Topstitching question for Kass

[Tar Bucket Bill]

Kass, and anyone else who knows,

What kind of stitch was used to topstitch around pocket flaps and other sewn-together pieces? Or were they topstitched at all?

My friend put together a waistcoat for me and told me I will need to topstitch around the pocket flaps, down the front, etc. He just suggested a running stitch -- one row.

Is there a different stitch or anything I should consider instead that would be authentic?

Thank you in advance.

Tar Bucket Bill [definetly a novice when it comes to sewing]

[kass]

Hi Bill,

Well, what was done on extant clothing of the period isn't exactly topstitching. You can fake it by doing a row of running stitch (or better yet, backstitch) about 3mm from the edge of the pocket flaps, fronts, etc. But it's not how it was done in the period in question.

What was done is called "point rabattre sous le main" or what modern tailors call "prick stitch". Prick stitch is a way to attach the lining to the outer material at the same time giving a topstitched, sharp edge.

You see, topstitching looks alright from the outside, but it looks the same underneath, and it kinds tends to make your edges curl outwards. You don't want that...

Prick stitch looks like a running stitch or backstitch on the top but a blind stitch or small tacking stitch underneath. It's almost invisible! So it doesn't pull your coat edges all out of whack.

Lemme see if I can find a picture of one of my coats with prick stitched edges...

This is a little blurry, but maybe you can make out what I mean here:

Does that help or did I completely confuse you?

[kass]

oops!

[Tar Bucket Bill]

Thank you for the excellent explaination.

I think I know what you mean.

You barely catch the material underneath the top layer of material? And is this type of stitch strong enough to take abuse without those little tack stitches popping loose?

Would you happen to know of a diagram for this prick stitch too?

Tar Bucket Bill

[kass]

Right in one, Bill! You understand perfectly.

Lemme see... Diargam, diagram...

Okay, here's one working from the inside of the lining:

Yes no?

[Tar Bucket Bill]

Fantastic Kass!

Your instructions and diagram help a great deal.

Thank you VERY much.

Tar Bucket Bill

[kass]

You're very welcome, Bill. Don't forget to post pictures of your new waistcoat!

[Capt Grey]

*Ponders the enormous amount of time required to stitch around the coat. *

[kass]

It's a very quick stitch, Captain Grey. It really only takes a couple of hours or so. It's mindless, sitting-in-front-of-the-TV work. :)

[Capt Grey]

That's true.

I've been doing a group Star Wars costuming project (turning 12 military shirts into vests and making bibs/plaquets from Navy workshirts) that involves a lot of seam ripping. I just plop in front of the tube and rip away.

[Tar Bucket Bill]

One more question Kass --- regarding thread color for this prick stitch.

I see by your photos that you used a thread color that matches the pattern color in the material.

My waistcoat is a deep dark olive wool [except for a natural linen back]. Would it be improper to use a natural linen hand sewing thread for the prick stitch around the edges? The light colored thread would probably stand out against the dark wool. Not sure if that's improper or not for the time period or what was common back then.

Tar Bucket Bill

[kass]

It's not improper at all, Bill. On the coat you saw, I used a matching thread. But on my husband's olive green coat, I'm using a tan silk thread to match his buttonholes. Very contrasty...

And natural linen thread is NEVER a bad choice!

[Capt. Sterling]

*Ponders the enormous amount of time required to stitch around the coat. *

once you get the hang of it, you'd be surprised how quickly prick stitching can be done... I'm addicted to it!!!