michaelsbagley

1 hour ago, TudorSmith said:

But the highly noticeable smocked collar just laughed at me lol

I'd laugh at you as well over that... before I started gushing about how freaking amazing of a job you did on that!

Yeesh, that is gorgeous work!

23 hours ago, TudorSmith said:

But I love my hand thrown pottery mugs too much to risk traveling with them and plastic lined leather just reads too RenFaire to me and gives me brutal flashbacks lol.

Leather jacks were really quite common in the 17th century. In fact, the French (that old French-English rivalry thing again) loved to mock the English for "drinking out of boots"

The better ones are made using food grade resin.. the more accurate ones use beeswax or brewer's pitch.... both of which can get soft and melt under the temps of hot beverages.... but if you find a food-grade resin lined on, those are generally pretty decent for hot beverages.

23 hours ago, Stynky Tudor said:

There's also a possibly issue with alcohol leaching lead form pewter too - accumulative.

Worth keeping in mind, but it is actually pretty hard to even find leaded pewter any more.... like as difficult s finding leaded gasoline.

16 minutes ago, TudorSmith said:

So, Apparently the melting point of pewter starts at 170° and the average cup of coffee is 160.....things I should have read up on *before* buying the mug lol....

Looks like it only iced coffee for me for the event lol!! (Or I kife a plastic lined leather mug from my husband. Or I risk one of my pottery mugs....i have plenty of options I'm just cranky and on a deadline and want to whinge lol)

Yeah, there are better reasons for not drinking hot coffee or tea out of pewter (or any metal) mugs.... ask any older naive reenactor why, and they will point to their lips and say "ouch".

Seriously, for hot beverages, ceramic or wood only.

I hate to be lazy, but being on a road trip for the last 5 days I missed this thread... and there has already been a TON stated.

But all the above aside.
Let me remind everyone that I am driving down.

I have a big tavern setup I have been using since 2016, which includes period cookware (brass/copper kettles of various sizes, dutch ovens, fire irons, knives, ladles etc). While I can not bring my pavillion (I am hoping to drive my car down, not the SUV), cookware and accessories is something I can make room for if you let me know what you need.

I also have a ton of experience with camp cooking, both period recipes, or period-ish recipes to balance ambience and to help meet dietary constraints of a diverse collection of people.

4 hours ago, Morgan Dreadlocke said:

A question of technique instead of instrument- Tis possible to play a violin in the manner of the pic? (limited wrist mobility)

I imagine so. That looks very much like a Cello hold.... so I imagine it would be easier if you worked with an instructor that knows both cello and violin.

13 hours ago, madPete said:

My singing voice has a very narrow range, so I never spent much time on music. Now I'm wishing I had learned an instrument...

It's never too late... I was 47 years old when I began to learn the fiddle (3 years ago)... outside of being an "enthusiastic hack" as a teenager with a guitar, I have never had any previous musical training.

I'm sstill not a great player by any measure... but I can carry and hold a (easy) tune for campfire settings.

45 minutes ago, Stynky Tudor said:

SWEET, Captain Oatmeal in full effect!

What songs do you play?

Period appropriate (or close enough that only the pedantic will complain):

Jamaica (or with Lyrics as "Jolly Broom Man")

Au Claire de la Lune (French folk song)

Chevalier de la Table Ronde (French folk)

J'ai du Bon Tabac (French folk)

We Be Soldiers Three

Childgrove (rusty on this one, but I'll try and brush up)

Packington's Pound (also need to be dusted off).

Famous Ratcatcher (rusty as well)

Leaving period music, a mix of stuff although my teacher has mostly had me working on American Folk/Americana (with a dash of pop, rock, or Jazz now and then to mix things up)... and maybe one or two Irish folk pieces.

9 minutes ago, Stynky Tudor said:

I love the sound of fiddles. Michael, are you bringing yours to Massacre Island?

I certainly am... and I am just just enough of a weirdo to have bought a "baroque" bow as well, which travels with my road fiddle.

53 minutes ago, Mary Diamond said:

Ah, FB Bagsley 😄❤️😊… you have my great admiration, as always, surprising and impressing with items just casually laying about… 

In fairness, I think I had previously offered them up.... but distractions got in the way, and I failed to follow through that time.

So I apologize to the individual I previously offered them to. Although in fairness, these should be a traveling gift, and I am certain MadPete will be better at follow up and sharing them forward than I have been for the years I have sat on them.

A version of the Mercury bale-mark as a wood block already exists. I went with a bale-mark design rather than the flag/jolly-roger, but this is up for grabs for the asking.

I used it on some of my canvas covered camp-crates, but its sat in a drawer for the last 6 or 7 years since I made it.

One caveat, the face of this wood block may not be perfectly flat (carved in cheap lumber), so it may be easier to use by laying the fabric on top of the block rather than as a stamp.

P.S. I hve a few others in historic/semi-historic patterns I'd happily give any of those away. The only one I am definitely keeping is the one I made as a personal sigil. I've used them so much, if I ever need more, I would cut new ones for diversity rather than more duplication, so sharing these around would be a good use for them.

Violin/Fiddle works... the proportions of period violins/fiddles versus their modern counterparts are so nominal, only a pro (or close-to-pro) would be able to tell the difference. Stratavari (the guy who designed/built the violins known as Stratavarius) live through the era. And Stratavari's design are what most modern designs are built upon. Sure Amari (sp?) were pretty popular in era, and they were a little smaller/more-compact, but again, it takes a sharp eye to see those nuances.

The biggest change in fiddle/violin playing, is the bow. The modern bow was developed in the mid/late-18th century. Earlier bows tended to have a convex bow instead of the later concave curve. You can of course buy a "baroque bow" (not the period term, but the modern term applied to the earlier shaped bows) to play with a modern fiddle... However they tend to be more expensive, and harder to find.

And because I have seen it (but also can not provide the link), I have at least one or two people on my Factlessbook who have purchased one of these puzzle boxes, and there is a group on that platform for assembly help and configuration assistance,

Sounds similar to Buckeye Lake in Ohio.. a man-made (and unpleasant smelling) artificial lake. I recall chat of a winery on or near the shores of Buckeye Lake Ohio planning a pirate fest years ago.... but I never heard if that went off or not.

I hate being a trend follower, but I see a Gorrel in my near future.

Hidden Lakes Winery in Ohio? Near Buckeye Lake?

While I've more or less retired from the life of piracy, I do know quite a few folks local and localism that might be interested.

Fully agree (with madPete's above assertion)... most of my period shirts (and my wife's shifts) the shoulder seam falls about at the bottom point of my shoulder (which almost can be drawn in a same line as my arm pit).... I get a little variety on this within a few inches either way, but that is something unusual to get used to for correct period fit.

Of possible use/help, Bernadette Banner (popular YouTube costumer) did a video on making shirts this past week (and references an earlier vide on the topic as well). While the shirt she is making is definitely later period, most of the techniques apply. Hopefully this might be of help/use to you.
 

I've not found wool for under $25 per yard for a few years now... and most of what I see averages $30-$40 or more per yard.... That said, I am stupid and not clever enough to shop thrift stores... but hawt dang.... that is an amazing find!

I've never done a tapered sleeve.... Or maybe I did for War of 1812 and don't remember. The other suggestion I might make on closer look at your measurements.... is a deeper neck slit. I just finished a shirt for a friend with a 10" slit (just like your diagram)... and I thought the slit was a little shorter than it might have should have been... I might suggest going 12"-14". Most of my older shirts have a deeper slit, and I don't know why I did this one so short.

Every time you post about "Long Beach" I always think, he travels to New York a lot.... and then I realize, it is in Cali.

The next few weekends are a bit hectic for me either family obligations or what-not... 

But any time in late July through August, I am game for meeting in Lima. Is it a mountain bike trail? Or paved trail? (Or gravel?). Im asking in case Jessica might be interested as well (she doesn't do mountain bike or gravel).

There's not a lot of primary source references on shirts... but based on the few examples, and somewhat supported by period artwork...

The main differences between later period shirts and earlier ones... is the collars and cuffs tend to be 1" to 1-1/2" in the GAoP... and some of the reinforced areas don't appear to be present earlier.

Pedantic aside... awesome job. That looks great!

For what it's worth, both to make my life easier, and to get that extra bit of gathering that tends to be more prevalent in the earlier period, I tend to just use squares (based on the needed length) for my arm patterns.

That is a brilliant endorsement!

And much appreciate the suggestion of a good industrial grade adhesive 

Mission, I am driving down...

If you are truly intent on attending, I am sure with us being only a few hours drive apart, we can arrange to meet up some time over the summer, and again some time in the autumn after the event to hand off the gear so I can bring it down and back up for you. That way you can have the gear without the worry of having to fly with it.

Teach me to not read further back in the conversation.

But yeah, I've never tried the Kannick's slops.... but I've used enough of their other stuff to trust them. They make good patterns.

The RH breeches pattern has a lot of variables.... and can be quite workable, if you are patient and ask the correct people the right questions.

First peice of advice, never even mention them on "historical costuming" discussion forums or boards. All you will get is a tidal wave of negativity.

That said, the "Late period" breeches pattern from that set, I have never gotten to work correctly. I got close before giving up, and if I tried again, I probably could "get it". This was the variant that was the most problematic on the fit of the seat. Another 'problem' with this variant, is they fit VERY "low-rise", like they fit lower on the hip than most people are used-to/comfortable-with. Like lower than even modern low-rise jeans.

The "early period" breeches, I managed to get to work going up one size on the waistband, and 2 sizes on the leg portions (I have pretty muscular upper legs, so a thinner persion might get away with only going up a single size). These are my personal favourite from this pattern package.

madPete's suggestion of the Kannicks Korner pattern is alright.... those work. However, if memory serves, those are drop-fly breeches, and not appropro for GAoP (unless they have a French Fly pattern I am unaware of). And even then, knowing Kannicks are very much mid-to-late 18th c. and 19th c. pattern company, my guess is, that even if they have a "French Fly" breeches pattern, they will look and fit like later period breeches (snugger in fit and more tapered) than GAoP should.

If you use the RH pattern, you will find the instruction to make a mock-up out of garbage/cheap fabric first....  the best path to success is to NOT SKIP that step, which most of the haterz do..... and then wonder why the RH patterns get so much hate.