marlinspike

first... find a good local homebrew shop. They will be able to help you with any questions that may arise during the process. second... get a copy of John Palmer's How To Brew For equipment you will need the following: At least one fermenter (two would be better, but not really necessary.) A bottling bucket (can double as a fermenter- that is how I use mine) A four gallon stock pot Two cases of bottles, or a keg system A hydrometer to calculate ABV A thermometer A Racking cane and tubing And a bottle filling wand Most of this is all available in kit form - except for the stock pot and thermometer A banjo burner/turkey fryer if you don’t want to brew in your kitchen For your first brew I would suggest an extract kit, they are easy to brew, don’t take a whole lot of time, and produce fairly good beers. The important thing to know is not to go overboard – The process is as complicated as you want to make it. Have fun!

How about plumbing small "non-functioning" barrels for taps from hidden kegs?

Very cool! But now I have mallet envy.

Thanks to all, M.A.d'Dogge, I am in Pennsylvania - in the Northeast quadrant. CaptainB- My Captain, I just put a case of "Bo'sun's Mate IPA" in the cellar to age next to a "100 Korun Pilsener", "MacBeth's Robust Porter", and the last of last summer's "Uncle Sam's Pale Ale."

http://seasidetreasures.com/Bells/Brass_Bells.htm - has some nice looking bells, from cheap (I wouldn't mind ruining with a patina medium) to over $500 (eek). http://www.greenboatstuff.com/rotwco.html - for hemp line and cordage - however, a cheaper alternative would be to use manila from your local hardware store. Just soak it in water a couple of times to get the kerosene smell out of it. I think I paid less than $.50 a foot for one inch twist for a photo shoot - compared to two bucks for hemp.

Admiralty models and charts are a must. I would add deck prisms for lighting, some ratlines, and powder kegs for tables. And if it was for me – a cedar or teak bar top caulked with oakum, a ship's bell (tarnished), lots of #12 cotton duck and hemp line, and a Geoff Hunt print or two.

Right, but were they knowingly conserving it? I don't think they were. They were saving it as beer/wine/bread, the link between fermentation and saccharomyces wasn’t established until the 1860s. Until Pasteur isolated and propagated it - and even after I'm sure - brewers pitched small quantities of previous batches into freshly boiled wort to start the fermentation - just as starters are used in sourdough bread. That, plus open fermenters were used so wild yeast most likely entered the fray. But, I am getting too far off topic. I have a couple questions. 1) How are you using the bottles? Just for transportation/drinking pre-carbonated brews? - or - are you going to bottle and carbonate in them? 2) Are you looking for honest to God, true to the period, complete with maker’s mark bottles – or will modern bottles with the right shape work? found this, thought it might be useful... http://www.sha.org/research_resources/documents/Cylindrical%20English%20Wine%20and%20Beer%20Bottles%20-%20English.pdf P.S. Thank you Thank you Thank you for the proper Citation

Thanks, wish I could take credit for the illustration, found it on a royalty free site. I did just today find out who the artist was - so I will be adding it somewhere. I did "paint in" the signal flags and canvas texture. Will have to think about posting the recipe... haven't really tasted it yet, smells great though . I may post the ingredients - if I like the taste. Brewing it for a competition, grand prize is having it brewed by the Swashbuckler Brewing Company here in PA.

Absolutely Love this!

Two new labels for a new batch I'm getting ready to bottle.

ummm, hope I am not stepping on anyone's toes here... I would be a bit weary of this. first of all, there are a few references to yeast with dates prior to 1676 - the year it was discovered by Anton van Leeuwenhoek. Plus, yeast wasn't linked to the brewing process until Pasteur's discoveries in the 1860s. Then it talks about skimming the yeast off the top before bottling - that is not yeast, it is krausun; basically just foam. By the time beer is ready to bottle/keg the majority of the yeast is on the bottom of the fermenter. Also... "In the 1700-1800s, "the terms 'Ale', 'Porter', 'Beer', 'Stout', or 'Lager' meant neither more nor less than 'Beer' fermented at varying temperatures, and clarified naturally by a shorter or longer after-fermentation." So totally not true that it is almost insulting to the brewing industry. Yes lagers are cold fermented and aged, but Porters and Stouts are ales. The difference between the terms Ale, Porter, and Stout is that porters and stouts are made with roasted grains. Originally porters were a blend of several ales, and are only relatively recently their own style. Beer was never brewed for long term storage; once tapped, the kegs would go sour within a week if not consumed. Again, not trying to step on toes here, I am just doubtful of the accuracy of articles with so many errors. As for bottles being around; probably some - but I doubt there would be any in great numbers. Like it was already said, they were hand blown into molds. Anyone who has tried or seen glass being blown can tell you: it takes a bloody long time - and time = expensive.

Thanks guys. sailrite is about on par with Am. Rope&Tar so I guess there is no way around it. Silas, the only thing I don't like about tarring after the fact is that I am needle hitching some glass bottles and the untarred marline won't grab or tighten around the glass. Thanks again from a fellow Thatcher.

Rooster on the front of one ankle, Pig on the front of the other. Was waiting to hit the 5000 N. Mile mark to get a sparrow/swallow, but... can't wait anymore - going for it this summer . Waiting to "Cross the LIne" before I get my sea turtle... that one I will NOT rush.

Just found the site and am happy to be aboard. I’m a photographer by profession, an amateur brewer, and a novice boatbuilder surrounded by land (hopefully moving to RI soon to study full time.) Fair winds and following seas to all

Beautiful work! If you are interested, check out Hervey Garrett Smith’s Marlinspike Sailor. He has a nice breakdown of how the Beckets are made. Really nothing more than built up parceling covered with coachwhipping.