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GAoP-era Early 18th Century Clamshell Cutlass


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Hello folks!

Here I have a newly-made cutlass that is sure to hold it's own in any boarding action. The guard is a hammered brass clamshell with an antler grip. The blade is high-carbon steel with an excellent temper. Blade has a good working edge, so it's not razor sharp (though it will hold such an edge), however, it is not for stage combat unless the blade is extensively dulled down. Overall length is 24.5 inches. Remember, short weapons are necessary for close-combat in a boarding action. This is a really nice piece perfect for any period usage. Well-balanced and light, yet just heavy enough to cleave an enemy in one slice! $400 shipped.

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Y.M.H.S.,

Nathanael Logsdon

Militia Captain, Merchant Sailor, Tailor, Brewer, Gunrunner and Occassional Pirate...

www.piratesofpaynetown.org

www.taylor-rosehistorical.com

www.ladywashington.org

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That thing is gorgeous!

Captain Jack McCool, landlocked pirate extraordinaire, Captain of the dreaded prairie schooner Ill Repute, etc. etc.

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"That’s what a ship is, you know. It’s not just a keel, and a hull, and a deck, and sails. That’s what a ship needs. But what a ship is… what the Black Pearl really is… is freedom."

-Captain Jack Sparrow

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WOW... thats awesome...ive made my mind up...ive got to try my own clamshell.are they just on cutlasses??or daggers etc? and if you dont mind me asking what did you make the clamshell of???

Edited by adam cyphers

Here at metal wackers forge.....um....well... we wack metal.

http://www.colonialseaport.org/

http://www.creweofthearchangel.com/

http://www.blackbeardscrew.org/

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Thanks for the complements folks... I should point out that a friend of mine made the clamshell, I just put a blade in it. It is made of sheet-brass and the goard is bar stock. I will say though from my own experience that if you're going to work brass, you'd better know how to anneal it and do so often! Basically this involves heating it to a dull, glowing red and quenching it in cold water. Do this regularly while you work to keep the metal pliable. (It realigns the molecular structure of the brass and keeps it from cracking. Remember, while this makes brass and silver softer and easier to work, it actually makes carbon steel harder and more brittle, so don't use this method on steel.)Do not hammer brass while hot. That's about the best I can do on advice... Hope it helps. B)

Y.M.H.S.,

Nathanael Logsdon

Militia Captain, Merchant Sailor, Tailor, Brewer, Gunrunner and Occassional Pirate...

www.piratesofpaynetown.org

www.taylor-rosehistorical.com

www.ladywashington.org

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Ahoy-O! Having seen this Boarding Cutlass just in portraits I must say it seems as much a work of Art as a proper tool for the job! The heft that Callenish refers to is almost visable as well. I say Bravo to the Makers, well done indeed! Dutch "X" (his mark) Bosun o' the "Meka"II, Beaufort, NC

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