MasterGunsmith

Elena, I think you might be doing yourself and your writing a disservice by dismissing rifles and muskets as the same thing.

Rifles have grooves inside the barrel to put a spin on the shot to give better range and accuracy. 300 meters sounds like rifle range, not musket range. Muskets had barrels with smooth insides, and hence much shorter range. Rifles did not become common until after about the 1740s (they were exceptionally rare prior to that but existed going back to the 1660s (?)).

Thank you very much for clearing it up. I understand it now. Michael, my problem is first one of... understanding the fineries. I mean, I have read some things in English, but not being my mother tongue, I see no difference when there are subtle differences. Until recently I saw no difference between beautiful and handsome, for example, I said beautiful for a man too.

Torsten Link's book "Flintlock" which can be found at many publishers clearance stores (think Half Price Books if you have one locally) and second hand book stores has some good information about the development of the rifle, and lots of good information about 17th and early 18th century muskets. You can usually find the book for under $10 in trade paperback.

Yes, in US Here no chance... What's free available online, it's good...

The easiest way i've found to explain the differance of musket vs rifle accuracy/ range to compair the two with a football and baseball.

Although you can throw a baseball well it still has a tendancey to move up/down or side/side making it less accurate and shorter range. where as the football spins while it flies it has a more stable/predictabe tajectory as well as longer rang then a baceball.

The musket ball bounces around the walls of the bore of the musket, having the effect of the baseball.

The rifle has spiral grooves in the bore causing the tight fitting cloth wrapped ball to spin, just as the football does.

BTW, I am refering to American football not socer

The idea is to only make small qty at a time no more then a pound at a time. I do not shoot my cannon at events just shoot blanks with it (salutes) on my property.

I agree that to the novice, this can be dangerous, I have done it before, and I have also handled far more dangerous explosives (HE) while in the military. I know how to handle it safely and with all the respect it deserves.

Also no I do not make it in the house.

I also live out in the boonies far from neighbors.

I quess y'all missed the point of this post, what I was asking was if anyone knew a good distributor of good quality/pure ingredients.

I used to make my own powder several years ago when I was realy into shooting black powder firearms. Then I whent a spell of using mostly modern smokeless firearms, so there was no reason to make it anymore, considering a 1lb can of goex would last me a whole year.

Now that I'm back into black powder, and have a cannon I thought it would be a good to start doing it again.

If you would feel better not disscusing such matters on this forum I would understand, and would be willing to post of it no more.

The Max without license according to the ATF is 50lbs

Thanks for all your concern, and comments.

I am wanting to start making my own powder now that I have a cannon to feed(goex is far to expensive).

were is a good source for quality ingredients ie Sulfur, Kno3, etc..

I know there are many ways to get them, but would like to know were the most reputable places to get them.

I'd also be interested in hearing your favorite recipes.

Stone Wall Creek also sells the kits for $875.00

http://www.stonewall...lunderbuss-kit/

Ahoy,

I am a Proud US Army Vet, as well as a certified Gunsmith (specialized in antique and muzzleloading firearms, but can work on everything), and a history buff.

As of now I only do Civil War Reenacting/Living History, but I am wanting to get involved in other time periods as well (F&I, Revolutionary, Pirate, Mountian Man, Etc...).

would it be accurate to paint the carriage or stain it for a period Military gun. I thought it might be cool to paint in period writing on the side of it my old Unit from the Army 'C 6th BN 37th FA' 'Warlords', sort of as a tribute to my Battle Buddy's. just a thought.

"Iron Sam Kidd" Tis Mine.

Oy Mates,

I have a 1/2 scale Napoleon Barrel on order from Hern Iron Works, and I wish to make a Naval Carriage for it.

I was wondering if any of Ye have Built one before? It seemes pretty straight forward, but I would love to get some pointers from someone that has built one already.

I have been considering using railroad ties for the wood, as they are solid and have a well ued antique look.

Any advice would be awesome.

Cheers Mates!

Very nice images, and I will agree with John and Bo.

I also have one, slightly modified to backdate it.

Brass tipped wooden ramrod, thinned out the stock at the muzzle, added a belt hook.

Mine suffers from a weak mainspring. I had a gunsmith take a look and was told it couldn't be repaired.

Not sure I believe that.

But something else to be aware of.

Nice find!

Oy Mate,

I do believe that Gunsmith head must be full of seaweed to turn down such an Easy job. All you need to do, is the following to retemper thine Mainspring:

1. Ye must heat thine Mainspring till it be glowin a nice cherry red or orange, then emediatly quench it in water (this will reharden it, it now needs to be tempered).

2. Polish thine Mainspring, the shinier the better (this will aid in the tempering pocess bellow).

3. There be two ways to go about the tempering of thine Mainspring, I shalt tell thee both ways.

a. Cook in heat treating oven at 850 degree F until thine spring turns light Blue in color, then emediatly quench in motor oil. Or,

b. Fill the bottom of a tin can with sand, placing thine spring on top of the sand, and place can on top of a fire (the sand will distribute the heat evenly over thine spring). watch for thine spring to turn light Blue in color, then emediatly quench in motor oil (this way takes a little longer then a oven, but is simple and effective).

Thats it, I hope this can be of some help to thee.

Cheers Mate!

Very nice images, and I will agree with John and Bo.

I also have one, slightly modified to backdate it.

Brass tipped wooden ramrod, thinned out the stock at the muzzle, added a belt hook.

Mine suffers from a weak mainspring. I had a gunsmith take a look and was told it couldn't be repaired.

Not sure I believe that.

But something else to be aware of.

Nice find!

Oy Mate,

I do believe that Gunsmith head must be full of seaweed to turn down such an Easy job. All you need to do, is the following to retemper thine Mainspring:

1. Ye must heat thine Mainspring till it be glowin a nice cherry red or orange, then emediatly quench it in water (this will reharden it, it now needs to be tempered).

2. Polish thine Mainspring, the shinier the better (this will aid in the tempering pocess bellow).

3. There be two ways to go about the tempering of thine Mainspring, I shalt tell thee both ways.

a. Cook in heat treating oven at 850 degree F until thine spring turns light Blue in color, then emediatly quench in motor oil. Or,

b. Fill the bottom of a tin can with sand, placing thine spring on top of the sand, and place can on top of a fire (the sand will distribute the heat evenly over thine spring). watch for thine spring to turn light Blue in color, then emediatly quench in motor oil (this way takes a little longer then a oven, but is simple and effective).

Thats it, I hope this can be of some help to thee.

Cheers Mate!