Reviving the old tents

[madPete]

I was thinking about replacing my old wedge tent. After checking various tent suppliers, there must be a large demand or they are all taking their sweet time in the off-season. Lead times for canvas was 2 to 6 months. Then I heard that the canvas in these tents is much heavier, so I pulled out the old tents I've used extensively over the years. Both were made from Home Depot canvas. The wedge tent was made in 2005-06. The Oar tent maybe 2012. I think 6-8 ounce canvas versus 10-12 ounce heavily coated commercial tents.

After inspection, they are still in good shape. I'm glad, cause I spent a lot of time making reinforced handsewn grommets on both for stake tiedowns. They've been recently used (Sept 2022) but were pretty drippy with some rain.  So... resprayed both with Scotchgard water repellent (It took 3 cans for both and only got halfway down on the wedge doors).

Did I mention that I take the wedge tent when I fly to events? Its much lighter than the commerical canvas tents,  and along with a folding cot, wool blanket, collapsible uprights, and stakes, the duffle comes in under 50 pounds for flying. To date, no ripped canvas or major issues either. Contained in a heavy canvas duffle.

If you make your own, be sure to wash and dry the canvas before building it. It shrinks the fabric so the space between threads is smaller and tighter. Reinforce your stake grommets with layers of fabric. I made handsewn grommet holes and run rope thru the grommets to the stakes. Then waterproof with something... I wrap the ridgepole with twine where the uprights connect, see pics. Never split any poles this way.

Poles are cut small enough to fit in the duffle (37 inches max) and connect with commercial canopy connectors that I wrapped with twine or leather. Also made a new lighter ridge pole. Previously I supported the uprights with rope and stakes only, if I flew in. If I drove to an event, I brought a heavier ridgepole. The uprights fit into the ridgepole with a large lag screw with the head ground of. It stands on its own with stakes on the corners only.  1-3/8 closet poles and 1-3/8 connectors work pretty well!

Anyway, now ready for this Pyrate season!

 

[michaelsbagley]

Nice... when I was still coordinating events l, and trying to entice those further away, a friend got a few (i think 3 or 4) ratty old tents from the estate sale of a reenactor that had passed. He kept one for himself, and gave the rest to me. Cutting poles was the easy part, patching holes, re-enforcing or replacing the loops (or other canvas care) was the hard part.

 

Those tests went on to serve those who flew in for quite a few years. I think I might still have one I have kept as a "loaner" just in case the need arises.

[madPete]

Yup, I was privileged to borrow one at St Augustine a few years back

[Stynky Tudor]

@madPete Do you recall what size canvas you used? And what are their rough foot prints?

[madPete]

The biggest I could find was 12X15 at the time. I used that plus a 7X9 I think for the wedge. The Oar tent was cut to 12x12 square.

 

[madPete]

The 15 length went from side to side so the tent is 10W by 9L and 5 1/2 ft tall (after washing it an shrinking a bit). I used the smaller piece for doors and the extra layers around the grommets. a piece on each side of main fabric.

 

[Stynky Tudor]

Noice!

I'm still scrounging around looking for my tent poles, I'm sure they're in the garage some place - just can't find anything now that its been tidied.

I've started looking at some round wood stock for replacements. Once the snow stops and things dry up here, I'll set it up and make sure everything is good.

[Stynky Tudor]

After a long thorough search of the garage, I'm at a total loss as to where my tent poles wandered off to...

I've checked out Lowe's and a number of local lumber yards and still no joy finding replacements - suggestions are welcome, I need a 3in or 4in by 9ft pole for the center beam and a couple 2in or 3in by 7ft support poles.

[madPete]

I found round closet poles in lowes and home depot (1-3/8).

If you need a pin in the uprights to fit in the beam, I buy a large lag screw. Drill a hole in the end of upright so you dont split the pole as you screw in the lag screw, and cut the head off the lag screw. instant pin.

you can section the uprights  later if you want to for storage or transportation.

You should be able to find a 2x4 for the center but probably 12ft are expensive. I was surprised at the price of wood these days. Otherwise, get a piece of square tubing that the center beam fits into (may have to cut down the beam). then cut the beam in half and drilled holes, so I could lock the beam in place with a bolt and wingnut.

[madPete]

Here's a link for the canopy pole connectors I used.

https://www.canopymart.com/1-3-8-2-way-connector-fitting.html

Now that I think about it I made a sectioned center beam with these also to fit in my duffel bag.

[Stynky Tudor]

7 hours ago, madPete said:

You should be able to find a 2x4 for the center

When I first got the tent and put everything together, I used a 2x4 (could have used a 2x3) for the center beam and used 2x2s for the support poles. Cascabel made pins for the poles to connect everything together. Since it looks like I'm going to be making new ones, I'll likely go with the lag bolt method.

At this point I've looked at or for round tent, closet & flag poles - none of the brick and mortar stores seem to have the wood ones in stock.

I did find a lumber yard that had 4"x8' round poles - of course I need 9ft for the center beam and 4" is too big for the support poles. I've looked online and the prices are just crazy - not including shipping.

A friend has invited me to come cut stuff (pine) down on his property. I've got a few scrub oaks growing here - I'll likely go with one of these options or a combination.

[michaelsbagley]

I found (red?) Oak staircase hand-rail (bannister) at one of the big box hardware stores (Home Despot? bLowes?) That is sold per foot, and available at lengths up to 10 or 12 feet. It has a flat bottom, and has served perfectly as the ridge pole for our wedge with a 9' ridge for at least 12ish years.

I guess that just leaves the question as to whether the stuff or something similar is still available after all these years.

[Stynky Tudor]

59 minutes ago, michaelsbagley said:

...Oak staircase hand-rail (bannister) at one of the big box hardware stores...

I guess that just leaves the question as to whether the stuff or something similar is still available after all these years.

The answer is yes, I recently found 8' an 12'+ banisters at my local box store - I actually like the idea of using something like this for the center ridge pole - thanks Captain Oatmeal! 

[Mary Diamond]

On 4/2/2023 at 1:39 PM, michaelsbagley said:

I found (red?) Oak staircase hand-rail (bannister) at one of the big box hardware stores (Home Despot? bLowes?) That is sold per foot, and available at lengths up to 10 or 12 feet. It has a flat bottom, and has served perfectly as the ridge pole for our wedge with a 9' ridge for at least 12ish years.

I guess that just leaves the question as to whether the stuff or something similar is still available after all these years.

Intriguing! I like it…

[madPete]

Did you multiply the price per linear foot x 9ft? Sit down when you do! LOL

Seriously, oak is overkill for a tent. Plus much heavier to transport. Altho you may not find staircase handrail in anything else. I can't believe they dont have simple fir closet poles in your part of the "woods"...

[madPete]

https://www.homedepot.com/p/EVERMARK-Stair-Parts-1-ft-Unfinished-Oak-Handrail-9100R-ESR-HD00L/202088552

 

There goes that $100 bill!  ... snickering

[Stynky Tudor]

9 hours ago, madPete said:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/EVERMARK-Stair-Parts-1-ft-Unfinished-Oak-Handrail-9100R-ESR-HD00L/202088552

There goes that $100 bill!  ... snickering

Ouch!

[Stynky Tudor]

Prices at the big box store...

[michaelsbagley]

Well there is the fact that 12+ years ago, wood prices were not as whacked as they have been over the last couple of years... But I do recall, even at 12+ year ago prices it wasn't a cheap option. But on the other side, it is distinct, and has held up incredibly well. So results can't be "all wrong".

17 hours ago, madPete said:

There goes that $100 bill!  ... snickering

But as to Stynky's photo of the prices, I wonder if pine or hemlock is the more resilient wood?

[madPete]

Michael, not saying your choice was "all wrong". Oak is just overkill at those prices.

I found this article about hemlock. Seems its used as an alternative to hardwood. Guessing thats the stronger choice over pine...

Either way, avoid the knots as much as possible!

https://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/lumber/wood-species-2/hemlock

[Stynky Tudor]

Well after thinking about it for a minute, I decided to cheap out and bought a (square) 2x3 for the ridge and 2x2s for the support poles - cost $9.41

At some point I'll cut to size, knock off the corners with an axe, maybe do a little sanding and then bathe them in linseed oil.

[Mary Diamond]

18 hours ago, madPete said:

Michael, not saying your choice was "all wrong". Oak is just overkill at those prices.

I found this article about hemlock. Seems its used as an alternative to hardwood. Guessing thats the stronger choice over pine...

Either way, avoid the knots as much as possible!

https://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/lumber/wood-species-2/hemlock

I have used hemlock, and personally am very pleased with its durability and ease to work.

[Stynky Tudor]

On 4/4/2023 at 12:54 PM, michaelsbagley said:

I wonder if pine or hemlock is the more resilient wood?

From what I saw at the big box store, the hemlock wood grain looks pretty tight/close together - I would assume structurally substantial. The way we harvest new growth pine materials, the grain is looser and has lost a lot of it's structural integrity.

[madPete]

9 hours ago, Mary Diamond said:

I have used hemlock, and personally am very pleased with its durability and ease to work.

hemlock just sounds cool 😁

"What will the solemn Hemlock- What will the Oak tree say?"

Emily Dickinson

[Mary Diamond]

Had you considered T-nuts and threaded nuts? I use these extensively for table assembles, as well as for a cane. With thicker stock and a heavier threaded rod, these may be something to consider for stool options. Using a Forster bit to create an angled depression on the bottom side of the seat to receive the leg, and rounding the foot end of the legs, can give you an angled leg that will be stable on a wide variety of surfaces.
 

https://www.rockler.com/steel-threaded-inserts-select-size

https://www.rockler.com/screw-on-tee-nuts-choose-size-thread
 

I have a scrap at home that will make a nice stool/bench - if I get a chance I will try the Forster bits+threaded inserts with epoxy, and post the results.