Reconstructing Histories 1700s Frock Coat Review

[Rumba Rue]

Several things I have noticed as I'm putting together the Hunting Coat, that all of you gals might want to consider.

The pattern only goes up to size 26. The arms will be somewhat tight especially at the elbows if you choose to go with that size. You might want to enlarge them for comfort. Yes it was 'period' to have them tight, but hey, I like to bend my arms...

Same goes for the general body of the coat, if you're a large gal, do enlarge the pattern.

I've sent a message to Kass about this already, regarding lining the coat. I line all my stuff, and unless you know how to do sleeve lining you're up the creek, cuz there's no real specfic directions for that. Truth is I would have liked to see more detailed pictures of how to do it with the pattern. I've made more than one mistake already trying to understand the directions. In several cases, I just had to give up, and bring seams together in ways I would rather have not. But thank goodness it's all on the inside where it can't be seen by the general looker of the outfit.

This pattern is definately more for experianced costume makers.

I'm about halfway done on it. When it's done, I'll post a pic.

[The Doctor]

Why, shiver me timbers...I am looking to make a coat for m'self and was thinking of using thee Simplicity "Sparrow" pattern but would rather have a true working/period coat. I have seen pictures of the Simplicity coat and wanted to see the differences.  I rather have it be period and correct then have an easy coat that is just plain wrong.

My wife got in a knock-down, drag-out with the Simplicity pattern. She made it work, but she hates it.

She took one look at Kass' pattern, and proclaimed "Now this makes sense!"

She won't have my justaucorps ready until late Summer, but I'd trust Kass' knowledge and attention to detail above some mass-produced knock-off. :)

Best of luck to ye!

[Rumba Rue]

Kass, I love you, please don't take this wrong. I think anyone going to the trouble to print up patterns gets my vote. Huzzah!

Problems I have been faced with using Kass's pattern for the Hunting Coat: size problems.

I wear a size 18, so I cut the pattern out to the largest size which was 26. Yet when I got it put together, it was way too small, I couldn't move my arms because the back was so tight and it didn't meet properly in the front like it should have, I followed the directions to a T.

So because my back isn't like most people's, I had to insert pieces into the back to widen it out. It still looks a bit odd, but that's because my back- things will never lay totally flat on across my back, there will always be some kind of pulling.

The other problem is the lack of complete diagrams, and instructions that are easily understood. But I've already mentioned that.

All I can say, unless you've done coats before, this will be a very difficult pattern to follow, because you have to put in, what's not mentioned.

I have to go back and shorten it, as it's way too long for me. Then all that's left is the buttonholes and buttons.

[Kathyrn Ramsey]

My big comment is following her cutting lines or tracing as it is for me, I tried one of her patterns for a womens 17th century jacket and could not tell which line went to where as there was not much description even on the pattern itself.

And thanks for the heads up Rhumba on the sizing as if i do attempt her pattern again and at this time a big if. I will have no choice but to do a muslin piece in advance. Though as I said following the lines on the actual pattern, it is not easy to follow when there are 2 different cutting lines for 2 different jackets on the same piece.

Again Kass this is just my cunstructive critisism.

[kass]

I wear a size 18, so I cut the pattern out to the largest size which was 26. Yet when I got it put together, it was way too small, I couldn't move my arms because the back was so tight and it didn't meet properly in the front like it should have, I followed the directions to a T.

Rue,

Do you wear an 18 in store-bought clothing? Or do you wear an 18 according to the measurements on the back of my pattern? Store sizes and pattern sizes are not the same. And since I base my pattern sizes on the same industry standards that Simplicity and Butterick use, you wouldn't be an 18 in their patterns either (unless the sizing is so big and boxy that size hardly matters).

If you followed the directions carefully, making the coat layer by layer from the lining out, you would have found out the sizing mistake in the lining layer and would not have had to add any strange bits to the garment to resize it. This is why I instruct you to build the coat as I do. Different people are built different ways and ten people could have exactly the same bust measurement and not be able to wear the same fitted garment.

Katheryn,

I suppose I could have laid out the pattern pieces separately. But this would have increased the cost of printing the pattern two-fold. Would you have preferred to pay $50 for the pattern? This is why the pattern is laid out as it is. Other customers of mine have suggested tracing the lines for your size with a highlighter pen so you can see where to cut.

Kass

[Rumba Rue]

I used a highlight marker to mark the size. Yes I do go by store sizing and in reality, so should patterns. I do understand what you are saying, however, that doesn't mean I agree with it. Also my bust is not a problem. The lack of directions are.

[Rumba Rue]

Ok everybody, the coat is finished. Here's a picture for you.

Hunting Coat

[kass]

Unfortunately, Rue, store sizing varies from store to store. Once upon a time (actually as late as the early 1980s) store sizing and pattern sizing was the same and you could count on the sizing being the same or at least close from store to store. But stores started trying to sell by low numbers (lulling their customers into the idea that they were smaller than they really were).

Pattern sizing did not change at that time and is still the same from company to company. We all (me, other small companies, and the big guys: Simplicity, Butterick, Vogue...) use industry standard sizing. Well, there are a couple companies that deviate from the norm, but most companies confirm to the industry standard.

We also put measurements on the back of every package to guarantee that you can check your size before you cut the pattern.

So where was there a lack of directions? Because I recall that pattern has nearly 20 pages of directions on not only how to put the pattern together, but how to fit it to your particular body type.

[Rumba Rue]

Well it was really weird. The shoulders fit perfectly, but the middle didn't. Go figure. Anyways, I now know how to work better with the pattern. You'll have to excuse me, I'm somewhat dsylexic, and intruction challenged...enough of that already. Lets move on.

[kass]

You got it!

Apologies to Gentleman of Fortune for hyjacking his thread...

[Capt. Sterling]

Yes I do go by store sizing and in reality, so should patterns.

But the problem here is patterns don't and never have and this includes Vogue, Butterick, Simplicity, McCalls, Folkwear, Past Patterns, etc. etc. You must measure yourself and go by the sizing on the patterns to get the correct fit. There is no way around it unfortunately.

Hector

[Gentleman of Fortune]

I have been planning to make my Justaucorps for some time. I think I like planning more than my wife would give me credit for....

Anywhoo.

What I "plan" to do is make the bloody thing and follow my progress, right here at the good ol' piracy pub!

Now, I am certainly no tailor, but the instructions seem easy enough for me to follow, so I am going to give it a shot.

I am gearing up for a house move, so, you will have to bear with me a bit, but I am going for the early justaucorps out of wool with linen lining.....

The first thing I am going to do is read the directions again.... Not just the directions, but the cool little packet that gives a run-down of the history of the Justaucorps as well.

Watch this space!

Greg aka GOF

[MadMike]

Wish Kass's pattern was available a year ago, but...

I used the Simplicity pattern as the basic pattern to work my coat. I had to alter the pattern significantly. Basically, I downloaded some historical coat patterns and period pictures off the Costumer Manifesto's page and Gentleman of Fortune's website as the basis for my 1700 coat.

I added extra material to the skirt of the coat to make it more historically accurate. Everything was hand sewn except for the buttonholes (sorry, I tried but after spending a month hand sewing the garment, it was time for a break).

http://www.geocities.com/flpyrate/projects.html

The coat project is about halfway down the page. Will post better pics when I get a digital camera.

Yours, &c.

Mike

[kass]

I would love to see the coat on you, Mike. It's hard to tell what it looks like laying on the floor.

[Rumba Rue]

BTW- Kass, I still bow down to you as a foremost seamstress regardless of whatever problems encountered in patterns that you've done.

I know of no one else more capable than you when it comes to history and sewing. My hat is off to you!

[kass]

Thank you, Rue. That's kind of you to say. And no bowing down necessary, girl! Cheers, eh?

Next time you have difficulty with one of my patterns, please email or PM me. I'm right here and I'm always willing to help. :)