Daniel Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 So I know a place where I can get blue and white checked linen, which I know is period material for a sailor's shirt. Does anybody know where I can get a period pattern for cutting and sewing it? Showing what kind of cuffs, collar, pleats, and stuff like that to use? Anything from 1680 to 1750 would be close enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jendobyns Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Well, do you want a commercial pattern, or a cutting diagram? Machine or hand sewing this? Probably the best person to consult would be Captain Sterling. In the mean time, I'll look through my sources for earlier period shirts. So far I'm only finding 1750 and onward (where I've spent most of the last two decades). But I know there's earlier period stuff around here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 Just a cutting diagram. I'm going to hand sew with silk thread (couldn't find linen thread). I found a diagram here from 1769 which looks pretty good: http://www.marquise.de/en/1700/howto/maenner/18hemd.shtml, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 By the way, I was wrong about the blue and white checked linen; it was only 51% linen and 49% rayon. So I'm going with a plain linen instead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jendobyns Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 Just a cutting diagram. I'm going to hand sew with silk thread (couldn't find linen thread). I found a diagram here from 1769 which looks pretty good: http://www.marquise....er/18hemd.shtml, That's too funny, I was about to send you that link! It might say 1769, but by the time things get published in that time period, the information has been used for a decade or more, so you're pretty safe. And the method doesn't really change. If you have trouble with the gussets (which I doubt you will) there is at least one online tutorial for that. Also, Burnley and Trowbridge sell various grades of linen sewing threads. I am using an 80/3, 60/2 and 50/3 weight between three different projects (sort of depends on what's available in the color I need). The white linen is the finest, I think that's the 80/3 (it's really fine, almost looks like cotton sewing thread). The trick is to use short lengths of thread so it doesn't unravel. Wax also works if you're just sewing an under garment in linen. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt. Sterling Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 (edited) William Booth, draper also sells linen thread...also I think he carries a blue & white linen, not sure of the weight though.. I would do a test on those sizes provided first in cheap fabric...as most provided are usually too small...also remember you aren't seeing too many tall collars until later in the 18th century. Also check out a book called, help me here Jen, Rural Pennsylvania clothing...helpful with the instructions... Edited October 21, 2011 by Capt. Sterling "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt. Sterling Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 Author for above book, Ellen Gehert "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jendobyns Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 William Booth, draper also sells linen thread...also I think he carries a blue & white linen, not sure of the weight though.. I would do a test on those sizes provided first in cheap fabric...as most provided are usually too small...also remember you aren't seeing too many tall collars until later in the 18th century. Also check out a book called, help me here Jen, Rural Pennsylvania clothing...helpful with the instructions... Yep, that would be one of them. And the giraffe like collars definitely aren't in yet, although though the book on shirts seems to indicate their size overlaps (no time at the moment to analyze this). I need to look at this further. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Posted October 30, 2011 Author Share Posted October 30, 2011 OK, the shirt is as done as it's going to get before Halloween; everything is finished except the slit gussets and the stitching on the hem. For the cuffs, would buttons or hooks and eyes be more period? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jendobyns Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 Buttons, especially linked buttons (the forerunner of cuff links). Although the norm in our time is to do them like modern shirts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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