Making a full kit in four months

[Mary Diamond]

And the frantic dance begins… project prioritization.

[Mary Diamond]

On 10/8/2025 at 8:52 AM, Tudor MercWench Smith said:

Surfacing from the stasis, since we are now (looks at watch) 2 months out from the even. . . . sheesh, why can I only function when it's panic sewing.

 

Quick Draw udpates

• I have made little to no progress on the stays. I never have consistent enough time to make real progress. I have not given up entirely, but there is a good chance that I will be wearing my old Samson stays for a while yet. Which kind of bums me out cause I can't wait to see the custom pattern come to fruition, but damn those chanels are a lot of handsewing. 
•  

Never give up, never surrender! Have a look at the link below, and imagine the story you could weave about your stays…

 

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1Cb5k3Rjvi/

 

 

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

23 hours ago, Mary Diamond said:

Never give up, never surrender! Have a look at the link below, and imagine the story you could weave about your stays…

 

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1Cb5k3Rjvi/

 

 

 

Imagine find THAT just shoved under your eaves. . . . 

 

Not surrounding, just, as you said in your first response - project prioritization. I have functional, almost proper stays, which when worn with manuta, the more modern construction elements are not nearly as noticeable. I have no cap, I have no apron. They are much smaller, easier to accomplish items in the sparse "project" time I am allotted. Along with that, finish the interior hem binding on the mantua that I still need to finish (I finished the reinforcement seams to what you did last December ages ago, but couldn't face what felt like miles of roll hemming.) after those three things, maybe the skirt upgrade I splurged on.   

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

Kit expansion items that I "cheated" by thrifting, not making . . . .

"Monmouth" Cap . . . .

 

Technically modern construction, but real wool, same shape, and felted (probably due to someone not knowing how to wash wool without it felting lol). I like to think it gets the job done for a mere $15 and 0 nervous breakdowns from trying to remember how to knit. . . 

Also added -

 

 

Wide tartan scarf for Sunday Scottish Shenanigans - again, technically modern piece, but a large wide rectangle of tartan wool is not exclusively modern coded. Probably to be worn as a shawl/wrap. This for the low low price of $30. For want of knowing the clans of any of my recently discovered Scottish ancestry (thanks AncestryDNA!), and County Kildare Irish Tartans being basically a custom order and never stocked anywhere, I defaulted to an Antique Dress Stewart - cause, well, the Stewarts were my favorite royal house, and honestly . . . I just liked the word play of Stewart/Steward. 

I swear, apron, cap and skirt updates will happen soon! Considering we are down to like what - 4 weeks?  - till the event, I have no more time to shilly-shally!

 

[Stynky Tudor]

15 hours ago, Tudor MercWench Smith said:

 

...I like to think it gets the job done for a mere $15 and 0 nervous breakdowns from trying to remember how to knit. . . 

 

 

 . . . I just liked the word play of Stewart/Steward. 

 

Excellent Thrift finds -- I especially love the plaid!

[madPete]

19 hours ago, Tudor MercWench Smith said:

Kit expansion items that I "cheated" by thrifting, not making . . . .

"Monmouth" Cap . . . .

 

Technically modern construction, but real wool, same shape, and felted (probably due to someone not knowing how to wash wool without it felting lol). I like to think it gets the job done for a mere $15 and 0 nervous breakdowns from trying to remember how to knit. . . 

Also added -

 

 

 

Wide tartan scarf for Sunday Scottish Shenanigans - again, technically modern piece, but a large wide rectangle of tartan wool is not exclusively modern coded. Probably to be worn as a shawl/wrap. This for the low low price of $30. For want of knowing the clans of any of my recently discovered Scottish ancestry (thanks AncestryDNA!), and County Kildare Irish Tartans being basically a custom order and never stocked anywhere, I defaulted to an Antique Dress Stewart - cause, well, the Stewarts were my favorite royal house, and honestly . . . I just liked the word play of Stewart/Steward. 

I swear, apron, cap and skirt updates will happen soon! Considering we are down to like what - 4 weeks?  - till the event, I have no more time to shilly-shally!

 

I like those finds! I'm set for Scottish Shenanigans as well.

But definitely no time left to shilly-shally or dilly-dally!

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

As promised....actual updated...

 

Over the last two days I have been chipping away at replacement red petticoat cause it doesn't require much thought.

 

Because it was a bit of a vanity splurge (technically my existing red skirt was fine, but I had unwittingly purchased a blend when I made it and my gathering was not even front and back) I decided I was going all in on the "accuracy" meter, just cause a high level of accuracy was actually accesible to me..... So linen skirt, linen thread, hand stitched. But if I was going all in on accuracy I decided to actually be y'know, slightly less slapdash in my process.

 

So I actually did the thread pull method to ensure my cut line was accurate....

 

 

I actually ironed down my hem so it would stay even....

 

Got that good-good thread and waxed it with the stub of an old beeswax candle....

 

And away the hemming went (first, before gathering to ensure it stays even and straight....also assisted by using the selvedge edge at the bottom....work smarter not harder)

 

 

Finished hem last night and started on the side seam... About halfway through first pass, but since I am french seaming again I will need to go back over it once I get it sewn together 

 

 

So there we go...proof I can act so things and actually do them kinda ok when I put mind to it and manage to sneak out from under ye olde executive dysfunction....

[madPete]

1 hour ago, Tudor MercWench Smith said:

As promised....actual updated...

 

Over the last two days I have been chipping away at replacement red petticoat cause it doesn't require much thought.

 

Because it was a bit of a vanity splurge (technically my existing red skirt was fine, but I had unwittingly purchased a blend when I made it and my gathering was not even front and back) I decided I was going all in on the "accuracy" meter, just cause a high level of accuracy was actually accesible to me..... So linen skirt, linen thread, hand stitched. But if I was going all in on accuracy I decided to actually be y'know, slightly less slapdash in my process.

 

So I actually did the thread pull method to ensure my cut line was accurate....

 

 

 

I actually ironed down my hem so it would stay even....

 

 

Got that good-good thread and waxed it with the stub of an old beeswax candle....

 

And away the hemming went (first, before gathering to ensure it stays even and straight....also assisted by using the selvedge edge at the bottom....work smarter not harder)

 

 

 

Finished hem last night and started on the side seam... About halfway through first pass, but since I am french seaming again I will need to go back over it once I get it sewn together 

 

 

 

So there we go...proof I can act so things and actually do them kinda ok when I put mind to it and manage to sneak out from under ye olde executive dysfunction....

Nice work!  😁

Be careful with that red in the kitchen. I found if it gets wet, it sometimes bleeds into other clothing (just cause it looks brand new).

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

6 hours ago, madPete said:

Nice work!  😁

Be careful with that red in the kitchen. I found if it gets wet, it sometimes bleeds into other clothing (just cause it looks brand new).

 

Good looking out! I did make a point to pre soak and wash my fabric like I always do, but the thread and the twill tape I got for the waistband I have not . . . too late for the thread but that is small potatoes. Waistband I should set to soak. It's cotton though (grumble grumble accuracy grumble), and mass produced, so I feel like it's less likely to bleed then the fabric was. It will probably get another wash once all together as well, just to get rid of any additional leaching. 

[madPete]

19 hours ago, Tudor MercWench Smith said:

 

Good looking out! I did make a point to pre soak and wash my fabric like I always do, but the thread and the twill tape I got for the waistband I have not . . . too late for the thread but that is small potatoes. Waistband I should set to soak. It's cotton though (grumble grumble accuracy grumble), and mass produced, so I feel like it's less likely to bleed then the fabric was. It will probably get another wash once all together as well, just to get rid of any additional leaching. 

I found the cotton tape does it too, but i've lost the memory of the instance. I guess it depends more on the manufacturer of the tape. edit: [Booth Draper and Burnley and Trowbridge carry linen tapes, but its a  bit more expensive.]

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

28 minutes ago, madPete said:

I found the cotton tape does it too, but i've lost the memory of the instance. I guess it depends more on the manufacturer of the tape. edit: [Booth Draper and Burnley and Trowbridge carry linen tapes, but its a  bit more expensive.]

 

I looked for linen tape at both those places but they had nothing in the color, just white and natural, and I didn't want to mess with attempting to dye, so the cotton I found was just off amazon so modern dyes should help reduce the issue. 

[madPete]

5 hours ago, Tudor MercWench Smith said:

 

I looked for linen tape at both those places but they had nothing in the color, just white and natural, and I didn't want to mess with attempting to dye, so the cotton I found was just off amazon so modern dyes should help reduce the issue. 

Sorry, I think I was looking at wool tape, not linen.

[Mary Diamond]

Busy with fantastic finds and smart improvements - well done!

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

23 hours ago, Mary Diamond said:

Busy with fantastic finds and smart improvements - well done!

 

Thank you kindly Mistress Diamond!

 

New skirt if finished and I am well pleased with how it came out. The order of proceedings I took definitely gave me better results and I love that it was all hang done with (almost) entirely accurate materials. The volume, gathering and drape really is a vast improvement. Pics of finished product are hard but I'll see what I can accomplish. 

 

I have now moved onto my apron. I had two fabric options...one a king sized 100% linen pillow case that i do not actually need on my bed, or a pack of very all cotton nice flour sack towels I got at Aldi for like 4$. I wanted the "authenticity" brag but I also recall how messy I can get in the kitchen so I am going with the cotton, at least to start with. If I have time I still might do up my linen for a "fancy" version. Fun feature of the cotton though is I am actually having to piece two of them together which I feel gives at least a taste of some historicity since piecing fabric was extraordinarily common....

 

Oh the cap front....in phoned it in and did a custom order on Etsy to get something cut in that unique style I've been chasing. Pics to follow once hair pins arrive lol

 

In the meantime have started pulling everything else out and evaluating for mending/resizing before december and should be all set in time

 

Edited November 17, 2025 by Tudor MercWench Smith

[Mary Diamond]

3 hours ago, Tudor MercWench Smith said:

I have now moved onto my apron. I had two fabric options...one a king sized 100% linen pillow case that i do not actually need on my bed, or a pack of very all cotton nice flour sack towels I got at Aldi for like 4$. I wanted the "authenticity" brag but I also recall how messy I can get in the kitchen so I am going with the cotton, at least to start with. If I have time I still might do up my linen for a "fancy" version. Fun feature of the cotton though is I am actually having to piece two of them together which I feel gives at least a taste of some historicity since piecing fabric was extraordinarily common....

 

Great progress! Regarding the apron - keep in mind you can also make a wool apron, safe by the fire and handy when grabbing hot pans, etc.

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

10 hours ago, Mary Diamond said:

Great progress! Regarding the apron - keep in mind you can also make a wool apron, safe by the fire and handy when grabbing hot pans, etc.

 

that is an excellent idea! I will have to keep my eyes open for a good length of wool in the right weight for the right price. I'll start with cotton and then plan for that for the next. 

Edit to add; Lucky me!! Fabric Mart is having a 65% off wool sale today!

 

Eyeing up these guys - 

 

 

 

 

They are all the nice modern wide width fabrics that I can't imagine needing much more then 1-1.5 yards. I am leaning most towards the plaid worsted weave cause of my previous rabbit hole research on checked aprons, and I feel like the colors would work well with all combinations of my existing kit, and the slight pattern will give 'depth' to the over all look. But the twill coating feels like it would have more of the fire safety/pot holder features lol just due to the heavier weight 

 

 

Edited November 17, 2025 by Tudor MercWench Smith

[Mary Diamond]

1 hour ago, Tudor MercWench Smith said:

 

that is an excellent idea! I will have to keep my eyes open for a good length of wool in the right weight for the right price. I'll start with cotton and then plan for that for the next. 

Edit to add; Lucky me!! Fabric Mart is having a 65% off wool sale today!

 

Eyeing up these guys - 

 

 

 

 

They are all the nice modern wide width fabrics that I can't imagine needing much more then 1-1.5 yards. I am leaning most towards the plaid worsted weave cause of my previous rabbit hole research on checked aprons, and I feel like the colors would work well with all combinations of my existing kit, and the slight pattern will give 'depth' to the over all look. But the twill coating feels like it would have more of the fire safety/pot holder features lol just due to the heavier weight 

 

 

I would agree, the suitings might be too light weight, would require doubling or tripling for safe handling of hot items. But, they would be more comfortable to wear than the blanket of coating wool… if you get both, you can alternate if one gets too dirty to wear. And, I would think one yard would be quite sufficient, with a twill tape waistband.

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

58 minutes ago, Mary Diamond said:

I would agree, the suitings might be too light weight, would require doubling or tripling for safe handling of hot items. But, they would be more comfortable to wear than the blanket of coating wool… if you get both, you can alternate if one gets too dirty to wear. And, I would think one yard would be quite sufficient, with a twill tape waistband.

 

So I pulled the trigger on the plaid. . . .The blanket nature didn't deter me from the coating so much as I just didn't like the color as much, and the plaid was even less expensive. But I had to get something 65% off and $1 shipping. So, just about the time I finish my cotton flour sack apron, I will have a wool one to do up. 

 

Bad influences, all of ya!

 

[Mary Diamond]

2 hours ago, Tudor MercWench Smith said:

 

So I pulled the trigger on the plaid. . . .The blanket nature didn't deter me from the coating so much as I just didn't like the color as much, and the plaid was even less expensive. But I had to get something 65% off and $1 shipping. So, just about the time I finish my cotton flour sack apron, I will have a wool one to do up. 

 

Bad influences, all of ya!

 

Hahaha, you’ll thank me later. Besides, what did you expect? I mean, look at who you hang out with… 😊

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

Wool for apron is here! The color is lovely, and I think it will be perfect once I pre-wash and get any sizing off of it! Bonus, the 1 yard I got will actually be enough to make 2 aprons, so in theory I can try to sell one to "offeset" the splurge on the fabric and moreso, getting nice wool twill tape instead of cheap cotton twill tape, as well as nice thread. While I would struggle getting the pricey notions for myself, if they increase "value" on a sellable piece, it make sense in my lizard brain. Pics to follow once I get started. 

 

T-minus three weeks and here I am starting a whole new project, that might also involve me having to make dye for wool twill tape!! Wheeeeeeeee!!! I love the smell of procrastination panic in the morning!!!!

[madPete]

I got requests for hats, so here I go... Scottish tams and workcaps in progress

 

[Mary Diamond]

Ah, everyone busy creating! It will be lovely to see the results…

[William Brand]

On 11/21/2025 at 11:11 AM, madPete said:

I got requests for hats, so here I go... Scottish tams and workcaps in progress

 

I'm so excited!

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

Breakfast -

 

 

Apron progress notes 

- fabric prewashed to remove the starch/sizing 

- ironed and cut into 2

- base hem finished along selvedge (though for the next one I might hide the selvedge into the twill tape/gathered waist to keep it looking neater and less modern)

- natural twill tape waistband cut and soaked in tea to stain closer to wool color.

 

Settled for linen cotton blend twill tape (the best Venn diagram result  I could find of price/materials/availability/quantity/,etc). Silk thread, waxed with beeswax block.

 

Should have it done by tomorrow depending on how work treats me today.

 

After that, Frankenstein-ing a new sleeping mat, last minute adjustments and mending of slops and mantua, and if there is time, button holing the frock coat but that can be a to do at the event too

[michaelsbagley]

Okay, returning to this discussion....

Okay, I took some quick flips through my fav sources... and well.... I could find nothing that either supports my assertion of "high-collared" women's shifts, not could I find anything tht really disproves it.

But those same sentiments could be applied to your "women in men's shirt as shifts".

 

Now having let this simmer in the back of my mind for a few weeks, or occassional contemplation on the matter, and recallinng other period information, I am leaing more to agreeing with the notion of women wearing men's shirts. It would be uncommon. Not rare, but also not common. So not trying to place a "definitive number" on this, but trying to clear up my vibe, I would rate it as a thing that happened in the 20-30% range.

As has been discussed in many threads in "Twill", the used clothing market at this time was a thriving industry, and just a common part of every day life.

Also, having made both men's shirt (a lot), and more than my fair share of women's shifts, the construction of the two garment's is extremely similar. Yeah, the neckline is different, and in some case the cuffs, but the rest of the garment is made almost identically.

Now factor, that a shirt looks almost the same as a shift on the cuff if bunched up and tied just below the elbow rather than the wrist.

Also factor the "length" of a men's shirt and a female shift is VERY similar (even ignoring my wife being almost as tallas me) the shift is a shorter length undergarment (lower thigh, or just above the knee in length), which happens to be the length of men's shirts.

And factor when poring over images of working class women, the necklines except when wearing a more gown style (open necked) shift, I couldn;t find hardly any images where the neckline of shifts were easily visible. Between the wearing of neckerchiefs (fichu?), or versions of partletts (female period  equivalent of a dickie for those unfamiliar with the term), and hoods, cloaks, or other covering overgarments... I'm sure there are some images of necklines on female figures out there (beyond the few you've pointed out), but they are uncommon.

So combining all the above, a woman buying a men's shirt to wear instead of a women's shift makes sense. Specially when factoring the used clithing market, the economy of doing so, the used clothing market, the similarities in construction etc. ect. ect.

So in short, I might dissuade you from "dieing on that hill" , but I am coming around to disagreeing with the assertion a whole let less.

 

 

On 10/8/2025 at 11:48 AM, Tudor MercWench Smith said:

 

Pretty much - I guess arguably it could be a collared shift, but I've never actually seen one of those with a collar like this (the higher, smocked collars of the Renaissance, sure, but not like this) especially in this or adjoining periods, and at least to my eye, the sleeves read like a rolled up long sleeve, not the 3/4 length that was prevelant on most women's shifts. Obviously this is all fuzzy science - but I am a firm believer in History as an Art, not a Science lol . . .

Edit to add: The other reason the sleeves read "men's shirt" besides length/what appears to be rolled, is the general volume. All examples of women's shifts I have seen seem to have much more narrow sleeves then men's shirts - maybe occasionally pleated/smocked/etc, so volume but more tightly controlled. 

 

  

I will probably just attempt one without an embroidered design first, but will either add embroidery post hoc or do a second one, lest I look too Amish with my plain white sin-sifter and PA German features lol . . .
 

 

THANK YOU!! I even thought of partlet as I was searching my brain box, but tossed it out thinking more of the Elizabethan under-partlet, and for not applying it to that very dutch mental image you described. 

I'd be curious to see references on "working class shifts that were designed for more modesty, and fit over the shoulders and often had men's style collars on them", cause I have literally never seen them. I have only seen the first style you referenced, and then  the more modest working class shifts fitting over the shoulders and the (sometimes) wide scoopy neck with drawstring. Closest I've seen to a collar on any of the period shifts I've come across in my research have been ruffles at the neckline.

 

Not that I don't believe, you, to the contrary, you have been doing this longer and based off the amount of collars I am finding in art, a collared women's shift would make much more sense (despite wishing my interpretation to be correct lol)

 

So.... bear not poked . . . bear intrigued. . . bear learns. . .