Cutlass, Cutlass, who's got the Cutlass

[Mr. Hawker]

Ok so after emailing Old Dominion forge and being told that they are not taking sword orders due to a two year back-order log, What else do you have? I mean they look like good swords but logisitcally I dont want to wait two years before I get another cutlass. What I need this cutlass for is not just some pretty show piece. I actually need a functional cutlass that I cant fight with. I am in a stage combat group that requires a high quality sword for functional use. Any ideas?

[Barbossa II]

I have a 1971 Cutlass convertible...

Seriously though... the best place for real use swords is deltin... not cheap... but they are the best in the World.

Barbossa II

[John_Young]

Depends... are you looking for fight quality? Or just a hip hanger?

Check eBay for Cutlasses, the pretty but useless kind. Prices vary.

Museum Replicas has a couple good fight quality ones.

Then Starfire has a good fight quality one and it will cost you a pretty penny.

[blackjohn]

If you are just looking for something to fight with, go to popinj's.

http://www.popinj.com/cutlasses.htm

[Mr. Hawker]

Yeah,

I am looking for fight quality. I have been checking out Badger Blades and Popinj(now) but anyone have any others?

[BoneHunterLane]

http://www.armsofvalour.com/miva/merchant....Category_Code=P

I just don't know if it is fight ready. I've had good luck with this company.

[Mr. Hawker]

Actually I want to warn EVERYONE away from this sword if you plan to do any stage combat. I bought it and it was fine for a couple of fights but the blade ended up turning into a saw blade and the cage broke. So unless you are using it only for the purpose of being pretty, i wouldnt recommend this sword at all.

[John_Young]

Funny. I've owned that sword for about 2 years now and no problems.

Blades nick. Even on an expensive Starfire sword.

But if you are fighting balls to the wall, sword slamming and not proper casting then of course it will break.

[Monterey Jack]

Try Scott Wilson at www.darkwoodarmory.com.

He just made my matched set of Dutch hanger and dirk circa 1690 and its comparable or better than Old Dominion; plus he can make it fully functional (sharp) or stage combat grade. He'll also customize something for you.

His cutlasses aren't up on the site yet, but trust me he can get the job done.

[Mr. Hawker]

Oh, I am aware that blades nick in combat, I have been doing it for the better part of 7 years. However compared to other blades I have used, this blade held up like playdoh. I have two starfires that have their fair share of battle scars but they are some of the best weapons I have ever used. Now if yours is still together and looks lovely, more power to you. However I just want to warn people from my experience that this sword is not the highest quality I have found.

Thank you for the links to the other sites, I will check them out.

[Billy Flynt]

http://www.armsofvalour.com/miva/merchant....Category_Code=P

I just don't know if it is fight ready. I've had good luck with this company.

I have this same sword that I bought from Loyalist Arms of Canada. I had to have the basket welded to the blade but it is a great fight sword. Loyalist has it cheaper too.

It is also very heavy to swing. It will give you a workout.

Bf

[callenish gunner]

i too have a couple of those from loyalist .....much better price only used them for some minor combat scenes and they held up quite well

[Jag]

I have to agree with Monterey Jack about Scott Wilson at Darkwood. He made a custom cutlass for me as well, and it's held up to some serious bouting (full on fighitng, not stage combat).

Adam at PoppinJ also does excellent work. We've used his cutlasses in the maritime weapons seminars and they hold up well.

Most of the weapons out there are not fight quality. Del Tins are generally good and hold up. However, most swordsmiths who make high quality, fight ready weapons don't make cutlasses, so you will most likely have to go with a custom job (except for PoppinJ).

Also, if you have a hilt you really, really like but the blade is not "battle worthy", you can send it to Adam at PoppinJ to have it refitted with a better blade.

And you guys have GOT to see Monterey Jack's custom set from Darkwood! It was all I could do to keep from whacking him with an axe and stealing it, but I just couldn't do it since he's my friend. (That, and the fact that he's damn good at using it!)

[Sir Beachem Quick]

Aye, here's a sweet sight me found after days and days of googling.

http://weaponsofchoicetheatrical.com/

priced right for any sailors wages. be sure to view out the sales side.

[Phillip Black]

Barbossa II - My family's got one too! What's the color? Ours is Burnt Sienna...looks kinda orange. I wish my dad had bought the 442, but the insurance for a single male under 25 in Chicago for the 442 was too much at that time, so he had to settle for the Cutlass. Still, what better car is there for a pirate than a Cutlass!?

I'm looking for a nice cutlass as well, some of these sites look good, thanks for all the tips everyone!

[Sir Beachem Quick]

Here's a sweet peice of work, Not too excited about the scabbard thoughCutlass

[Phillip Black]

It's a nice touch that they offer an engraving service too. I'd like to get an old looking cutlass...not an antique necessarily, but something gritty looking. I like how this one looks: http://www.a2armory.com/picusw.html

But, I'd prefer one that comes with a scabbard and won't snap if I swing it in the air...

Anyone have any ideas? Besides Old Dominion who's got a backlog longer than Harley Davidson.

[Cut-throat]

I actually own that sword you posted Phillip. Yeah, not having a scabbard is a downside, but it will definately not break when you swing it in the air. It is made of carbon steel. It is battle ready if you want to sharpen it. The tip of the blade is what I like best. 2 inches from the top, the back of the blade is tapered to be sharpened as well. Nice little pig-sticker. :)

I think you would like the rusty finish if you are after the gritty look.

[Monterey Jack]

It's a nice touch that they offer an engraving service too. I'd like to get an old looking cutlass...not an antique necessarily, but something gritty looking. I like how this one looks: http://www.a2armory.com/picusw.html

You can get that very same one (by the way its British 1780) on eBay from Grendel's cave for about $50. They're imports and some are great, some not so much, depending on how long they've had them around.

They are about 2 pounds heavier than the originals, but most put up with a lot of abuse.

I have two, and they are just rustic enough to draw a fair bit of attention.

[callenish gunner]

i have several of those cutlasses and it depends on the individual piece as to the weight ...i have three that are heavy at about 3.8 lbs and some just over 2.5 ....and making scabbards for them is fairly easy but since they are forged in small family forges in india each piece is different so the scabbards must be one of's ... and i have used them for some serious stage combat sessions and they have held up well

[Phillip Black]

Thank ye kindly, Cut-throat, Monteray Jack, and Callenish! I think ye just made me mind for me

Now, can anyone tell me how I'd be going about making a scabbard for it?

[Monterey Jack]

Thank ye kindly, Cut-throat, Monteray Jack, and Callenish! I think ye just made me mind for me

Now, can anyone tell me how I'd be going about making a scabbard for it?

You can pick up a piece of 8 oz vegetable tanned leather from a leather shop (not chrome-tanned as it can corrode the blade). Trace the outline of the blade, adding about a quarter inch or a little more to allow the blade to move freely. Flip the blade over and do the same to that side.

Cut both pieces out and punch holes evenly down the side about an eighth inch apart. You can do this with an awl or with a thinging chisel and a mallet. Get a harness needle (about #00) and waxed linen thread (or waxed nylon, but linen is easier to use) and sew 'er up.

The veg-tan leather is a natural colour, so you'll need to dye it whatever colour you choose with Feibings or Lincoln leather dye.

Mind you, if the blade is sharp you'll need to add in a strip of leather along that side so the blade doesn't cut thru yer stitiching when you pull it free.

Up at the throat you can also install a button-stud, or "Sam Brown" button so that the scabbard can pop into a slot in a belt frog.

Make sense? I may have left out some minor details, but I think that's the basics. I make about 8 of these a year for folks I perform with.

If you're short on leather and tools, drop a note to:

www.oregonleatherco.com

[Monterey Jack]

i have several of those cutlasses and it depends on the individual piece as to the weight ...i have three that are heavy at about 3.8 lbs and some just over 2.5 ....and making scabbards for them is fairly easy but since they are forged in small family forges in india each piece is different so the scabbards must be one of's ... and i have used them for some serious stage combat sessions and they have held up well

True; I have had two and one, though too heavy for my liking had held up well. The other had a grip that was rotted thru and fell away from the tang. A friend of mine bought one that had the tang so corroded it broke off in the grip. Its too bad you can't tell what your getting til its in your hands.

[Monterey Jack]

Forgot to add that the throat of the scabbard needs to be as wide as the widest part of the blade. You'd think that was a no-brainer, but it happens all the time with folks making their first few scabbards.

[Phillip Black]

Monterey Jack, I am in your debt! I've just bought one from Grendel's cave, so hopefully I'll get a decent one...no rotted or broken ones... crosses fingers and prays to the god of dirty old cutlasses. The leatherwork link looks great, and thanks for the tips! I think it will be pretty interesting to make a scabbard...I can customize it too!