Pockets

[Captain McCool]

So I know there were about a million different pocket variations in the GaoP, but currently I'm trying to make a new waistcoat, and I'm looking to use a very basic, "classic" design. Just plain pocket flaps, probably scalloped, with three buttons each. So far though I'm at a loss when it comes to the construction. I've seen a few patterns of period frock coats where the pockets have a sort of inverted-triangle-shaped opening, which looks interesting and pleasing to my eye, but I don't really know how to do it. I doubt welt pockets are particularly period, so I wouldn't do those, but I want to do something slightly more interesting than just a srtaight slit turned inside out.

I'm also confused as to how to attach the flap itself. Is it inserted into the slit and finished with the rest of the pocket? Or is it sewn onto the top of the outside of the waistcoat? And if so, how do I avoid that horrible "puffy" look you often see on amateur costumes (especailly the ones with false pockets - yuck!). I've seen some pictures of movie costumes that have the triangular pocket opening, and they appear to have the flap stictched onto the top, rather than inserted into the slit (specifically those from "Pirates of the Caribbean" and "Perfume." I know, I know, not great sources, but still...).

So clearly people out there do make this kind of pocket, but I cannot find a resource that details HOW. I've scoured the internet for a tutorial, but I can find none. Part of the problem may be that I don't know what this type of pocket is specifically called.

If it is indeed a period pocket design, I'd realy like to use it for future historical costuming, but first I need to actually figure out how to make it.

Does anyone here have any insight on this? Any advice will help! Thanks!

[Korisios]

If i look at this site, go to: uniforms/coat... you might get an idea.

To me the packet flap is clearly sewn on top of and slightly above the triangular slit.

I would say: hold the flap upside down and inside out, slightly above the slit then stichs throw flap and coat front panel.

Maybe in two rows of stiches for strength then fold the flap down. If everything is ok the flap would then cover the slit with the front of the flap foreward.... on some pictures on this site it also lookes as if the have been sewing also throw the top of the flap flattening the fold a bit...

But hey I am an beginner myself you know...

I'm shure there are more experiensed people around here...

[THE wench]

Hi there Capt......Here's how I do it ... 1. Mark pocket placement 2 Cut fabric pocket either way (three hoops or two or flap) sew three seams leaving the top open..iron and turn 1/2 inch seam allows good seating so you dont have to top stitch 3. cut two pieces of muslim 1/2 inch bigger than you want the finished pocket 4. place one piece of muslim on top of your chalked pocket line and the other on the bottom of your chalked line..leave at least a 1/2 inch gap...this gap can be smaller but it is the "Grip seam for the inside pocket) 5. sew top above line ...sew bottom muslim beneath line 6. cut along chalk line this should leave a 1/4 inch seam top and bottom Iron seams well 7. turn both pieces to the inside of the coat and pull them together along the side seams fiddle until the front looks tidy 8 sew sides and bottom 9. hand or machine sew top "Show" flap turning top seam inside itself..(or you can make the complete pocket already turned inside top seam before you put it on the finished coat THE wench

[michaelsbagley]

The below link is to the pattern that just about everyone who does pirate era re-enacting uses (or the few available commercial patterns are based on)

Link to 1715 to 1730 waistcoat pattern

The shape of the pocket is pretty visible and is not to hard at all to scale up to full size.

[Captain McCool]

The below link is to the pattern that just about everyone who does pirate era re-enacting uses (or the few available commercial patterns are based on)

Link to 1715 to 1730 waistcoat pattern

The shape of the pocket is pretty visible and is not to hard at all to scale up to full size.

Right, I've definitely seen that, so that makes sense as far as the shape goes. But it's really the technical aspects of making a pocket like that which puzzle me. It seems like it should be very simple when you look at it, but I'm a total novice, and I'm learning as I go.

I'm concerned that if I simply sew the flap on, upside down, with the right-side of the flap to the right-side of the waistcoat, and then turn it down, it's going to keep popping up, creating that "puffy" look you often see on hastily made Halloween costumes. Perhaps, as Korisios said, I could top stitch it afterwards so it would lay flatter? I'm just not sure that would look very nicely finished. Or that this method is period correct, for that matter.

[Silkie McDonough]

The flap attached independently of the pocket.

I did my first pockets incorrectly. Try this method.

The pocket has two layers (A)the front of the pocket and (B)the back of the pocket. Attach the front of the pocket to the outside of the © coat and then turned inside the coat. Prick-stitch the edged of the opening to keep it neat. Then the back of the pocket( can be attached to the front of the pocket (A) The coat has a lining so the raw edges of the pocket are concealed. Then attach the flap in the down position (edges all finished) above the pocket opening on the outside. If you sew it upward and then let it drop down it may not lay flat. Mine didn't. Still have to redo that one.

Does that make any sense?

[Korisios]

What about ironing???

[Captain Midnight]

One of the things that I do with my pocket flaps which usually have three buttons is to make only the center button and button hole actually functional. The two outer buttons on the edges of the flap are just sewn to an uncut button hole. This way, you don't have to undo three buttons to get into your pocket, only one. I don't know if this was actually done in period, though. Can anyone comment about that idea?

[Silkie McDonough]

What about ironing???

I am assuming that this was directed towards me. It didn't work for some reason. Fortunately it is the waistcoat pockets that are not right, the captains tailor made my coat and the work is MUCH better than any of the sewing I did on my waistcoat.

[Captain McCool]

Thanks for all the help folks! I hope I ca figure this out...

Does anyone know where one might find pictures or a step-by-step tutorial for something like this? Specifically period instructions?

For that matter, period lining instrunctions in general might be helpful.

[Jack Roberts]

Now I didn't do the nifty "triangle" pocket openings as in the period pockets. I just did a straight cut.

I sew my pockets in outer front pieces first, then I'll construct the rest of the outer shell.

This makes it possible to tuck the linings inside the garment.

Check these out.

Now when you sew the linings in, I sew them on the outside and push them through to the inside. Vintage Pocket making

This is a website I used as a guide. Not necessarily PC but it gave me the right idea.

Hope this helps.

[Captain McCool]

Hey, thanks! Great photos too!

And actually, I'm pretty excited, because I just got a JP Ryan 1750's frock coat pattern, and it explains just what I was wondering about the pocket thing!