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Now for the Mantua...


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Lovely! Just a few things to help you and the Misses out

This time period is known for the number of 'layers' and 'positioning' of garments.

Just a few things that need repositioning here:

1. Pull the fabric forward (from the back - over the shoulders) and make sure the fabric lays properly on top of the shoulders...then;

2. Draw the fronts of the Mantua closer in the front. The fronts should fall right in line at the center of her areolas ( Shocking!). This will give the whole outfit the look of being properly centered;

3. I would reposition the "ties" and place them higher on her hips. I think if the 'ties' were repositioned, the skirt fabric would fold back just so and give that pleated look.

4. She could belt it! Belt your Mantua with ribbon, silk or even a woven belt of hemp!

Hope these suggestions help you two out. Have fun...you're really looking great!

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Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

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Here it is!

progression thread


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

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  • 1 year later...
Well fine then! :blink::P

Don't take it personal... My posts were an attempt to divert a discussion on another thread to a thread I thought was more appropirately titled... My attempt failed, and the conversation is now best left where it was. Were you expecting some inappropriate comments amount your wife? Or perhaps a critique on your excellent handiwork? I can do either or both if you would like! :P

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Thats ok. I'm way too bored at work. :blink:

You and me both.... The work volumes here have gone th way of the dodo... And of course I am too new here to take time off until things pick up... So I am left twiddling my thumbs trying to look busy and important.... :P

If I didn't have the pub as a refuge for amusement, I would be stark raving mad with boredom.

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Well fine then! :P:P

Don't take it personal... My posts were an attempt to divert a discussion on another thread to a thread I thought was more appropirately titled... My attempt failed, and the conversation is now best left where it was. Were you expecting some inappropriate comments amount your wife? Or perhaps a critique on your excellent handiwork? I can do either or both if you would like! :P

:blink: You mean she didn't see? Oh look, a bird ~

:P

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Where is this progression thread that Captain Sterling speaks of. I can't seem to find it and the links on here aren't working. Hoping to save myself a lot of time and trouble by doing as much homework as i can before I start sewing. Thanks for your help, please!

Nell

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Ambrose Bierce

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Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

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Your awesome!! <_< Thanks

I wanted to peak at that thread because I thought you might have pictures of works as they progress. I've found seeing the progress of a piece to be really educational. .Some of the links that Kate Souris gave me had some easy petticoat instructions and I've made skirts without patterns before it was just a matter of understanding how the waist ties were made. It doesn't look too difficult.

I actually have a great pattern for a chemise, seems perfectly fine to me, unless you feel otherwise. Simplicities Fashion Historian 7215, I've taken a few shortcuts with the neckline ie using a draw string rather than a fitted neckline. Only problem is I used cotton and it should probably be linen, am I right? I will probably make a couple with different sleeve lengths in linen.

Redarding the mantua, I had no intention of starting one yet, not until I've finished my stays and some PC clothes for Chrispy as well. I'm not really sure a mantua is something that Nell would wear anyway. I don't think it suits her character she''s far too "informal" (<---trying to be PC in another way)

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“PIRACY, n. Commerce without its folly-swaddles, just as God made it.”

Ambrose Bierce

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I will probably make a couple with different sleeve lengths in linen.

Redarding the mantua, I had no intention of starting one yet, not until I've finished my stays and some PC clothes for Chrispy as well. I'm not really sure a mantua is something that Nell would wear anyway. I don't think it suits her character she''s far too "informal" (<---trying to be PC in another way)

Regarding shifts/chemises... Cotton did exist in the GAoP, but it was still fairly rare, so while it can be PC, linen is the better choice as (in my opinion) mostly only the fabulously wealthy would have worn cotton, while everyone (rich and poor) would have worn linen. Also, I find linen breathes better than cotton in the hot weather... but that may just be me.

As for the mantua, if you get a chance, do a search in the "Captain's Twill" section of the pub for the "Cryes of London"... They are basically a bunch of drawings/sketches of good ol' working class folks from the period (and other periods as well), but you will see some women in mantuas that are only knee length... Nice and easy to get around in because they don't get in the way like the longer ones do. Think of the mantua as a robe that is worn for all occassions, with longer fancier ones in pretty fabrics for balls, and shorter ones in more basic fabrics for doing work in, and everything in between.

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Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

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cotton or Indian calicos were also outlawed for sale in England, twice...they were shipped for sale to the colonies I believe though...the main problem being, the cheap cottons in the stores today, well we aren't too sure they were like the indian calicos of the early 18th century...

I have been speaking with a fabric historian about GAoP calicoes ~ they are not at all like what we see in the stores. The patterns actually looked more like our modern chintz, with a light background. It wasn't until later that the Indian calicoes were made with darker backgrounds, as requested by the Europeans.

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This may be helpful, for those interested in Indian calico ~

http://www.demodecouture.com/cotton/

The Reproduction fabrics are Expensive ~ it is not uncommon to see them listed between $8 and $30 a Yard.

Further reading

http://www.musee-impression.com/gb/collection/xviii.html

Note that Small Designs appear in the last quarter of the 18th Century.

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Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Afternoon Everyone!

Mary brought up a good question regarding the use of erime fur for non-royals. I did find some interesting discussion on this topic in old sumptuary laws during the Middle Ages. And once again, these rules were reinforced during the time of Queen Elizabeth I.

It was then during the English Civil War that fashion took a more dramatic change of simple, and less flash.

But after the time of the Roundheads and Charles the II reclaiming his rightful place upon the thrown, the fanciful dress of court was reclaimed. It was also during this time the 'middle-sort' started to 'ape their betters' in appearence. It became very difficult to enforce the old sumptuary laws during this time...Just like the Stuart's burial-rites, the middle class ignored the laws.

So, to sum it up. Cheeky CAN wear erime...for she'd wants to make sure those of her class-status and the court class knows that she's all that...and a BIG Bag of Chips.

Edited by Cheeky Actress

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Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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I would have thought that the very existance of a fashion plate that (in my eyes) quite clearly displays someone who is not labelled as a royal wearing ermine would clear all that up... But going back to out of date sumptuary laws and then going through the rise and fall of the parliamentarians backs it up I guess. :rolleyes:

Okay, I guess the fashion plate is French, and the conversation was relating to England, so I can see how one would want to verify prevenance in the different context...

Edited by michaelsbagley
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