1706 Slops contract Jacket

[Patrick Hand]

In Capatin Twill, Gentleman of Fortune started a topic on the The "Admiralty Slop Contracts" discussing what was avalible aboard Naval ships....

Shrunck Grey Kersey Jackett, lined with Red Cotton, with fifteen Brass Buttons, and two Pockets of Linnen, the Button Holes stich’d with Gold Colour Thread, at Ten Shillings and Sixpence each

SO I decided to make one.... I'm not sure how period is will be, a lot is guesswork, but I figured someone might be interested.

I am making it using a grey wool Navy blanket that I got at a yard sale for #3.00 (but they are avalible for about $20 online) In the photos, the grey looks blue, but the close up of the pocket (Jacket 5) is closer to its actual color. I was concerned that the blanket would be too heavy , but after cutting it, and making the pocket flaps, It turns out to be just a little heavier than the Kersey that was used to make re enactors American Civil War uniforms. So I'm happy with the wool blankets weight and thickness... I also have 3 yards of red cotton for the linning. And some scrap linen for the pockets. (I'll worry about the 15 brass buttons when I get that far in the project.....)

I made a jacket using the Justicorp pattern that is on GoF's page http://www.gentlemenoffortune.com/

but the wool that I used was to thin, and it is wearing out at the elbows, it also isn't very period, I interlined it with polar Fleace so it would be warm, but the brown polar flece is now showing through the elbows..... On the blue jacted, I also faced the lining, something that later I found I should not have done. There is also more "flair" to the vent openings, not as much as a justicorp, but too much for this jacket, so I am cutting those down on the grey jacket.

This jacket will be a mixture of the justicorp, and a period picture of a sailor watching a hanging, and a few pictures that Foxe has posted.

To make my pattern, I laid the blue jacket (I like how it fits) on top of the blanket that was folded in half, and marked with soap the two sides. I will make the sleeves later. I then cut the red cotton (also folded in half) and the blanket at the same time.

I am machine sewing the seams that you can't see, but hand finishing all the seams that you can see, so I have to finish the pockets first.

http://photobucket.com/albums/b97/PatrickH...t=Jacket-01.jpg

Photo (Jacket 1) shows the left side of the front of the jacket (you can see the inch marking on the cutting table for an idea of the size)

Photo (Jacket 2 ) shows the left back. you can see the soap marks where I will cut the vents when I get to assembling the body....

Photo (Jacket 3) I make pockets sorta like an oversized button hole... Measure and pin a scrap of linen in place on the front of the jacket, then machine sew the opening. I then cut inside the sewn lines, and turn the entire pocket to the inside. Then I hand sew (top stitch) the two small side and bottem edge of the pocket.

Photo (Jacket 4) I then fold and machine sew the pocket. This photo shows the inside of the jacket and the pocket. This will all be inside the linning when I'm finished.

Photo (Jacket 5) I hand topstitch the pocket flap, then I machine sew the pocket flap just above the pocket opening. I fold the flap down, and hand stitch the flap down. This way the pocket flap stays closed without needing buttons. I figure that buttons on the pocket would catch on stuff too easly, so I'm not putting any on the pockets.

I now have to finish sewing the other pocket, and then I can start to assemblem the body of the jacket..... so more photos to come.......

[William Brand]

Remarkably good work so far.

[HarborMaster]

YEA !! Cool Patrick . I'll be watchin this thread closely.I'll be trying to learn and pay attention here, Thanks for sharing the project online. This is what its all about.

[kass]

Well done, Patrick! I cannot WAIT to see the finished product!

By the way, that's *exactly* how you make pockets on 18thc jackets: like a buttonhole, then clip and stuff through. So you figured it out!

[Patrick Hand]

I got some more done tonight.... finished the pockets, and started to assemble to body....

http://photobucket.com/albums/b97/PatrickH...t=Jacket-06.jpg

Jacket 06.

shows the interfacing ... I don't know if it's period or not, but I wanted a little extra thickness around the front. So I just used some of the wool.

Jacket 07

Inside of the lining and interfacing sewn into place... all inside out....

Jacket 08

Shows the jacket turned right side out...( I turn everything through the arm hole at this stage...) This is a kinda icky inbetween stage.... the lining and body look lumpy .... but wont look bad when I topstitch all around the edge......

Jacket 09

a closer view of the vent.... After looking at some of the picture that Foxe posted, I noticed that there isn't an over lap on the vent....

Jacket 10....

well it is starting to look like a jacket at this stage.....

Now I get to hand sew ALL the way around the jacket, to make the wool body and linning flatter......

[Patrick Hand]

Well.... I have almost half the topstitching done so far........ then I can start on the sleeves.........

The body of the jacket looks much better where it is topstitched....... but doing it by hand is time consuming.......

[Patrick Hand]

I finished the topstitchins and started on the sleeves....

Showed the under sleeve on top of the outter sleeve (red)

shows the cuff befor it is topstiitched....

Now I get to do the 15 button holes.........

[Patrick Hand]

I finished the jacket....

The eagle eyed out there will notice that the buttons are not brass (yet...) I used these untill I can get the ones that I want....I Needed something to close the jacket.

Shows the mariners cuffs buttoned closed...

I was suprised that the wool blanket didn't turn out too thick. It's just the right weight for a jacket.....

[callenish gunner]

your work is excellent lad , well done.....my hat's off to ye patrick :) :) :)

your next round is on me lad!!!!