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stays and other female costume questions...


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I've been looking at this for some time now...

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I would love to make it, but I am not sure if I should make it a mantua or bodice gown.

Any input will be helpful.

Oh that is so pretty... I myself make it sort of like a mantua with set in sleeves. Unfortunately, the picture doesn't show the waistband or the very front of the bodice. Did you have an idea of what you were looking for?

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Lady Brower's Treasures, Clothing and other treasures

Hell Hath No Fury like the Wrath of a Woman... No that's it. She doesn't need a reason.

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I've been looking at this for some time now...

I would love to make it, but I am not sure if I should make it a mantua or bodice gown.

Any input will be helpful.

Oh that is so pretty... I myself make it sort of like a mantua with set in sleeves. Unfortunately, the picture doesn't show the waistband or the very front of the bodice. Did you have an idea of what you were looking for?

Welcome to the Pub Lady Brower, in true spirit of this forum, this discussion has kind of moved over to

this discussion topic.... Although because the discussion ranges over two threads, share your ideas on either or both as you will!

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Thank you! I'm still getting used to forums and the etiquette, please correct me if I am doing something inapropriate...

On the subject of Stays... I am just about finished my first set, but I used a butterick pattern and I am iffy on the accuracy. The boning runs horizontally across the top for about 4 inches... I haven't seen too much to indicate this, but when I first looked at the pattern it looked close but now I am not so sure. Since they only took me a week, I am going to make another set (after I finish my mantua and my hubbies clothes) But I was hoping that all the blood I shed in making them (I did it nearly entirely by hand- a first for me) was not in vain... I would DEFFINATELY appreciate any help. I'm having trouble finding "how tos" with visuals... :-(

Cook and Seamstress to the Half Moon Marauders

Lady Brower's Treasures, Clothing and other treasures

Hell Hath No Fury like the Wrath of a Woman... No that's it. She doesn't need a reason.

www.myspace.com/halfmoonmarauders

www.myspace.com/faerienoodle

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Thank you! I'm still getting used to forums and the etiquette, please correct me if I am doing something inapropriate...

Etiquette? We'll have none of that here... :ph34r:

Really there are no rules here... Some people try to keep discussions about certain topics together, some are more free-spirited.. and it is all good.

Hopefully the images and links in this thread might help you with your projects. Don't ever hesitate to ask if you have questions, as you will find, there are plenty of people here who like to help and give advice.

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GREAT WORK!! and wow, thats a lot of channels - I must say I commend you Lady Brower for doing yours by hand. But Good Lord woman!! thats insane. 4 hours on a machine would take 4 months by hand, at least for me it would. Its honorable but I think I'll take miss Mary Diamonds advice when she told me she was PFC - I was puzzled being a military brat and ex- Navy myself my first thought was PFC??? --- Private First Class????? Then in all her finery she confided, "Pretty F'in Close" - I almost died laughing when she said it, standing there in her mourning clothes - anyway she gave me the lovely and much welcomed benefit of the 10 foot rule. If they can't tell at 10 paces, I'm good. Bless you Mary! I love my sewing machine.

Thanks for sharing the pictures Kate and for everyones advice.

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“PIRACY, n. Commerce without its folly-swaddles, just as God made it.”

Ambrose Bierce

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Ah, there you go, Rusty, sharing all my secrets. :(:P

Truth be told ~ I simply don't have the time or inclination to hand stitch everything. If it is an item that will be show the stitching (such as handkerchiefs, cravats, hems on necklines and sleeves) then I absolutely hand stitch. All hidden seams are machined.

Too busy creating furniture, documents, selling shoes, helping family ~ so I do what I can to make the projects more manageable.

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wow the skirt on the left looks to be ermine... I can just imagine how gorgeous and heavy it is.

Well, I am hoping not too heavy. I do plan to dance in it at ReenactorFest V. You've got me thinking though, RustyNell. I do remember running to the hallway with Matty Bottles, another one of our fine crewe, and catching the cold winter breezes from the hallway when someone went outside to cool off.

Hmm...velvet and fur....(What the heck am I thinking?!) :(

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Determination. It took me the better part of 4 hours last night to get all of the boning in, therefore that was all I got finished last night.

I have one question for you. How many yards of cane reed did you use? Other than your fingers bleeding and turning numb during the process Kate, how do you feel over all?

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On the subject of Stays... I am just about finished my first set, but I used a butterick pattern and I am iffy on the accuracy. The boning runs horizontally across the top for about 4 inches... I haven't seen too much to indicate this, but when I first looked at the pattern it looked closebut now I am not so sure.

LadyBrower,

I know the pattern of which you speak. My twin sister made them and I know that Mary Diamond also made them for herself. I have worn them, yet my sister did not use cane, she used poly-boning and I highly suggest cane/reed instead.

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Ah, there you go, Rusty, sharing all my secrets. :(:P

Truth be told ~ I simply don't have the time or inclination to hand stitch everything. If it is an item that will be show the stitching (such as handkerchiefs, cravats, hems on necklines and sleeves) then I absolutely hand stitch. All hidden seams are machined.

Too busy creating furniture, documents, selling shoes, helping family ~ so I do what I can to make the projects more manageable.

Ohh didn't know it was a secret.... oops! :D I thought it was the smartest thing I'd heard in weeks. You took a load off my mind by sharing that...didn't mean to out ya. I work and am too busy if i had to sew it all by hand it would be a year before I could wear it. Still, I plan on doing a little hand work as well - maybe even some embroidery. And I have some handmade lace my grandmother made, yards of it, just waiting for the right thing to put it on.

Kate you used a machine for those channels didn't you? That would have taken a heck of a lot longer than 4 hours. more like 4 days at the least.

Curious about Cheeky's question about the cane reed is it tough on your hands?

RNR2.gif

“PIRACY, n. Commerce without its folly-swaddles, just as God made it.”

Ambrose Bierce

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On the subject of Stays... I am just about finished my first set, but I used a butterick pattern and I am iffy on the accuracy. The boning runs horizontally across the top for about 4 inches... I haven't seen too much to indicate this, but when I first looked at the pattern it looked closebut now I am not so sure.

LadyBrower,

I know the pattern of which you speak. My twin sister made them and I know that Mary Diamond also made them for herself. I have worn them, yet my sister did not use cane, she used poly-boning and I highly suggest cane/reed instead.

I'm glad someone else has used the pattern... But I think I am going to buy the one from reconstructing history.

But Ugh, I used spiral steel... and never will again. I used to civil war reenact and the favored boning was the steel... I may rip it all out and replace it with reed... which seems to be MUCH less expensive per foot than steel, and from what I've read so far, just better in general. This is definitely a learning experience...

Cook and Seamstress to the Half Moon Marauders

Lady Brower's Treasures, Clothing and other treasures

Hell Hath No Fury like the Wrath of a Woman... No that's it. She doesn't need a reason.

www.myspace.com/halfmoonmarauders

www.myspace.com/faerienoodle

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wow the skirt on the left looks to be ermine... I can just imagine how gorgeous and heavy it is.


Well, I am hoping not too heavy. I do plan to dance in it at ReenactorFest V. You've got me thinking though, RustyNell. I do remember running to the hallway with Matty Bottles, another one of our fine crewe, and catching the cold winter breezes from the hallway when someone went outside to cool off.

Hmm...velvet and fur....(What the heck am I thinking?!) :(



You're thinking it will be gorgeous! Beauty is pain. I can't wait to see photos

RNR2.gif

“PIRACY, n. Commerce without its folly-swaddles, just as God made it.”

Ambrose Bierce

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On the subject of Stays... I am just about finished my first set, but I used a butterick pattern and I am iffy on the accuracy. The boning runs horizontally across the top for about 4 inches... I haven't seen too much to indicate this, but when I first looked at the pattern it looked closebut now I am not so sure.

LadyBrower,

I know the pattern of which you speak. My twin sister made them and I know that Mary Diamond also made them for herself. I have worn them, yet my sister did not use cane, she used poly-boning and I highly suggest cane/reed instead.

I'm glad someone else has used the pattern... But I think I am going to buy the one from reconstructing history.

But Ugh, I used spiral steel... and never will again. I used to civil war reenact and the favored boning was the steel... I may rip it all out and replace it with reed... which seems to be MUCH less expensive per foot than steel, and from what I've read so far, just better in general. This is definitely a learning experience...

Cook and Seamstress to the Half Moon Marauders

Lady Brower's Treasures, Clothing and other treasures

Hell Hath No Fury like the Wrath of a Woman... No that's it. She doesn't need a reason.

www.myspace.com/halfmoonmarauders

www.myspace.com/faerienoodle

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I'm glad someone else has used the pattern... But I think I am going to buy the one from reconstructing history.

LadyBrower,

I highly recommend doing a ‘mock-up’ of this pattern in inexpensive material before cutting your finer fabric. By doing this, your stays will fit better.

Cheeky

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Hmm...velvet and fur....(What the heck am I thinking?!) :D
You're thinking it will be gorgeous! Beauty is pain. I can't wait to see photos.

Yes, what we women go through to look BEEEAAAUTIFUL! Only Mary and I would be insane enough to wear black wool in the tropics....Oh, and Captain Sterling too...We suffer for our fashion!

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I'm glad someone else has used the pattern... But I think I am going to buy the one from reconstructing history.

But Ugh, I used spiral steel... and never will again. I used to civil war reenact and the favored boning was the steel... I may rip it all out and replace it with reed... which seems to be MUCH less expensive per foot than steel, and from what I've read so far, just better in general. This is definitely a learning experience...

If you have reenacted before and done corsetry prior, I would HIGHLY recommend Waugh's Corsets and Crinolines book and use the corset pattern from that instead...


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Hmm...velvet and fur....(What the heck am I thinking?!) :D
You're thinking it will be gorgeous! Beauty is pain. I can't wait to see photos.

Yes, what we women go through to look BEEEAAAUTIFUL! Only Mary and I would be insane enough to wear black wool in the tropics....Oh, and Captain Sterling too...We suffer for our fashion!

I wasn't suffering... twas bloody cold ....


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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LadyBrower,

I know the pattern of which you speak. My twin sister made them and I know that Mary Diamond also made them for herself. I have worn them, yet my sister did not use cane, she used poly-boning and I highly suggest cane/reed instead.

I'm glad someone else has used the pattern... But I think I am going to buy the one from reconstructing history.

But Ugh, I used spiral steel... and never will again. I used to civil war reenact and the favored boning was the steel... I may rip it all out and replace it with reed... which seems to be MUCH less expensive per foot than steel, and from what I've read so far, just better in general. This is definitely a learning experience...

If you have reenacted before and done corsetry prior, I would HIGHLY recommend Waugh's Corsets and Crinolines book and use the corset pattern from that instead...

Lady Brower ~

I did indeed use the pattern you mention, with the horizontal boning. I didn't like the way it sat when finished, as it creased immediately under my breasts, not giving the proper form for our period. I have since made several others, my favorite being from Waugh, as mentioned by Captain Sterling above. One of the easiest to work with, and period correct to boot.

MDtrademarkFinal-1.jpg

Oooh, shiny!

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Ohh didn't know it was a secret.... oops! :D I thought it was the smartest thing I'd heard in weeks. You took a load off my mind by sharing that...didn't mean to out ya. I work and am too busy if i had to sew it all by hand it would be a year before I could wear it. Still, I plan on doing a little hand work as well - maybe even some embroidery. And I have some handmade lace my grandmother made, yards of it, just waiting for the right thing to put it on.

No worries, dear Nell! Tis a loose secret, you are not the first I have told.

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Oooh, shiny!

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Ah, there you go, Rusty, sharing all my secrets. :wacko::blink:

Truth be told ~ I simply don't have the time or inclination to hand stitch everything. If it is an item that will be show the stitching (such as handkerchiefs, cravats, hems on necklines and sleeves) then I absolutely hand stitch. All hidden seams are machined.

Too busy creating furniture, documents, selling shoes, helping family ~ so I do what I can to make the projects more manageable.

Ohh didn't know it was a secret.... oops! :D I thought it was the smartest thing I'd heard in weeks. You took a load off my mind by sharing that...didn't mean to out ya. I work and am too busy if i had to sew it all by hand it would be a year before I could wear it. Still, I plan on doing a little hand work as well - maybe even some embroidery. And I have some handmade lace my grandmother made, yards of it, just waiting for the right thing to put it on.

Kate you used a machine for those channels didn't you? That would have taken a heck of a lot longer than 4 hours. more like 4 days at the least.

Curious about Cheeky's question about the cane reed is it tough on your hands?

Yeah I'm the only arse that sews everything, inside and out, by hand, depending on who tis for... but I have been doing it for so long now, that hand sewing goes pretty darn fast...


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Are ye agreeing with me or admitting ye are one as well? :angry:


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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No, Rusty, I didn't use a machine. All of the boning channels, as well as all of the other parts of my stays are completely handsewn. They took me about 14-15 hours to sew the channels. It took me about 4 hours to get all of the boning in.

We have a sewing machine, two of them actually, but we don't use either. Everything Mickey and I do is completely hand sewn. Granted, he does most of it, but I am learning. :angry:

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Did ye back stitch all the channels?


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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