Capt. Sterling

The glossary in An Elegant Art states: Surtout "(M/F) long, loose overcoat with one or more spreading collars called capes. Became known in the the nineteenth century as a box coat. Worn by men 1680-1840s; after 1790, also worn by women. "He was forced constantly to wear a surtout of oiled cloth, by which means he came home pretty clean." Arbuthnot, Law is a Bottomless Pit, Exemplified in the Case of ...John Bull, 1712 Hector

According to Laver and Brooke's English Costume from the Seventeenth Through the Nineteenth Centuries "The toupet, or hair immediately over the forehead, was often natural, the join between the wig and the real hair being disguised by a liberal use of powder." An Elegant Art states toupee "M/F) Curl or artificial lock of hair on the top of the head. "Love in his lac'd coat lies,/And peeps from his toupee."Fielding, Grubstreet Opera, 1731. "Little Girls have their heads dressed a foot high so that their Faces seem to be just half way between the top of their Toupets and their feet." Northumberland, Diaries of a Duchess, 1774. Hector

Many fashion plates from the late 17th century which show the large baldrick also show a number of them... not all, caught at the waist by a sash. Also I can tell you, from experience when riding at a full gallop, a leather sword belt, not properly held in place by a shoulder strap or epaulette will slip off your shoulder... So now comes the question, depending on the type of shoulder, the fabric of the coat or buff coat, or the type of shoulder carriage may all come into play... Hector

"leftenant" is only the way we pronounce "lieutenant", and it's been that way since long before either shoulder knots or epaulettes. Yes, I realize the spelling is the same and the pronuciation is different, just trying to figure out how to show that in type. Like I said At least during the Rev. War it was common for Lieutenants in the British army to wear a single epaulette on the left shoulder. What I was trying to say was that at least at one point the rank tied in with the name and could be used to distinguish that rank from others... ... and in the long run, was trying to say that shoulder knots or bands as Pepys refers to them may very well have been used to secure a baldrick on one's shoulder, just like epaulettes or just a shoulder strap with button were used on the regimental coats to hold crossbelts in place during the Rev. War. Research has only come up with "so fars" and "Maybes". Hector

Yes I believe either Waugh, 1700 London, Restoration London states that at first shoulder knots WERE used to keep the baldrick in place so that it would NOT shift off the shoulder. Then they became fashionable as seen in many fashion plates (especially when waist carriage began to replace the baldrick). Even as late as the American Rev. War. the Epaulettes on many regimental coats for dragoons/cavalry even foot regiments, were use to keep the cross belts from falling off your shoulders. So it seems very, very likely that originally shoulder knots did tie the heavy baldricks in place. It is common in the British army for a special epaulette to be worn on the left shoulder for lieutenants... as in England (at least during the Rev. War) they were actually called leftenants.... Hector

We've discussed this on a 19th century list and tinted glasses were considered healthful for those inflicted with VD. But I believe it was only certain colors and most folks, it seems, refused to wear them because it marked you. If you want, I'll go search the archives.... Hector

Yes according to An Elegant Art, Fashion & Fantasy in the Eighteenth Century from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art Collections of Costumes and textiles... Dimity is "fine ribbed cotton fabric woven with raised stripes or figures; made first in Damietta, India. Used undyed for beds, bedroom hangings, and for garments. 'A half bedstead as the new mode, dimity with fine shades of worstead works well made up.' Fiennes, Diary, c.1710. 'His waistcoat was a white dimity, richly embroidered with yellow silk.' Fielding, Life of Jonathan Wild the Great. 1743." And all you wig wearers will LOVE this... "Dildo: (M)Sausage-shaped curl of a wig. Worn throughout the late seventeenth and eighteenth centuries." (M) denotes those used by males. Same reference. Hector

And I was wondering, just how well all those velvets and silks would hold out at sea as compared to good woolen garmetnts?? Still you've got to love that quote about the captain pacing the deck in his good silk banyan as his ship was coming into port... but then he wasn't a pirate.... Hector

Now see those already make putting a good kit together that much easier! Hector Post Script What width on the lace would you be interested in?

Not only that, but do you know what real silver lace looks like after 15 mins in humid weather... it turns black... and looks right nasty!! Hector GOF There are three places for silver and gold lace, I will get you the website lists and there is a place in India, Hand I believe, that if you could actually track down a period pattern will make the lace to your specifications... like the shoes, it might be worth thinking about... but then again, how many captains can there be wearing the same exact lace on their coats?? right now Kass has me trying to hunt down colors for worsted narrowwares or lace if you prefer....Anyone have a close up shot of the lace on the Red Suit?

Narrow wares (sp) is a term that was used back then due to the looms the trims were woven on... being narrow... Hector

But GOF already do make passimenterie buttons!! And there are certainly other places to obtain silver or gold narrowwares... certainly not Joann's! Although I do agree that the average reenactor may not want to tackle such a project it is still doable. :) Hector

Yes but all that booty noise wouldn't be noticable if you were wearing the correct spurs.... Hector

I suppose that would depend on how many podiatrists there were in the last quarter of the 17th century and the 18th century. Check out personal journals and wills... you'd be surprised how many pairs of shoes were passed down through wills... the task now becomes how many actual wills of known GAoP pirates and even ordinary sailors are still available to read over? Hector

Not hard to put together, if you know your stuff and are good with a needle, just possibly costly... and GOF this is not a gentleman's suit, it is assumed to be a younger boy's. The V&A's book, Four Hundred Years of Fashion, I believe, goes into further detail about this outfit. I'm still unpacking after the move and haven't come across my copy yet or I would type it out for you... Hector

Blackbeard on the National Geographic Channel SUNDAY MARCH 12 8P et/9P pt

The bottom picture, wish I could find my Hogarth book, it explains a lot of what the characters symbolized or represented, any way the fella with the stiff looking boots is wearing spurs and the case he is carrying looks very similar to a valiesse or port-mantau (forgive spelling both cases) which were cases carried behind the saddle when riding, like a suitcase. I doubt very much he is supposed to represent anything other than some type of horseman or cavalry folk. Hector

If this image is of one of the Versailles statues, it was done in the 1830s, according to some help from the Early 18th century wars list. Hector

MOST of the public hasn't a clue! I captained a reenactment group of the 17th Light Dragoons, a rev war Brit calvary unit stationed in America. We have the famous skull and cross bones on our helmet plates... you would not believe HOW MANY PEOPLE thought we were pirates on horseback!!!! As far as historical pirate versus hollywood... hey do as you please. I'm all for historical personally. What I find disturbing are them that are hollywood and say this is what a real pirate would have looked like! Why mislead the public? Why do so many hollwood types not state the truth that they are "hollywood" or simply state, plain and simple, that they are just out to have fun? Or even still, why not explain the myth behind your characterization? I've been part of a Wild West event that shows the difference to the public regarding Reel West versus Real West... it is wonderfully done. I think the public would love to know your kit is based on the "ideals" of fiction and film, not history. Nothing wrong with that... Hector

I would think that highway men intent on robbery would be as heavily armed as possible and yet still be able to ride away with haste. What I'm not seeing from the quote is whether the fellow giving chase with his servant, was pretty much on the road traveling, in which case he might be heavily armed as well for protection. Does the rest of the book mention anything about pistol buckets, and other tack that could be used for carrying all the additional weapons? I think it might be hard to compare carrying guns on the road with your average citizen walking about town... although I do agree swords were carried on a regular basis by gentlemen. Neat quote, as always Foxe... Where's it from? Just purchased Stand and Deliver by Brandon but haven't yet cracked the cover. Hector

Thanks Foxe! Hey, in my Uniforms of Trafalgar, I believe it mentions that boots were worn by officers, that could afford them, for protection from splinters... What's your take on that? and have you ever come across anything similar for the GAoP? Just wondering. As for the cavalry officer...hmmm, I think that would make sense, don't you? :) Hector

http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/mwebcgi...500872;type=803 The above link is a collection of actual fashion plates circa 1670s-80s from the French court.... as the French were already setting fashion you may want to look over some of these. Most are for Gentleman, I believe there is one ship's captain, and some merchants... If you click on the prints you can enlarge them. If you click on the words below they translate some of the french, give artist and dates... Hector

Methinks they be meanin' those shirts worn by the famous poets: Shelley, Lord Byron, and Keats in yer historical drama Blackadder, Mr. Gentleman, sir... Yaaaaaarrrrr! Love the blue glass tricorn! OH HEAVENS!!! KASS, you be talkin Pyrate!!! I caught you! I caught you! Hector & the Captain chuckling behind his hat....

No offense to the Duchess but Gilbert and Sullivan were most busy during the last quarter of the 19th century. I believe their last joint work was finished in 1896. Sullivan died some time afterward. Hector

Okay this is hearsay but from a usually reliable source who agrees it was done for protection and to keep the hair out of one's face, when they were done they cut the entire thing off and grew it new... or left it off which eventually lead to the shorter hair styles during the early 1800s. Do not quote me on this but it might help you to track more information down regarding tarred hair.... Hector