Lily Alexander Posted October 8, 2012 Author Share Posted October 8, 2012 Ahoy, Pyracy Pub Mates! Sorry fer not havin' posted over 'ere sooner. I can't remember me sign-in information, so I asked Lily to put this up fer me. I wanted to answer some of yer questions about his year's Fort Taylor Pyrate Invasion, but I'll tell ye's right off the bat that I still don't have all the answers. I think I should first reiterate a few essentials that ye've seen in yer guidelines an' in Lily communiqués... Please be sure to note that we have been informed upside down and sideways that all flintlock weapons, be they pistols er muskets, are require to have a flashguard and a frizzen stall on them as per Florida State Park Regulations. Also, only 1F and 2F powder is allowed, and it will be furnished by the Park. In other words, no we can't use 3F or 4F, and no ye can't bring yer own powder. I seriously apologize fer whatever inconvenience this is going to cause, whether ye add the gear to yer guns er whether ye chose to leave yer guns home, but I truly hope we can all make fer the best of the scenario. (I assure you that a very persistent and dedicated crew tried their damnedest on these issues. We all owe them a thanks.) Now as far as what a flashguard can be made of, I don't have final word on this so do not quote me: We have asked if leather flashguards would be acceptable along with other known nonflammable metals. We figure that leather could possibly be an easier and more affordable option fer folks wanting to make their own. As I get answers I'll share whatever the news. Til then, I can't wait te see ye all! Yea pyracy! All me love, Scarlett Jai If you're gonna give me a headache, please bring me an aspirin! http://www.forttaylorpyrates.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Brand Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 Thanks to everyone who researched and submitted all the paperwork that the state asked for, despite their ruling. I know that the blanket statements that come down from the state level are frustrating, but I appreciate the efforts you've made and continue to make on our behalf. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Jim Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 I second William's remarks. This is exactly the sort of thing that I am not very good at and I really appreciate it when someone else takes on the challenge. Huzzah! My occupational hazard bein' my occupation's just not around... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commodore Swab Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 I apperciate a final ruling regarding flash guards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Jim Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Do you want to use my little brass blunderbuss again William? AYE. Very well then, I'll be sure to pack it along. I have enlarged the touch-hole slightly to musket size instead of the finer rifle size since you used it last, as I have had some issue with it plugging in the past. That will no longer be an issue. it does NOT have a flash guard nor will it be feasable to install one on the old CVA Spanish Maslin lock. The frizzen is bridled with an internal screw. If this is an issue for battle I just wanted you to be aware before hand. Bo An idea for your lock/flashguard problem: fashion a guard from soft sheet brass and have the mounting tab go down from the pan flat to the lock plate and fit it under the frizzen spring. You might need a longer screw. This would also work if your frizzen spring also has an internal screw as it would still fit between the spring and the lock plate. Again, possible longer screw. My occupational hazard bein' my occupation's just not around... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commodore Swab Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 You are thinking about mounting it to which screw? The frizzen spring screw and hide the frizzen spring and pan behind the guard? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Jim Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 No, a tab under the frizzen spring next to the plate and extend it up the the bottom of the pan. Then bend it out along the bottom of the pan and up to the actual guard. In other words, instead of a tab mounting forward on the outside of frizzen screw, you would have an "L" shape going from the outside of the pan, under and down to mount inside the frizzen spring screw. If I had drawing software (and knew how to use it) it is a simple setup. In theory, at least. My occupational hazard bein' my occupation's just not around... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Jim Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Of course you could mount it to the outside of the frizzen spring, enclose the entire pan and part of the lock. My occupational hazard bein' my occupation's just not around... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commodore Swab Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 I think I got you, I will not be modifying my double barrel as it also has internal screws. I also feel that it would make the weapon unsafe, I want the blast going away from the gun not up and above a primed pan. My 2 large blunderbusses also will not be modified as I will not modify an original lock to accecpt a flash guard. My snaphaunce musket would take alot of work to form a flash guard do to the design of the lock There is one there of a sort already) but would not accecpt a frizzen stall due to the nature of the how the frizzen is attached. I do have a musket that has the required equipment because if somebody were to buy it there is a chance that that piece may be used in a military formation, so yes I could shoot but have no loaner weapons for my friends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt. Bo of the WTF co. Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 (edited) Problem: if that guard gets snagged on clothing or anything else it could displace the frizzen spring. I have thought about something that goes all the way down and mounts under the trigger guard, but the further away you get from the pan with the anchor point, the less strength you have to hold the guard in place where it needs it the most. Covering the entire lock or even half the lock is just plain unsightly. Might as well use 1853 Enfields or 1861 Springfeilds with musket caps. Maybe I could rob the big brass bowl knuckle guard off my 1860 navy cutlass and duct-tape it to the stock? Sorry, had to say it. Maybe if the participants refuse to perform a battle at all under these restraints, a clear message would be sent? just a thought. Anyhow, I'll be doing my grinder thing and having fun with the pubbers. May be the only time I ever get out to this event and I want to meet as many of you as I can. See ya there. I do appreciate the thought Capt. Jim, I hope that my comments are not taken as a slam to you. Just don't think much of the regulations Ft Taylor settled on is all. Bo Edited October 9, 2012 by Capt. Bo of the WTF co. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Brand Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Fort Taylor did not settle on this decision. It was made at the upper state level. Boycotting the battles would not send a message to the person or persons at the state level who made this decision, because it's likely that they don't attend or care. If they cared one way or another, they would have considered all of the research and paperwork that were submitted, but they didn't. The state made a broadstroke decision despite the pleas of the Friends of Fort Taylor and the park staff. What's done is done. We can picket and complain or move forward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lily Alexander Posted October 9, 2012 Author Share Posted October 9, 2012 Our proposal to the Florida Park Service was denied based on the fact that they could find “no hard data” to support 7-10 feet is a safe distance for firing a weapon without a flashguard. If anyone should come across this “hard data”, please pass it along and I will continue to push forward and ask for an appeal to their decision. This was not a decision made by the Park. They were and continue to be very supportive of our efforts. If you're gonna give me a headache, please bring me an aspirin! http://www.forttaylorpyrates.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commodore Swab Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Maybe if the participants refuse to perform a battle at all under these restraints, a clear message would be sent? An argument could be made that you are not performing in the battle due to safety reasons. A flash guard makes cleaning much more difficult, can make it difficult to get a prick in to clean the vent, and can affect lock operation if the lock was not designed to have one. Igniting FF in the pan promotes faster fouling. Combined these promote misfires in a weapon that otherwise would not misfire. Using the same cartridge to fire and prime from you are either having to prime first (which can lead to an accident that happend very recently in St. Augustine) or hop you saved enough powder to prime after loading. If the pan flashed but not the charge then you will need to break open another cartridge for use as priming powder throwing off the amount of powder going down the barrel. Just some thoughts on giving a reason other than "I don't want to install a flash guard and frizzen stall" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Brand Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 I have to be serious???? Heh. Only as serious as a 21st Century Teacher portraying an 18th Century Pirate. On another note, they have a great forge at the fort. Any plans to roll up your sleeves and forge some new goods? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Jim Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Their playground, their rules. I will be installing and aging a fashguard to make it blend in as much as possible.I may have to get/make a longer frizzen screw, but it is what it is. I will be practicing priming from the cartridge. According to the FPS manual, priming for carbines and pistols is to be done after loading the barrel. My occupational hazard bein' my occupation's just not around... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commodore Swab Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 To help "age" your flash guard polish it bright removing all traces of the coating thats on it, install it and flash your pan a half dozen times (FF would be a good powder to use to make sure things are working smoothly for the fort) then just wash it off when you clean the rest of your lock and you will get a decent patina in time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Jim Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 I do appreciate the thought Capt. Jim, I hope that my comments are not taken as a slam to you. Just don't think much of the regulations Ft Taylor settled on is all. Bo No worries, mate. I pitch out ideas and then let 'em go, so I never take rejection of an idea as personal rejection. About that brass bowl knuckle guard: put it on and attach a BA blade below the stock, baaaaad arse cutlass pistol! My occupational hazard bein' my occupation's just not around... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Jim Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 To help "age" your flash guard polish it bright removing all traces of the coating thats on it, install it and flash your pan a half dozen times (FF would be a good powder to use to make sure things are working smoothly for the fort) then just wash it off when you clean the rest of your lock and you will get a decent patina in time One ahhh, interesting, way to age brass is to use ammonia fumes. Or, if you have no ammonia but do have a cat, just bury it in the cat box. Aged in no time. Wash before use... My occupational hazard bein' my occupation's just not around... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commodore Swab Posted October 14, 2012 Share Posted October 14, 2012 For those interested I tested my "safe" musket this morning (safe in that it has a flash guard and frizzen stall) using FF instead of the regular priming powder and these are the results. . . Using my "reliability test" the musket has a tuned lock that typically will flash the pan 20/22 or better. Using the older flint that is in the musket and the flash guard and FF she scored 11/20 with the first misfire on shot 4. Washing the lock to clear away the residue and removing the guard (no knapping of the flint) and simply changing the powder and removing the flash guard the score went up to 14/20 the first misfire happening on shot 8 (remember the flint has now been sparked over 40 times without knapping). By simply brushing away the residue and finally knapping the flint the score went up to 17/20 the first misfire on shot 11. By the time the "test" was finished the flint had been used/sparked over 60 times and if you remember it was not a new flint when the test began. Believeing that the chance of misfires is so much greater with a musket firing FF with a guard and then testing to confirm I will not be taking my musket into the field knowing that I will be dealing with a less than reliable weapon. At Fisherman's Village this year all the flintlocks combined averaged over 90% fire rate, at Stuart we scored 100% in the weapons demonstrations (there were misfires in the compettition to see who could score the highest before a misfire, once you misfired you were out), proper priming powder was used without flash guards being installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Jim Posted October 14, 2012 Share Posted October 14, 2012 Yes, Chad, we know: 4F sparks better and 3F makes a more consistent blank "boom". No one is contesting that. We're convinced. I never use anything but 4F to prime and 3F for blanks and I use flasks for both. But the fact remains we are playing on their turf with their rules and no amount of arguing about the powder regs is going to change that. Perhaps in the future this will change, as well as changes to include some other weapons like wheel-locks and match-locks, but for now it is what it is. Include a wipe-down of the frizzen, pan and flint in your loading routine and review your misfire/flash in the pan safely measures and all will be safe, if not consistent. Now let's go play...46 days left! My occupational hazard bein' my occupation's just not around... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt. Bo of the WTF co. Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 Better include "L" shaped vent picks if you are taking the field. Can't use a standard pick with a flashguard. Bo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Jim Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 Aye, hadn't thought of that yet. Not yet got my guard and so haven't practiced. My occupational hazard bein' my occupation's just not around... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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