Making a full kit in four months

[Stynky Tudor]

Wow, this is coming along great!

[madPete]

On 11/11/2024 at 12:13 AM, Tudor MercWench Smith said:

Ok, I am in love with this fabric and am not unconvinced it's magic. In two nights worth of work, I have as much done as I managed on the prototype in like 2 months. It's going together beautifully, I have the body, gores and pleats done, I still need to tailor and face the front, and put in whatever means I want for pinning the skirts open/back, then it will just be the hemming/hand finishes. Holy crap, y'alll, I am going in December and I will actually have a mantua. . . .two things a month or two ago I was pretty well convinced were not going to happen. 

Pic dump below - I got as far as getting a pic of the finished pleats but my phone died before they uploaded, so those will have to wait for the big reveal at a later date.  It's not perfect, but it's actually the thing! And dang do I love the fabic and color . ..

....Proof I do actually iron when it matters hahaha

Wow! nice work cranking along!

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

Picture of the progress as of the other night. Goal tonight is to finish the sleeves and the facings. 

[Mary Diamond]

Well done, it is coming together quite lovely, and glad to hear your prep’d the fabric with a wash. You may wish to bind that top back edge - there will be a fair amount of horizontal strain on the fabric, which can be tough on the pleats. A similar interior band at the waist is also a good idea.

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

16 hours ago, Mary Diamond said:

Well done, it is coming together quite lovely, and glad to hear your prep’d the fabric with a wash. You may wish to bind that top back edge - there will be a fair amount of horizontal strain on the fabric, which can be tough on the pleats. A similar interior band at the waist is also a good idea.

The pattern does have "finishing strips" to go around the neckline around the pleats, which should accomplish what you are suggesting, (I think). Once I get the sleeve pleats sewn in (which is what I started last night), I plan on putting them in, though I will probably go as off-book with the execution as I kind of have with a lot of the directions so far. I hadn't thought about one at the waist though, which I will now have to consider. 

I slipped it on last night over the stays after pining the sleeve pleats, and my first response was "hooly crap! It's a mantua", so I guess that's good progress. Blind stitching those pleats down now by hand, as they are "visible". Then will be the sleeve cuffs, which I will probably have to wing entirely. Then will be the finishing strip around the collar. Then will be the front. Then the Hem. Hopefully I don't lose steam on it, but it should be wearable pretty soon. 

Other things I am cooking up in the meantime - need to find a buckle so I can turn my belt from standard issue RenFaire ring belt to something more appropriate, need to reshape and spray my at, slops somehow need mended again, and button holes should get put into my frock coat. But sleeves first. . . .

 

Pics of my sleeve pleats, just cause . . . pretty fabric. . . 

[madPete]

looking good!  search "buckle castings" on facebook. RIchard Lanni casts brass buckles from originals dug in St Augustine. prices are reasonable too

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

1 hour ago, madPete said:

looking good!  search "buckle castings" on facebook. RIchard Lanni casts brass buckles from originals dug in St Augustine. prices are reasonable too

Good tip! I've been having some luck on various sites, but mixed bag as to actual historical reference on them. 

[madPete]

8 hours ago, Tudor MercWench Smith said:

Good tip! I've been having some luck on various sites, but mixed bag as to actual historical reference on them. 

https://www.facebook.com/Bucklecastings

you might have to message him and ask what he has in stock. not sure how much lead time he requires.

These are some really cool buckles... here's one for my baldric:

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

Well ladies and gents . . .

We have a more or less functional mantua.

It's got some flaws, the pleating and the fit isn't the greatest, considering I was doing it on myself and a not particularly accurate duct tape dress form. 

I've still got to do up the cuffs, then tailor/finish the front, then hem everything up. 

But it certainly kicks my girly duds up a few dozen notches. 

Please excuse the absolutely awful selfies (and the fact that the front is still way too drapey/baggy/unfinished), but I absolutely had to see how it looked over everything, and well .. .  I ain't mad about it. 

 

Next up (after the final finishes on this sucker) will probably be some mending pile stuff, getting the ring on my belt swapped out for a buckle, cleaning and reshaping my hat, and button holes on my frock.

Down to weeks now, not months!

 

[madPete]

Excellent!  First tries are sometimes compromises but looks like you got it!

I'm sure the Captain [edit:  er... the Quartermaster] will appreciate the Steward's efforts to look the part!

[Mary Diamond]

Not to worry in the least about the fit! As I understand it, the earliest mantuas did not have the plates sewn down - I expect they would have fit the same way. The front pleats are as important to the shaping as everything else, and make a huge difference in the finished appearance of the mantua. That said, I would leave them until after you stabilize the neckline, as your front pleats can have a great range of fit to them, to be as tailored or loose as you prefer.

You should be well pleased!

[michaelsbagley]

Awesome work. You should be proud. Very little is more difficult than tailoring a fitted garment to oneself.

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

Thanks everyone for the encouragement and kind words. I *am* rather proud that I managed to dig down and get it "done", and am pleased that I will have an upgrade to wear. I am not 1000% pleased with the results, but I am 1000% percent pleased with the effort, so I guess that is something. And it did earn a few "Holy shit, holy shit, I actually have a mantua" comments when I first tried it on, so I'm not even *too* disappointed with the results. I think I owe most of the success to the magical fabric, though. 

Today's projects include finishing the cuffs, which are weird, then getting a jump on the front pleats and finishes (though I half wonder if I should hem the bottom first?). The back pleats have been stabilized at the neckline, but I might want to do more or add/change it, cause I'm not sure if it is sturdy enough, but that might also hang til after the event. We shall see.

Other activities include getting candle wax out of my hat before I re-shellac it and maybe busting out the spray adhesive to start gluing down the canvas onto the coolers I am attempting to turn into "cargo bales", reorganizing and starting to pack up my sea chest, and cutting linen scraps for a mystery mousketool . .. . erm, I mean a mystery project. 

Oh yeah, also, should probably do my day job. 

all this on 3 hours sleep. . . 

 

wheeeeeeeeehhh, ADHD powers activate!

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

progress report:

Mantua is finished except for means to bustle up. Might just take the weird flappy bits from the underarm sides that are just dangling on the inside to create a little loop thingy. Or might get ultimately lazy and just tack stitch them up. We shall see. But at any rate, the thing is wearable for the event, defying all odds. Not ecstatic about the fit over all, but at a few paces, it should look fine. 

Hat has been de-waxed and reshellac'd. 

Next need to prioritize slops mending, button holing my coat, and putting finished edges on my towel. Mystery mouske-projects might have to wait to be handiwork on site. Also need to gather up ingredients and tools for Nom-Noms. Current plans for that are period accurate coffee and cocoa recipies, as well as maybe making up a round of "donuts" from circa 1697-1723. Oh, and my sourdough starter will probably come with me. And I need to come up with jars and crocks and containers for this all. 

[madPete]

And she beats the buzzer with 10 days to spare!🍩🍩🍩

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

In other news, I haven't even made it to the event yet, and I am already planning on what my next upgrade projects should be - which has lead me to an amazing source aggragate (http://www.larsdatter.com/18c/index.html) and now, in classic me fashion I am swan diving into more then I can chew with research and head-planning. 

Adding a cap to my gear *should* be easy . .  . but it's not. Finding extant non-frilly, non-dangly women's caps is nigh on herculean. I could resort to just doing a men's cap, as my kit, by intent, is a blend of both men and women's (which, the site in question also has a specific section of painting references of "women in men's clothing", so that is fun for me!), so what I'd really like to do is find a working woman's cap that would be functional for the "work" I'd be doing is goal #1. Barring that, goal # 2 would be find a men's work cap that I can actually place to periord (that also won't look dorkly on me lol). From what I am seeing, the most common cap types seen are 2nd half of the 18th c. I did find one extant example of a women's cap that I am highly curious about, cause from the one photo it's shaped nothing like the typical other women's cap (it looks almost like it's shaped like a snood), but I haven't found any further detail photos of it to be able to tell how exactly it was worn. 

Second major project - QUILT! I wish I fell down this rabbit hole earlier, since having a period quilt for a december event sounds cozy, but maybe for next year, since it will be a large undertaking. But, I am super excited, cause despite all the popular opinion that quilts are Late 18th/Early1 9th cent, there are some GORGEOUS examples of both piecework and whole cloth quilts from period that I want to try my hand at. It of course leads the question of "would a pirate have a long labored over quilt?" and the answer is probably "no", especially at the quick and dirty careening camp style events, but we'll just say it came from some "reallocated" cargo or something and call it good. 

[Mary Diamond]

Larsdatter.com is quite the resource, indeed. I personally had trouble with caps as well, due to my extra small noggin. I had made one from a standard pattern, and it looked like I was wearing a wash bowl. Haven’t gotten back to it since…

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

8 hours ago, Mary Diamond said:

Larsdatter.com is quite the resource, indeed. I personally had trouble with caps as well, due to my extra small noggin. I had made one from a standard pattern, and it looked like I was wearing a wash bowl. Haven’t gotten back to it since…

I fear similar for myself - my head itself is strangely large in actual size, but weirdly narrow, so anything big enough to actually fit looks . . . . large and weird. This is the cap in question that I am extrodinarily intrigued by. . . .

From the shape it almost looks like it is supposed to kind of sit from the middle to the back of the head (almost like a snood) and not too far forward which is wear I get caught up, but I have never seen any depictions of a cap worn like in art, and of course it's displayed with the intent of showing the quilting and pulled thread designs, not how it was functionally worn, and I haven't been able to find any other photos yet to clarify.

[Mary Diamond]

Wow, that is quite unusual. I wonder if it is more of a coif? Might be worth reaching out to Snowshill…

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

Well, I've done nothing project related due to work, life and the universe conspiring against me the past few months, as is typical. Feeling the itch though. . . 

So here is me trying to organize the breadcrumbs of projects and ideas.

Still think some small accessories - coif/cap, an apron, some better kneck scarvesetc need to be next on my agenda . . .

On 12/6/2024 at 10:04 PM, Mary Diamond said:

Wow, that is quite unusual. I wonder if it is more of a coif? Might be worth reaching out to Snowshill…

I emailed the National Trust Imaging department to see if there were any additional photos of the item who advised that all available images can be found on the website, so that means it's only the one photo, which peeves me greatly. A bit more internet poking has led me to discover that the majority of the Wade Costume Collection has been moved out of Snowshill to another stately home museum, but not finding a lot of details about that, and this is still listed as being at Snowshill. . . next step is to try and find a direct contact for the staff specifically at Snowshill, to see if they can GET more pictures for me of the item, if it's still there. Since, yknow, a trip over to see it is not in the cards right now

In other news, the belt buckle I ordered before FKGII finally got here back after Xmas, and it finally got added to my belt. Holes still need to be punched, but I shall no longer look like a renfaire escapee with my generic ye old ring belt (though kept the leather, as I've had that one belt for just shy of 20 years now, so I figured I'd keep it as a sort of talisman)

I am very pleased with the quality of the buckle, and that it's the classic historical shape, but isn't one of the over the top huge fancy buckles. I'm honestly not keen on the brass color, but it's more accurate and what it was available to be cast in, so I just told myself to get over myself lol . . .

Also, while not generally considered a hot bed of reenactment paraphernalia, with Big Lots closing I decided to check out the clerance prices. Found a passable-ish mug to replace my dearly departed redware mug that died at the even, was resurrected, and died again. Also found some "copper" measuring spoons - not particularly accurate in shape, but the color will help them blend in more. Same for a set off "brass" serving/cooking utensils.  If you've got one close by, I recommend vulture-ing over the remains for any mess or galley kit needed - they had a decent selection of wood bowls, some other pottery mugs, and some cast iron I was a bit tempted by, but couldn't cought up the coin for.

 

So project agenda is as follows:

- Dig for more cap references to start making
- Pattern an apron
- Secure the q&d seams of the the alterations that Mistress @Mary Diamond helped me on my mantua back in December (honestly, her on the fly, sewing it while it's still on my body seams will still be better then any offical work I put into it haha)
- Stiching down the button holes on my frock coat and hiding the modern interfacing
- Women's shift (I like the look of the men's shirt under women's gear, and with some reference paintings I've found, women co-opting items of their probably dead husband's wardrobe as needs may was not unheard of or uncommong, but I'd like to have the option to do a more strictly "correct" set of women's dress. 
- Better stays needs to be on my radar too, but honestly I am so burnt out on my hubristically attempting projects of a skill level I have no business attempting that I am just ignoring that fact for now (also deluding myself that I will finally get to my "revenge" weight and I shouldn't layout on anything fitted or structured until then.)

 

So, as we can see, my unique blend of hubris and procrastination persists. 

[madPete]

6 hours ago, Tudor MercWench Smith said:

Well, I've done nothing project related due to work, life and the universe conspiring against me the past few months, as is typical. Feeling the itch though. . . 

So here is me trying to organize the breadcrumbs of projects and ideas.

Still think some small accessories - coif/cap, an apron, some better kneck scarvesetc need to be next on my agenda . . .

I emailed the National Trust Imaging department to see if there were any additional photos of the item who advised that all available images can be found on the website, so that means it's only the one photo, which peeves me greatly. A bit more internet poking has led me to discover that the majority of the Wade Costume Collection has been moved out of Snowshill to another stately home museum, but not finding a lot of details about that, and this is still listed as being at Snowshill. . . next step is to try and find a direct contact for the staff specifically at Snowshill, to see if they can GET more pictures for me of the item, if it's still there. Since, yknow, a trip over to see it is not in the cards right now

In other news, the belt buckle I ordered before FKGII finally got here back after Xmas, and it finally got added to my belt. Holes still need to be punched, but I shall no longer look like a renfaire escapee with my generic ye old ring belt (though kept the leather, as I've had that one belt for just shy of 20 years now, so I figured I'd keep it as a sort of talisman)

I am very pleased with the quality of the buckle, and that it's the classic historical shape, but isn't one of the over the top huge fancy buckles. I'm honestly not keen on the brass color, but it's more accurate and what it was available to be cast in, so I just told myself to get over myself lol . . .

Also, while not generally considered a hot bed of reenactment paraphernalia, with Big Lots closing I decided to check out the clerance prices. Found a passable-ish mug to replace my dearly departed redware mug that died at the even, was resurrected, and died again. Also found some "copper" measuring spoons - not particularly accurate in shape, but the color will help them blend in more. Same for a set off "brass" serving/cooking utensils.  If you've got one close by, I recommend vulture-ing over the remains for any mess or galley kit needed - they had a decent selection of wood bowls, some other pottery mugs, and some cast iron I was a bit tempted by, but couldn't cought up the coin for.

 

So project agenda is as follows:

- Dig for more cap references to start making
- Pattern an apron
- Secure the q&d seams of the the alterations that Mistress @Mary Diamond helped me on my mantua back in December (honestly, her on the fly, sewing it while it's still on my body seams will still be better then any offical work I put into it haha)
- Stiching down the button holes on my frock coat and hiding the modern interfacing
- Women's shift (I like the look of the men's shirt under women's gear, and with some reference paintings I've found, women co-opting items of their probably dead husband's wardrobe as needs may was not unheard of or uncommong, but I'd like to have the option to do a more strictly "correct" set of women's dress. 
- Better stays needs to be on my radar too, but honestly I am so burnt out on my hubristically attempting projects of a skill level I have no business attempting that I am just ignoring that fact for now (also deluding myself that I will finally get to my "revenge" weight and I shouldn't layout on anything fitted or structured until then.)

 

So, as we can see, my unique blend of hubris and procrastination persists. 

Love the new buckle! It works with the well worn belt.

It's good to see we have multiple options for the cookfire. I'm glad because logistics may prevent us from getting all of the pyracy kit we have to an event.

Alas, our "Big Lots" has been closed for a couple months. It's now just a "big lot".

I've been busy with other stuff, but I'll post on my thread rather than hijack yours 😁

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

9 hours ago, madPete said:

Love the new buckle! It works with the well worn belt.

It's good to see we have multiple options for the cookfire. I'm glad because logistics may prevent us from getting all of the pyracy kit we have to an event.

Alas, our "Big Lots" has been closed for a couple months. It's now just a "big lot".

I've been busy with other stuff, but I'll post on my thread rather than hijack yours 😁

Yeah, my thought is if I can build even just a basic kitchen chest, we can have an east coast/west coast set so we don't have to worry about shclepping every single thing. Also, if I ever get back to my SCA stuff, I am not reliant on the kitchens of others lol

 

the buckle does look pretty great with the aged belt, imho. Thanks again for the recommendation - getting a nice, accurate buckle I feel really makes it look sooo much better - any old basic buckle around the man's leather shop would have still been an improvement, but this buckle actually made it an upgrade. Was tempted by one of the fancy buckles he had that was made off an original casting, but it wouldn't have made sense, at least with this old manky belt and what it gets worn for. Maybe someday I'll go back for the fancy buckle when I have fancier duds. LOL

 

Oh! In projects I forgot to mention that I am also contemplating starting - more embroidery, maybe a foray into flag making, and those cooler covers I never fully finished back in December 

[Mary Diamond]

Well, for someone who’s “done nothing”, I’d say you accomplished a fair bit! Well done on the kitchen finds, and the buckle is quite lovely!

[Stynky Tudor]

Wow, I can only dream of being as unproductive as you guys. Amazing stuff!

[Halfpint]

Wow! You've done great!  😃  The only thing I've done was sew breeches for my pirate Stitch... lol!