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Breeches help needed


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I was wondering if I could get some help on picking a fabric for my next pair of breeches. I've got a black pair, but I want to go with something lighter, like a dark tan or dark green. I'm looking for something to go with a pair of black boots. Eventually leading to a matching waistcoat...

Despite the boots I want to keep the breeches historically accurate. I'm at a loss for historically accurate colors and fabrics. I've hit the internet and I'm torn between doing a wool or cotton canvas.

Any input would be greatly appreciated, Thanks.

Pantless Pogue

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Conceptual Simplicity, Structural Complexity, Achieves a Greater State of humanity.

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Despite the boots I want to keep the breeches historically accurate. ...I'm torn between doing a wool or cotton canvas.

If "historically accurate" is just the propper "cut" of the breaches, then cotton is much cheaper.....

But.......cotton wouldn't be period.....wool, linen or hemp is correct.....

Unfortunatly.... hemp is going for about $15.00 a yard, and it take about two yards to make a pair.......

You could go with wool if you want a matching waistcoat.....

look up the slops contract thread in Twill, for more information.....

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I agree with Mr. Hand. If its just the "cut" of the breeches, then cotton will be fine.

I myself am going to be making a couple of pairs here soon. (Kass, here I come.) I want to at least one of them out of hemp canvas and the other out of

linen canvas.

If your feeling froggy and adventurous, you could dye the fabric any color you want. That is more work though. Just my 2 cents. :lol:

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I'd go with the canvas, myself. It's tough, cool, and when it's dirty, just throw it in the washing machine. I think either color would be nice, but the brown would be my first choice. :lol:

"Now then, me bullies! Would you rather do the gallows dance, and hang in chains 'til the crows pluck your eyes from your rotten skulls? Or would you feel the roll of a stout ship beneath your feet again?"

---Captain William Kidd---

(1945)

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Are you planning on making a pair of knee breaches, slops or trousers ?

And are you planning on compleatly machine sewing them, or machine sewing the inside seams, and hand finishing all the visible seams (very common among all but the most rabid reenactors,) or hand sewing them?

If you can draft a pattern, then you will want to check out Gentleman Of Fortune's web page.....

http://www.gentlemenoffortune.com/Justaucorps.htm

Right above the pictures of him in a Purple Justaucorps are two links to period patterns.... but you have to do some fiddling with them to make them work.... (these are what I use to make slops or trousers.... I just change the width of the legs.....)

If you don't know how to draft a pattern, you should check out Kass's web page....

http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/index...hp?c=1&w=38&r=Y

Where she sells patterns, and fabric.....

Now I gotta track down some fabric and buttons

Unless you need some Pyrate garb "right now"..... I'd suggest taking a little more time to figure out exactly what you want....check out Twill, etc.... If you are "set" on making them outta cotton, no problem..... but if in the back of your mind there is that nasty voice telling you that linen or hemp or wool would be better........

Right now, my slops and trousers are cotton canvas..... but I'm about to order some hemp and re-make them right......

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Patrick,

Where do you get hemp canvas? How does it wear compared to cotton canvas; is it hotter than cotton canvas? Does it need to have a lining? How does twill compare to both?

I really don't know the paticulars of the fabrics to make a good decision. I'm currently in Texas looking at moving to Portland, so temperature is an issue.

I'm not in any big hurry. I've got a seamstress that is going to go off of my current knee breeches (C&D Jarnagin Co.) , so it'll probably be machine sewn.

Thanks for all the input,

PP

Conceptual Simplicity, Structural Complexity, Achieves a Greater State of humanity.

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Lets not forget linen either, cool too wear and historically correct.

you can also google hemp canvas or hemp fabric and find something.

GoF

Come aboard my pirate re-enacting site

http://www.gentlemenoffortune.com/

Where you will find lots of information on building your authentic Pirate Impression!

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Patrick,

Where do you get hemp canvas? How does it wear compared to cotton canvas; is it hotter than cotton canvas? Does it need to have a lining? How does twill compare to both?

I really don't know the paticulars of the fabrics to make a good decision. I'm currently in Texas looking at moving to Portland, so temperature is an issue.

I'm not in any big hurry. I've got a seamstress that is going to go off of my current knee breeches (C&D Jarnagin Co.) , so it'll probably be machine sewn.

Thanks for all the input,

PP

Well I'm not Patrick, but I just learned this little bit of info a short time ago from someone here in this forum.

Canvas has two threads twisted together in one direction, and a single thread going across the two threads and is done in a simple weave.

Twill fabrics have two seperate threads going in one direction, and then one (or two) seperate threads going in the opposite direction, and is woven in a more complex manner than canvas.

There are probably more complexities that could be explained, but this is the short version of the answer.

As for how different does hemp canvas wear from cotton canvas.... Having not ever used hemp canvas I can only guess... But I would guess it would start out being stiffer than cotton canvas, but hemp would eventualy soften up as nicely. Hemp canvas would probably last longer and be more durable. This is just a guess, so please do not take this as gospel, I'm sure there are plenty of folks here that could provide information based on experience rather than theoretic guesses.

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Captain Pogue.....

I might be asking some more questions.

Ain't that the idea..... ask questions an' figure this stuff out.......

I made first garb outta cotton.... but now I'm re-sewing it outta hemp and linen...(and wool)

ye can be stuborn like I am.... or can get a buncha good information from thoes that have alrady "learned" how to do it.......

so just go ahead... ask th' stupid questions....

'cause we love them.. we ask them ourselved..... dang... we are all learning....

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What Patrick said. That and don't decide to save money by making period correct patterns with incorrect cloth to "save money" as you will then have to remake everything over again because, face it, if you didn't care you wouldn't be using correct patterns in the first place.

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My occupational hazard bein' my occupation's just not around...

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Man you couldn't even wear materials to any events in Cali...you'd bake yourself.

I made my boyfriend some new ones..just altered a harem pants pattern and made them to length just below the knees and then put in drawstrings in the waist and at the knees length. Added some pockets sewed some really cool vintage looking buttons at the knee drawstring opening. I bought some kind of polyester/cotton blend at the cheapy fabric store. The material was black with very very thin stripes of purple (alternating thin stripes of black and purple. You can only tell there are stripes if you look very closely. They look great with his black shirt.....cause black on black is kinda boring. If you look at Jack Sparrow pants they have stripes...seems I see that alot. Thin stripes.

Not historical but who is going to inspect at a Pyrate/ Ren Faire..lol B)

~~~~Sailing Westward Bound~~~~

Lady Alyx

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Man you couldn't even wear materials to any events in Cali...you'd bake yourself.

That is why you want to use natural fibers..... wool... linen or Hemp.... (and cotton)

OK.... Wearing my wool jacket in Southern California or Florida (PiP) is too hot..... but without the jacket, the rest on my garb is comfortable ......

A flashy synthitic Justicorp (coat) may look nice.... but you will roast even quicker than with heavy wool......

Something else to consider.... if your going to be using black powder weapons..... natural fibers don't melt like synthetics do.......

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