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You guys are incorrigible!

Okay. The quick and dirty. For beginners. Nothing deep.

Shirts -- typically white. Can be checked blue and white or another colour and white. Never a solid colour.

{Okay. There are "blew" shirts mentioned in inventories, but they aren't nearly as prevalent as white. White is the default colour and therefore the safest choice.}

Waistcoats, jackets, frock coats, breeches -- brown, grey (charcoal and dove), blue, red, green, yellow, tan and variants of these. Avoid black (it's expensive) and bright colours. Something that looks like it's had the "shine" taken out is best. White is a bad idea too. Stick with solid colours. Striped waistcoats and breeches are known, but be conservative.

Tops and bottoms do not have to match, colourwise. They do not even have to "go together" in the modern sense. So wear a blue jacket with red breeches -- it's cool! Dressing yourself in coordinating shades of blue just will look wrong...

Slops and trousers -- canvas coloured. That's hemp canvas, so tannish grey. Or "sail colour".

Kerchiefs -- any colour

Stockings -- any colour

I think that's it. Foxe?

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Building an Empire... one prickety stitch at a time!

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oh oh , I'll get into color! :lol:

Linen is a bear to dye even with modern fiber reactive dyes. It's got to be the difference between the cell fibers vs. the protein fibers from wool or silk. Natural dying is already labor intensive process. Add the possibility that the color won't take or will set wrong. Then remember that items like shirts were the few that were washed frequently which would tax the dye even more & it's just easier to leave linen white! Plus that big round thing that comes up in the morning does a great job of bleaching linen when you hang it out to dry.

Also don't forget the redying mentality. Jacket needs a refresh, toss it in the dye pot. Redying will hide the stains, refresh the color and tada you've got a "new" jacket without all the work & expense of making a new one. But that also results in more muted colors as the different layers work together.

Kass, didn't I read somewhere where you said the weight of GAoP canvas & modern canvas were different. Ours is usually 9oz but what about in period? Or am I halucinating again?

"If part of the goods be plundered by a pirate the proprietor or shipmaster is not entitled to any contribution." An introduction to merchandize, Robert Hamilton, 1777

Slightly Obsessed, an 18th Century reenacting blog

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I think you're halucinating again, sweetie. :lol: I don't know the weight of GAoP canvas. And modern canvas comes in a variety of weights too. The composition of modern canvas (usually cotton) and period canvas (typically hempen) is different though, but you knew that. :)

Are you sure I wasn't talking about osnabrig? Period osnabrig is totally different from the stuff you get in uphostery shops today.

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Building an Empire... one prickety stitch at a time!

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Additionally, the Admiralty Slop specs for 1690, 1699, and 1702 include blue shirts at 3s 6d. The 1690 set also include blue neckcloths.

Foxe

"With this Fore-Staff he fansies he does Wonders, when, God knows, it amounts to no more but only to solve that simple Question, Where are we? Which every chi'd in London can tell you." - Ned Ward The Wooden World Dissected, 1707


ETFox.co.uk

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I think you're halucinating again, sweetie. :lol:

Knew I shouldn't have been sampling the chocolate rum balls I was baking today. :lol:

"If part of the goods be plundered by a pirate the proprietor or shipmaster is not entitled to any contribution." An introduction to merchandize, Robert Hamilton, 1777

Slightly Obsessed, an 18th Century reenacting blog

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Incorrigible, you say?

My dear, flattery will get you EVERYWHERE! B)

Now if I could only get some ninja socks to go along with the rest of my pyrat gear. B)

On a serious note, Kass. I want to thank you for the effort you put in here. I know you must be busy with "The Company". Let alone, try to educate poor saps like me.

It's very much appreciated.

That goes t' all ye other scurvy buggers, too! B)

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You will be flogged. And God willing, come morning, you will be flogged some more.

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not to be a pain and perhaps this should go elsewhere but will broadclothe do in some aspects of female costume? or do i need ot recomnsider tot eh afore mentioned choices o clothe

Mud Slinging Pyromanic , Errrrrr Ship's Potter at ye service

Vagabond's Rogue Potter Wench

First Mate of the Fairge Iolaire

Me weapons o choice be lots o mud, sharp pointy sticks, an string

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Okay, by "broadcloth" do you mean real wool broadcloth or cotton broadcloth?

Wool broadcloth is one of the most appropriate fabrics you can find. It's just perfect for nearly everything, male and female.

Cotton broadcloth is crap. You'll spend hours and hours making your kit only to have it tear the first time you wear it. Or the colour will fade. Or it won't hang right.

Start with the right stuff, Salty. You know from your pottery work that if you use poor clay, your pots won't be any good. Same thing with fabric. Your first outfit is going to feel like it took you forever to make it. Might as well make it out of good stuff.

:lol:

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Building an Empire... one prickety stitch at a time!

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Thanks much kass....... yes as a newbie to sewing i was thinkin on cotton broadclothe but the wool would work better and i will track down some o that

:lol: mud be one thing cloth quite another

Mud Slinging Pyromanic , Errrrrr Ship's Potter at ye service

Vagabond's Rogue Potter Wench

First Mate of the Fairge Iolaire

Me weapons o choice be lots o mud, sharp pointy sticks, an string

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Don't forget linen Saltypots. It's cheaper than wool, similar in weight to the cotton broadcloth you were thinking of and just about the nicest feeling fabric on the planet. I hear if you get it from Fabric-store.com and tell them Kass sent you it adds to her empire.

"If part of the goods be plundered by a pirate the proprietor or shipmaster is not entitled to any contribution." An introduction to merchandize, Robert Hamilton, 1777

Slightly Obsessed, an 18th Century reenacting blog

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