1860 Cutlass Tune Up

[Jas. Hook]

Any thoughts on converting an reproduction 1860 brass cup hilt cutlass into a more GOP correct piece?

Jas. Hook

Edited August 4, 2010 by Jas. Hook

[Cascabel]

Any thoughts on converting an reproduction 1860 brass cup hilt cutlass into a more GOP correct piece?

Jas. Hook

Save the blade and trash the rest. Make an entirely new hilt in either brass or steel. Anything you do to the existing hilt will not hide it's origin.

>>>> Cascabel

[Black Mark Morgan]

Is this a sword you already own or are you contemplating a purchase? The blade of the m1860 Navy cutlass is a bit heavy for the typical cutlass/hanger of the GAoP. Fitting a hilt to it is a bit of a challenge. I agree with Cascabel, though, there's nothing to be salvaged from the hilt that is consistent with the era.

For my money, unless your'e really attached to it, I'd sell the whole sword to a young piratical boy who doesn't know the difference and get yourself a better weapon to work with from the start. Replicas of the British 1742 Infantry hangar can be had for $100 or less if you shop around, and You could modify this sword to make it more acceptable. Neumann'sSwords and Blades of the American Revolution shows a wire wound grip on a 1690s model that is similar to the 1742 Infantry Hanger.

Good Luck.

Black Mark Morgan.

[Jas. Hook]

Yes, I kinda' like the blade but as the sword was a beater that I purchased used and fixed up a bit so there's no great loss. It might bear some experimental tinkering with a new hilt without any great expenditure.

I'd rather invest in a Baltimore if more than a few dollars are involved for hilt and handle material.

Thanks all for the advice.

Jas. Hook

[wes1761]

I built a few Roman Gladius' and for the grip I went to the local Petsmart and picked some of the white sterilized cow bone for dog chews. It is odor free and a nice white. Usually they are hollow, and they work really nice with files and sanding. Remember to wear a dust mask though, as the bone dust is carcinogenic.

I am in the process of re-working one right now, and also waiting for a Cold Steel cutlass to arrive so I can re-work that one too. Check with your local scrap yard or recycling place for brass to re-do the guard. Or contact me and I can get you brass, copper, and I might have bronze in the basement too.....

Wes

[Jas. Hook]

Thanks Wes -

There's never an end to ideas here.

Jas. Hook

[Jas. Hook]

Any thoughts on converting an reproduction 1860 brass cup hilt cutlass into a more GOP correct piece?

Jas. Hook

Save the blade and trash the rest. Make an entirely new hilt in either brass or steel. Anything you do to the existing hilt will not hide it's origin.

>>>> Cascabel

Ahoy, Cascabel -

It be time to start that project... without any pommel to unscrew, any clue as to hilt's disassembly??????

Thankee sir.

Jas. Hook

[wes1761]

Did you happen to have a picture of the hilt?

Sometimes on the pommel there is a "hidden" nut, made to appear a part of the whole thing as opposed to a acorn nut staring out from it.....might be there.

Do it look like this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item5889ad4cf5

or this:

http://www.vincelewis.net/cutlass.html

4th pic down under 1860....

Wes

Edited September 10, 2010 by wes1761

[Cascabel]

Any thoughts on converting an reproduction 1860 brass cup hilt cutlass into a more GOP correct piece?

Jas. Hook

Save the blade and trash the rest. Make an entirely new hilt in either brass or steel. Anything you do to the existing hilt will not hide it's origin.

>>>> Cascabel

Ahoy, Cascabel -

It be time to start that project... without any pommel to unscrew, any clue as to hilt's disassembly??????

Thankee sir.

Jas. Hook

Usually this type of sword uses the type of construction where the end of the tang is peened into a slightly countersunk recess, and then ground off flush, and polished smooth. You can carefully grind the tang and pommel down far enough to remove the peened area, (not very far, maybe 1/8"), and then simply drive the whole guard, and handle off of the tang by striking it at the front using a block of wood to prevent damage to the brass parts that you may want to save for future use. Depending on how long your new hilt assembly works out, you may need to weld a bit of extra length on to the tang to be able to do a similar attachment of the new hilt. Or you may want to weld on a piece of threaded rod to use a screw-on type of pommel, which can also be peened in place for added security. If you are planning to do any welding on it, be certain that what ever type of steel you use will not become hard from the heat of welding, as you will not be able to spread it by peening. Also, if you are planning to fight with it, you can create a brittle area at the weld which can break under stress if you use the wrong material.

>>>>> Cascabel

[Jas. Hook]

Wes, Cascabel -

Thanks for the help. It does appear to be peened over ever so slightly and lays flush. I'll give it a go.

Thankee both.

Jas. Hook