Pedersoli Queen Ann Kit

[Mick MacAnselan]

Started working on my queen ann kit today. When the tang screw gets most of the way through the stock, it's at just enough off of 90 degrees from the top of the barrel that the cylindrical head of the screw won't go into the recessed seat in the barrel. I'm think about using a round file to widen the hole in the stock, but I worry about this, since the tang screw is what holds the barrel to the stock, and don't want it to be 'loose'. I'm assuming we want an 'interference fit' here. Anyone else have this problem? TIA.

[Mick MacAnselan]

Okay, nevermind. Once I realized that the trigger plate was going to have to align with the tang screw as well as the screw recess in the barrel, I also realized that the hole was going to have to be enlarged with a drill bit to get enough 'play' to allow alignment.

Now the whole thing is together except for the trigger guard, which is going to have to be bent pretty far to fit. Guess I'll disassemble, sand and finish the stock, reassemble, and bend the trigger guard. And I thought this was going to be an quick project. I suppose it would have been easier with instructions written by an English speaker and actually for the same pistol.

[Captain Jim]

Beware of the triggergaurd bend! It will break! Somewhere on this board is a discussion of what others did to alleviate the problem. I'll see if I can find it. Meanwhile, ye be warned!

[Captain Jim]

Queen Anne thread.

I see you've been to that one before.

But to elaborate, anneal the guard by heating and quenching in water. Yes, that is the opposite of iron and steel. To harden, heat again and let cool slowly. Careful, though, as you can melt brass with a torch. Too hot and ye will have a glob where the bend was supposed to go. Polish to restore color. Go make loud noises.

[Cascabel]

I have built several of these kits, and never had a problem with the trigger guard, or had to anneal it.

The last one I built was a couple of years back, but unless they have changed the trigger guard casting in some way since then, you should not have to bend it at all. The trick is to seat the REAR end of the guard FIRST, and then pull back on the front of the guard as if pulling the trigger. It will flex slightly, and the front will snap neatly in to place in the inlet.

Of course, if they have made changes to the castings, this info will not apply.

>>>>> Cascabel

[Mick MacAnselan]

I have built several of these kits, and never had a problem with the trigger guard, or had to anneal it.

The last one I built was a couple of years back, but unless they have changed the trigger guard casting in some way since then, you should not have to bend it at all. The trick is to seat the REAR end of the guard FIRST, and then pull back on the front of the guard as if pulling the trigger. It will flex slightly, and the front will snap neatly in to place in the inlet.

Of course, if they have made changes to the castings, this info will not apply.

>>>>> Cascabel

I think the casting must have changed. Or maybe they have more than one, since some have had problems and others haven't. Mine will definitely need to be bent (at first I thought the solution might be as you described, but it's not the case). In two places. First in the spot some others have had a problem with, and second, the short curved piece that sits behind ('parallel to') the trigger is bent forward and 'down' so that it interferes with the trigger. If it were just the rear end, I could probably just gently bend it with a hammer, but the piece behind the trigger is just too hard to get a 'swing' at (no room). I think I'll have to anneal it.

[Cascabel]

I have built several of these kits, and never had a problem with the trigger guard, or had to anneal it.

    The last one I built was a couple of years back, but unless they have changed the trigger guard casting in some way since then, you should not have to bend it at all.  The trick is to seat the REAR end of the guard FIRST, and then pull back on the front of the guard as if pulling the trigger.  It will flex slightly, and the front will snap neatly in to place in the inlet. 

Of course, if they have made changes to the castings, this info will not apply. 

                                            >>>>> Cascabel

I think the casting must have changed. Or maybe they have more than one, since some have had problems and others haven't. Mine will definitely need to be bent (at first I thought the solution might be as you described, but it's not the case). In two places. First in the spot some others have had a problem with, and second, the short curved piece that sits behind ('parallel to') the trigger is bent forward and 'down' so that it interferes with the trigger. If it were just the rear end, I could probably just gently bend it with a hammer, but the piece behind the trigger is just too hard to get a 'swing' at (no room). I think I'll have to anneal it.

You may find that the easiest and best solution is to trim the short curved section a bit. I have also found that the trigger is a bit too long on most of these. and needs to be shortened about 1/8", so as not to drag on the inside of the trigger guard bow. You will usually also find that you need to sharpen the rear-most point of the lock inlet so that the tail of the lock plate can fit properly.

Building guns is not like replacing parts on a car. Parts generally require a bit of "tweaking" to get them to fit right, although the Queen Anne parts require a very minimum of adjustment.

>>>>> Cascabel

[Mick MacAnselan]

I stained the wood on the kit a couple days ago, and something weird happened. On each side of the grip, I got a lite 'stripe' running down the side, following the basic contour, with really dark patches in front of and behind the stripe, as if the wood were something really soft like pine and stained unevenly. Also, after staining, I could see what looks like cutting marks unrelated to the grain that were absolutely invisible (and unfeelable) before, and re-sanding the area down/restaining doesn't get rid of it. It's as if the cut marks somehow permanently sealed the grain at those points. Anyone else have these problems? I guess it adds character to the piece, but it wasn't something I was expecting.