Early 18th century civilian gentlemans frock coat

[PLUNDERING PYLOS PARKER]

wanting to know what types of materials would be accepted for early frock coats 18th century between 1700-1730. & 1730-1760. I understand wool, linen, and brocade was used. My question is are there different weights for wool? For a frock coat what is the standard weight? Is it a suit weight (light), if ya want to do a light weight coat?

Also what type of buttons other than pewter would be good. I was recommended to use large size up to a 1" round diameter, keeping the button holes between 1 1/2 "- 2".

I am looking for Traders/Sutlers who sell period fabric and buttons,does anyone know of anyone other than, Jastownsend,Fugawee,Panther Primitives,Carolina Calicos

as soon as i learn how to down load a picture here i could show you pirates the coat i wanna have made.

last but not least, Does anyone or has anyone ever used oilcloth to make any type of garmet? I am looking to make a Greatcoat out of oilcloth canvas (treated) , view Panther Primitives catalog.Its dark brown in color.

make sure to keep yer powder dry!

[PLUNDERING PYLOS PARKER]

you can visit this 18th century gentlemans frock coat in Brown on, sutlers.co its an england tailor that does a variety of circas. view the brown frock coat made out of wool, hanging on a coat rack.they are using pewter floral buttons,

What type of wool is this & what weight do ya think it maybe?

what i am looking to do is shorten up the sleeves, put pleats in the back, wanting to do burgandy in color,

any suggestions or opinions may help me decide on many things, thank you, corey

I am on Facebook also under piratetrader@charter.com and have photos of this coat in my albums as well.

[Jas. Hook]

PPP -

For fabric also see Burnley & Trowbridge and Wm. Booth Draper

Oil cloth look at Scarlet Scarab and J.P Soule

Jas. Hook

[PLUNDERING PYLOS PARKER]

thank you Jas. Hook, indeed made an order with Wm. Booth Draper, today i ordered the Claret Red Broadcloth 60" wide 100% wool 18-24 oz weight 6 yards. 20.00 a yard., also found oil cloth from Period Fabric for 12.00 a yard-thats half the cost of panther primitves. i will check out the other recommendations you gave, thank you

[jendobyns]

PPP -

For fabric also see Burnley & Trowbridge and Wm. Booth Draper

Oil cloth look at Scarlet Scarab and J.P Soule

Jas. Hook

You can't go wrong with either Wm. Booth or Burnley & Trowbridge. Also if you want to have a coat made, and correctly, you might want to get in touch with Neal Hurst http://www.nhursttailor.com He is a journeyman tailor trained in Williamsburg. Fantastic guy, amazing work, really knows his stuff. The only way you might do better is to have Mark Hutter make it. Of course after you get something from him, you may never want to get it dirty *G*

[Grymm]

Interlinings, especially at CF, and batting for the pleaty bits make a big difference in how a coat hangs, a wee bit of padding in the slight hollow 'tween shoulder and pecs gives a nice period shape too.

[jendobyns]

Interlinings, especially at CF, and batting for the pleaty bits make a big difference in how a coat hangs, a wee bit of padding in the slight hollow 'tween shoulder and pecs gives a nice period shape too.

Oh, yes, it certainly does. Especially if you use some buckram along the CF, too--keeps it from flopping forward and gives some support to buttons and button holes.

I am curious about the padding "'tween shoulder and pecs" though. Something I haven't seen yet. Do you have a visual (inside of a coat, perhaps?)

[Cascabel]

Interlinings, especially at CF, and batting for the pleaty bits make a big difference in how a coat hangs, a wee bit of padding in the slight hollow 'tween shoulder and pecs gives a nice period shape too.

Oh, yes, it certainly does. Especially if you use some buckram along the CF, too--keeps it from flopping forward and gives some support to buttons and button holes.

I am curious about the padding "'tween shoulder and pecs" though. Something I haven't seen yet. Do you have a visual (inside of a coat, perhaps?)

.......And what, exactly is the "CF" ????

[PLUNDERING PYLOS PARKER]

so is this a period technique? i am curious like cascabel, CF?

[jendobyns]

so is this a period technique? i am curious like cascabel, CF?

Yes, Grymm and I are talking about period techniques (at least I think he is!). And CF is "center front". So the two sides of the coat where the buttons and button holes go. It requires some reinforcement because it's a stress point. Buckram (real, period buckram) is used for that. Period buckram was made from linen (coarse) or sometimes old sails, painted with Gum Tragacanth (sometimes called Gum Dragon). Stinks like cheap disinfectant, but the results are great!