New shirts... finally

[madPete]

I started two shirts during Covid and just never got back to them. Then it became a matter of dread starting on them again, not sure why, other than maybe I was just burned out making clothes for the shop. With upcoming events in July and Alabama later in the year, the need was pressing for a couple extra shirts.

Two "shirts on the square" were cut out and I had gotten as far as building the sleeves and adding the cuffs. Attaching sleeves was next and never my favorite part, but I finally started on them again.

Sleeves attached, now to cut the neck opening and add the collar. Still needs the bottom hemmed, buttons/button holes, and the collar opening finished after attaching collar. but I'm realizing it was mostly in my head now that I've started on them again.

The fabric is shirtweight linen with checks about 1/4 inch. It's hard to come by, but I bought a few yards of this and they are turning out quite nice. I have some more fabric with a 1 inch windowpane pattern that I want to make a shirt out of as well. This fabric runs about $23 yd and it takes 2 yds per shirt. Add several hours of labor/finishing and they become a labor of love. It's not hard to see why Js Townsend charges $130 for a linen shirt.

The pattern I attached is very similar to the one I'm using. It was more convenient because it has measurements on the squares. I've made at least 6 shirts in the past with this pattern/or very similar pattern. The shirts I have now are a bit heavier material than shirtweight, so I was looking for something as cool as possible for Alabama humidity.

[Stynky Tudor]

Shirt is looking smart!

What a great - simple pattern.

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

I'm working off similar "patterns". Do you find the neck gussets to be necessary? I've seen some without buy I'm not convinced one way or another on them. They seem an extra step to me

[madPete]

I think its mostly a matter of authenticity.  For a working sailor it might be a necessity for a shirt to last. 

Previously I just used a pattern with a round cutout. Never had a problem with those, but the material was also heavier than shirtweight.

This last shirt I'm working on I added the neck gussets. Partially, because I thought I was getting extra material for gathers around the neck, not so much. It's really a small amount of work for the gussets.

[michaelsbagley]

There's not a lot of primary source references on shirts... but based on the few examples, and somewhat supported by period artwork...

The main differences between later period shirts and earlier ones... is the collars and cuffs tend to be 1" to 1-1/2" in the GAoP... and some of the reinforced areas don't appear to be present earlier.

Pedantic aside... awesome job. That looks great!

For what it's worth, both to make my life easier, and to get that extra bit of gathering that tends to be more prevalent in the earlier period, I tend to just use squares (based on the needed length) for my arm patterns.

[madPete]

3 hours ago, michaelsbagley said:

There's not a lot of primary source references on shirts... but based on the few examples, and somewhat supported by period artwork...

The main differences between later period shirts and earlier ones... is the collars and cuffs tend to be 1" to 1-1/2" in the GAoP... and some of the reinforced areas don't appear to be present earlier.

Pedantic aside... awesome job. That looks great!

For what it's worth, both to make my life easier, and to get that extra bit of gathering that tends to be more prevalent in the earlier period, I tend to just use squares (based on the needed length) for my arm patterns.

Thanks Michael!

yeah, one of my patterns has tapered sleeves, I have not tried that yet. I've been keeping the cuffs at 1 inch and generally mix up the collars between  either a short band collar or a  1-1/2" collar that folds a bit.

I'm guessing making a wider neck slit will force the issue on more gathers and also pull the shoulders up a bit closer. I may try that on the next one.

Aiming to get 2 shirts done for Long Beach and another 2 for September. But this is the first stitching I've done since closing "slops by chaaps", almost 2 years ago.

[michaelsbagley]

I've never done a tapered sleeve.... Or maybe I did for War of 1812 and don't remember. The other suggestion I might make on closer look at your measurements.... is a deeper neck slit. I just finished a shirt for a friend with a 10" slit (just like your diagram)... and I thought the slit was a little shorter than it might have should have been... I might suggest going 12"-14". Most of my older shirts have a deeper slit, and I don't know why I did this one so short.

Every time you post about "Long Beach" I always think, he travels to New York a lot.... and then I realize, it is in Cali.