of my soul there. I cannot recommend highly enough spending time there, but be warned: it is not cheap.

There is so much to say, I do not know where to begin. I wanted to start this new thread to post some of my anecdotes, stories, experiences, pirate/corsair information, etc.

The highlights of this recent trip were visits to the oldest man-made standing structures on the planet (1,000 years older than the pyramids!), a cruise on the Mediterranean aboard a 100-foot wooden gullet, a tour through the Inquisitor's Palace... and more.

Updates and (I hope!) pictures to come... watch this space...

[Rummy3]

I am so envious of you, Cap'n Pete Straw! Did you get to visit The Mosta Dome? Of anywhere on earth, Malta is the single place I want to visit most. (My grandfather was born there and my family name is Shickluna) Please share more.

[CaptainCiaran]

(Ciaran turns a deep shade of green)

Arr! Malta be very high on me list of places to one day visit. Every photograph I've ever seen mesmerizes me. Indeed there be places on this earth that touch our souls deeply; I am happy that ye've found one of yours, Cap'n Straw. Aye, do share photos and more when ye can, mate.

[Bilgemunky]

I spent some time in Malta, but I did it like a TRUE pirate and never left the bars.

Actually that wouldn't have been my first choice, but it's all my shipmates cared to do, and it fell to me to keep them out of trouble. Maybe one day I can go back and absorb some proper culture

[Rummy3]

Well, at least tell us something you learned about the bars in Malta - do they have a special drink that we should know about, Bilge Monkey?

[Bilgemunky]

Sadly, they were very touristy bars, and the information I gleaned is likely now irrelevant. For example - the blonde in the corner might look old enough, but she's really only 16. The redhead English gal is older, and seems to really like magic tricks - but that's her mother sitting next to her, so tread carefully.

But it's been quite a few years - this information is likely out of date

[Cap'n Pete Straw]

I must apologize for being negligent in posting more information. (Rummy PM'd me with a polite reminder kick to the ribs). 'Twould appear a career change is in the winds, and life has rarely been more stressful since I returned from the Mediterranean -- thus my recent lengthy absence. I'll try to make some amends here and now, but I promise there will be more to come. If I start talking about Malta (alas, my wife will likely leave me if I try to carry out my plan to retire there), I will have a hard time stopping.

Two trips to Malta, each a week long, two years apart. Sadly, they were business trips involving 16+ hour working days. Thus, the amount of free time available was almost nil. However, I took advantage of every opportunity -- and I succeeded in seeing an awful lot. Both times I stayed in the Malta Hilton, located in Portomaso, St. Julians. This is on the north coast of Malta, roughly 1/3 of the way from its easternmost side.

A quick primer to bring the more geographically-challenged up to speed... If you have a 5 Euro note, pull it out and follow along using the map on the back side ...if you do not have a 5 Euro note, well, what kind of modern-day pirate are you?. Italy, as we all know, is a great giant knee-length pirate boot. That Great Giant Pirate Boot is kicking a triangular football (which we call Sicily), and the Sicilian Football is arcing directly over a small pebble -- and that pebble we affectionately call Malta.

The country of Malta is made up of five islands -- the largest two are Malta (17 miles long) and Gozo (9 miles across). 33 people live on the small island of Comino, and the other two are uninhabited. I can tell you so much more (I have actually written a book on the subject), but if you are really interested, there is a ton of info available on the web, for instance, the map on this page. But this is not the place.

Of great historical note, open your Bible to the Book of Acts, Chapter 28. In the year AD 60, the Apostle Paul, while en route to stand trial in Rome as a political rebel, was shipwrecked on an island. Lightning, storm, high waves, horrible doom, yet Paul calmed the crew, telling them that they were in the hands of God, when their ship was dashed to pieces upon the rocks... Wait... Luke tells it much better: "And when they were escaped, then they knew that the island was called Melita." Melita is the ancient name for Malta -- meaning "island of honey" because of the abundant golden limestone. This limestone is the common building material used for virtuallyall the construction on the island. Almost everything is built out of the same golden blocks. Again... I must master the ability to post photos...

Oh, back to the Bible. Paul's preaching the Gospel to the "Barbarians" of Malta (as well as to its Roman Governor Publius... Homework for today: say the name "Publius" out loud and try not to giggle) resulted in Malta being the first country to turn to Christianity. Enough of history for now...

Bilgemunkey -- you were in Malta? Damn -- I wish I knew that when we met, I would have loved to talk more about it with you. [Off the subject -- I have a GREAT photo of you and Skorjorfordborston from Oshkosh... PM me and I will send you a copy].

Speaking of bars (Bilgemunkey brought up the subject), Paceville is immediately adjacent to the Malta Hilton hotel, and on weekend nights, thousands (I exaggerate not) of teens and young adults pack the streets and the innumerable local bars for drinking, carousing, partying and making out... and publicly urinating. Think Mardi Gras without the beads and boob flashing (at least none that I saw), and remove everyone older than 30. That's a weekend night in Paceville.

As far as "special drinks" are concerned, the prickly pear cactus grows wild all over the island. Interestingly, this plant is not native to the Mediterranean, but rather was imported from the Americas. (Yes -- I hear you: "What has this to do with drinking, Cap'n Straw? Gads, ye do so ramble on, and thou doest tax our patience anon..." My point: there is a soft drink called Kinnie which is made partially from the prickly pear fruit. It is rather bitter... think weak Pepsi, with some tonic water, and a hint of citrus. Horrid stuff when you first arrive (immediately you think of using it as a mixer in a stronger drink), but by the end of a week you are ordering it with every meal.

... But real drinkers will order Cisk. This is the native bottled lager. To me, however, yellow beer is yellow beer -- thus, I was not rather fond of it. And as British influences remain throughout the island (they ruled Malta for 100 years), Guinness is on tap in virtually every bar. Can ye guess what I drank? Even the 24-hour internet cafe/arcade in Paceville served Guinness until midnight (until 1 AM on Saturday nights!), and there is another al fresco bar that serves it 24 hours.

There are also a variety of Maltese wines, which are prized by conoisseurs. But I gave up trying to be pretentious years ago, and stuck to the Guinness. If I go back, I will try to drink a lot more so as to provide you all with a better Guide to Getting Drunk in Malta.

So... I have a gadjillion anecdotes, and over 500 pictures. Over half the pictures are work crap (it was actually a Middle East Peace Conference). If not earlier, my tech-whiz son (he is 14, so he has bionic computer implants like every teenager these days) will assist me in uploading some pics over the Xmas break.

I did NOT see the Mosta Dome (in fact, I had to Google it to remember what you are talking about)...

But I saw two of the five world's oldest buildings: the Hagar Qim and Mnajdra temples. I attended two private concerts in the glorious Manoel Theatre; visited the Maritime Museum; visited the Armoury (museum of ancient armor and weapons -- once perhaps the richest collection of its type, until someone named "Napoleon" got sticky fingers and much of its treasures suspiciously disappeared); visited the Inquisitor's Palace; Ate dinner in the Grand Hall of the Old Knight's Hospital in Valletta; toured St. John's Co-cathedral; drank beer with the locals while watching football (i.e. soccer) in several small pubs; saw the island's abundant fortifications from the sea (an opportunity not to be missed); sailed past the impressive gigantic drydocks; saw the yellow buses, the luzzus (local fishing boats) and gondolas....

Really, there is little left that I did not do. Except visit Malta a third time. I did not do that yet.

But, on a return trip, I must see the Blue Grotto; Popeye Village (the Robin Williams movie set that is maintained to this day); a ferry ride and day trip to Gozo; the Tarxien and Ggantija temple complexes (oldest structures known to mankind) ... and several of the other museums that pepper the island. There is also a commercial "Pirate Tour" aboard a wooden ship (Captain Morgan Boat Tours), where you fill yourself with beer while costumed pirates fight to the death in the middle of the Mediterranean -- must do, must do.

That's enough for now, folks. I must finish preparing for tonight's Thanksgiving feast, as well as collect my Malta photos to share with my family.

If I am counting correctly, this is my post # 1001. Cool.

[Cap'n Pete Straw]

Damn, that was a long post. Sorry.

[Rummy3]

Cap'n Pete Straw - thank you so much for the insight. I could read volumes of what you have to share about Malta! Sounds like the perfect destination for this wench~

[Cap'n Pete Straw]

If you have the chance to go, then do so. You can get there relatively inexpensively, but it will take work to be cheap while you are there.

I will post more... I promise. There is an awful lot of cool stuff packed into a very small area.

[Fox]

On the subject of bars in Malta: next time you're there don't forget to raise a glass to the greatest Billy Bones of all, Ollie Reed, who was drinking in a Maltese bar when the great landlord in the sky called last orders.

[Cap'n Pete Straw]

Cap'n Pete Straw - thank you so much for the insight. I could read volumes of what you have to share about Malta! Sounds like the perfect destination for this wench~

As you can seem I can write volumes about Malta. We need to stay away from each other.

[Cap'n Pete Straw]

While in Malta, I got myself a Maltese Cross tattooed on my hindquarters.

On Saturday, November 5, 2005, I was deeply, deeply moved while visiting the Neolithic temple complexes of Hagar Qim and Mnajdra. I connected somehow to an ancient (5,000 year old) Zeitgeist, and something happened deep within my soul, which I cannot put into words. (Was I one of the Knights in a past life? Or possibly a priest of 5,000 years ago?)

Later that afternoon, over a Steak and Ale Pie and two pints of Guinness, I felt I had to connect myself with this island in some permanent way. But none of this was planned. "Accidentally" wandering past a tattoo parlor (which was somewhat out of my way and which I already knew was there from my previous visit to Malta), I wandered in, suddenly thinking to myself "Wouldn't it be awesome to get a Maltese Cross tat while actually in Malta?"

I had 45 minutes of unobligated free time remaining to myself before I would have to plunge into a solid week of exhausting non-stop work. The artist said it would take ten minutes. I got the store's hours, thanked him, and walked out. Half a block later, I realized that if not now, then it would never happen, and I owed this to myself. I believe he was surprised to see me walk back in.

He wanted to be more artsy, using open lines and shading; I wanted it full black with no modern fanciness -- straightforward and raw. I got what I wanted. Best 20 Maltese Lira I ever spent.

The four arms of the Maltese cross are said to symbolize the four Cardinal Virtues which the Knights of Malta (actually, the Knights Hospitallers of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem) ascribed to follow: Prudence, Temperance, Justice and Fortitude.

Various meanings are offered for the eight points of the cross (including the eight nationalities from which the Knights originated), but my personal tattoo represents the popular defifnition of the eight points, which is the Knights' eight obligations (loosly based on Christ's eight Beatitudes):

To live in truth.

To have faith.

To be sincere.

To give proof of humility.

To love justice.

To be merciful.

To endure persecution.

To repent of sin.

[Captain Jim]

Found this on the web while looking for something else...

...and I remembered an earlier post of yours. It can be found at: Military Antique Shop

Thought you might find it interesting, skull and crossbones and all. The site has no information on the cross so take care in using the image if unsure of who you might be offending: It could well be some sort of military award for exterimanating a people. There are others on the site, all of them military awards of some sort.

Disclaimer time: I also have no idea what it represents and have not posted the image in an attempt to offend anyone, posting it only for it's artistic and design merits.

[Bosun Carmina]

When ye go to the site, it shows a back view of the medal on which is engraved "RMR". Could that stand fer Royal Marines Reserve?

[Jib]

did not the Knights of S. John fight back a HUGE force of the Ottoman Turks?

[Cap'n Pete Straw]

...page 23:

"In 1565, the Sultan of Turkey laid siege to the Island of Malta. 9,000 knights defended against the larger Turkish force (40,000 men and 180 ships). Suffering heavy losses in many bloody battles, the Turks finally withdrew, in the mistaken belief that a larger army was on its way to reinforce the knights..."

Some amazing stories arose from the siege... including the Sultan's barrage (by catapult) of the decapitated heads of captured prisoners into the Maltese forts. Jerk.

[Cap'n Pete Straw]

I had to add this photo (now that I have the capacity to do so)...

While in Malta, I had the opportunity to take a cruise on the Mediterranean aboard a 100-foot wooden gullet. Here's one of the shots of me enjoying the living crap out of the experience:

[Rummy3]

Is a gullet the type of boat that they paint colorfully and add eyes?

[Cap'n Pete Straw]

No, you are thinking of the local fishing boats, called luzzus. And I have plenty of pictures of those.

Here is the picture of the gullet I took (with tears of joy streaming down my face!) when I realized which boat we were going to be boarding:

Rummy3, you are so predictable! Somehow, I knew if I renewed this thread, you would post something pretty soon. Woman, get thyself to Malta! You will not regret it! Solely for your viewing pleasure, over the next few days (weeks?) I will endeavor to post additional shots I took on the island within this thread. Sit back and enjoy.

[Cap'n Pete Straw]

...And then I found this one, with a bunch of luzzus (I have better photos...). This was taken by a friend of mine who only after the trip noticed that I am in it (that guy in the lower right hand corner with the ubiquitous Guinness hat). This was in Portomasso, where there is continuous activity by the local fishermen.

For the uninitiated... Maltese fishermen paint the "Eyes of Osiris" on the prows of their boats. Tradition says that this will help the boats find their way safely back into the harbor, even in bad weather.

[Rummy3]

Oh! I want to see all your pictures! Someday indeed, I will be there. '07 I am planing the IReland trip and we are talking about Sweeden the following year, but Malta is one of my dreams. Thank you so much for sharing! I love everything you have shared - good thing you learned how to post pics! (*now if only I knew how to do the same thing *)

[Sir Beachem Quick]

Found this on the web while looking for something else...

...and I remembered an earlier post of yours. It can be found at: Military Antique Shop

Thought you might find it interesting, skull and crossbones and all. The site has no information on the cross so take care in using the image if unsure of who you might be offending: It could well be some sort of military award for exterimanating a people. There are others on the site, all of them military awards of some sort.

Disclaimer time: I also have no idea what it represents and have not posted the image in an attempt to offend anyone, posting it only for it's artistic and design merits.

Aye an excellent Peice indeed.

me being a true and honest member of the Order of St John of Jerusalem Palastine Rhodes and Malta can affirm that this is not associated with such.

my suspicion has it to be a WWII relic of the reich. Hitler transformed emblems of great hisorical significance and distinction and debased them into file emblems of death and perversion IE: the Iron Cross.

[Cap'n Pete Straw]

Okay... here we go...

Here is a picture of chain shot (linked cannonball halves which were fired to cut through masts... and men) from the Maritime Museum in Vittoriosa.

From the same museum, a "weatherproof" flintlock. Note the closeable metal box fitted around the lock mechanism, which was designed to keep your powder (and flint!) dry. Good luck shoving this in your belt.

While we are on the subject of Vittoriosa, here is an impressive shot...

Parts of Vittoriosa have been dug up so they could be flooded to create impassable moats... The view (along with the dramatic setting sun!) can make for a great picture:

One of the narrow streets of Vittoriosa.

[Cap'n Pete Straw]

Must add some gratuitous shots of myself...

Taken aboard the aformentioned gullet, you can see in the background one of the many walls built around the various Maltese cities:

It seems that no trip to Malta is complete without getting a picture of the ubiquitous Gardjola Tower that commands a complete view of the Grand Harbor at the tip of the city of Senglea (or, better yet, your picture with it in the background! Carved into the stone of the tower is an eye and an ear, indicating that the guard on watch had to be "all eyes and ears" to lookout for enemies.

And here is simply a great shot of one of the many decorated doors from all over Malta: