Making a full kit in four months

[Stynky Tudor]

Wow, this is coming along great!

[madPete]

On 11/11/2024 at 12:13 AM, Tudor MercWench Smith said:

Ok, I am in love with this fabric and am not unconvinced it's magic. In two nights worth of work, I have as much done as I managed on the prototype in like 2 months. It's going together beautifully, I have the body, gores and pleats done, I still need to tailor and face the front, and put in whatever means I want for pinning the skirts open/back, then it will just be the hemming/hand finishes. Holy crap, y'alll, I am going in December and I will actually have a mantua. . . .two things a month or two ago I was pretty well convinced were not going to happen. 

Pic dump below - I got as far as getting a pic of the finished pleats but my phone died before they uploaded, so those will have to wait for the big reveal at a later date.  It's not perfect, but it's actually the thing! And dang do I love the fabic and color . ..

....Proof I do actually iron when it matters hahaha

Wow! nice work cranking along!

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

Picture of the progress as of the other night. Goal tonight is to finish the sleeves and the facings. 

[Mary Diamond]

Well done, it is coming together quite lovely, and glad to hear your prep’d the fabric with a wash. You may wish to bind that top back edge - there will be a fair amount of horizontal strain on the fabric, which can be tough on the pleats. A similar interior band at the waist is also a good idea.

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

16 hours ago, Mary Diamond said:

Well done, it is coming together quite lovely, and glad to hear your prep’d the fabric with a wash. You may wish to bind that top back edge - there will be a fair amount of horizontal strain on the fabric, which can be tough on the pleats. A similar interior band at the waist is also a good idea.

The pattern does have "finishing strips" to go around the neckline around the pleats, which should accomplish what you are suggesting, (I think). Once I get the sleeve pleats sewn in (which is what I started last night), I plan on putting them in, though I will probably go as off-book with the execution as I kind of have with a lot of the directions so far. I hadn't thought about one at the waist though, which I will now have to consider. 

I slipped it on last night over the stays after pining the sleeve pleats, and my first response was "hooly crap! It's a mantua", so I guess that's good progress. Blind stitching those pleats down now by hand, as they are "visible". Then will be the sleeve cuffs, which I will probably have to wing entirely. Then will be the finishing strip around the collar. Then will be the front. Then the Hem. Hopefully I don't lose steam on it, but it should be wearable pretty soon. 

Other things I am cooking up in the meantime - need to find a buckle so I can turn my belt from standard issue RenFaire ring belt to something more appropriate, need to reshape and spray my at, slops somehow need mended again, and button holes should get put into my frock coat. But sleeves first. . . .

 

Pics of my sleeve pleats, just cause . . . pretty fabric. . . 

[madPete]

looking good!  search "buckle castings" on facebook. RIchard Lanni casts brass buckles from originals dug in St Augustine. prices are reasonable too

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

1 hour ago, madPete said:

looking good!  search "buckle castings" on facebook. RIchard Lanni casts brass buckles from originals dug in St Augustine. prices are reasonable too

Good tip! I've been having some luck on various sites, but mixed bag as to actual historical reference on them. 

[madPete]

8 hours ago, Tudor MercWench Smith said:

Good tip! I've been having some luck on various sites, but mixed bag as to actual historical reference on them. 

https://www.facebook.com/Bucklecastings

you might have to message him and ask what he has in stock. not sure how much lead time he requires.

These are some really cool buckles... here's one for my baldric:

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

Well ladies and gents . . .

We have a more or less functional mantua.

It's got some flaws, the pleating and the fit isn't the greatest, considering I was doing it on myself and a not particularly accurate duct tape dress form. 

I've still got to do up the cuffs, then tailor/finish the front, then hem everything up. 

But it certainly kicks my girly duds up a few dozen notches. 

Please excuse the absolutely awful selfies (and the fact that the front is still way too drapey/baggy/unfinished), but I absolutely had to see how it looked over everything, and well .. .  I ain't mad about it. 

 

Next up (after the final finishes on this sucker) will probably be some mending pile stuff, getting the ring on my belt swapped out for a buckle, cleaning and reshaping my hat, and button holes on my frock.

Down to weeks now, not months!

 

[madPete]

Excellent!  First tries are sometimes compromises but looks like you got it!

I'm sure the Captain [edit:  er... the Quartermaster] will appreciate the Steward's efforts to look the part!

[Mary Diamond]

Not to worry in the least about the fit! As I understand it, the earliest mantuas did not have the plates sewn down - I expect they would have fit the same way. The front pleats are as important to the shaping as everything else, and make a huge difference in the finished appearance of the mantua. That said, I would leave them until after you stabilize the neckline, as your front pleats can have a great range of fit to them, to be as tailored or loose as you prefer.

You should be well pleased!