Browning yer weapons

[Ivan Henry aka Moose]

Just wondering what technique is used to brown the lock mechanisms on firelocks. Is there more than one way or one really good one?

[Dutchman]

moose, i'm not sure what does work but I can tell you what doesn't work! I sold a perfectly good petersoli queen anne for two that had been acid washed and browned- they looked great. The browning/blueing "supposedly" will not adhere well to the finish unless washed. After a few weeks of sitting in their cases, with silica, I found two well rusted locks and barrels. Every few months, I have to neutralize the metal with a baking soda paste and spend more time than I should oiling. They are also more prone to collecting powder residue fowling the vent and pan. Thats one of those lessons learned I guess.

[Duchess]

Birchwood Casey makes a browning solution called Plum Brown. It does need to be THOROUGHLY cleaned to neutralize the process and then kept well oiled. The finish is durable, but it takes more maintenance than a conventionally blued piece.

[Duchess]

The Link

http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/blueing_index.asp?categoryID=1&subcat=5&prodcat=73

[callenish gunner]

I have used this product for years and once it is neutralized with a baking soda wash, and linseed oiled or renaissance waxed it doesn't continue to rust. I have long-rifles that I did 30 years ago that still just need usual cleaning and oiling.

From Track of the Wolf

[Dutchman]

gunner, whats renniasance waxing?

[callenish gunner]

Renaissance Wax is a crystalline wax used on weapons and artifacts to keep corrosion down Restoration products

[madPete]

I used the Birchwood Casey Plum brown on my Traditions Kentucky rifle kit.

The Browning looks great. Maintenance wise it has been easier to maintain than the shiney finish on my former '61 Springfield.

It is more work to apply than some finishes, with heating and such. I'd have to read the directions again, but I remember it was a bit more labor intensive to apply.

Edited March 16, 2010 by madPete

[Commodore Swab]

I browned a lock (browning solution from dixie) and I must say it took a long time but did not require heat. Heat could be used as an option. On my pistol (before I got the browning solution) I tore it down sanded and cleaned it down to bare metal. I then applied 1 light coat of bluing. I used this gun, left it out sometimes didnt clean for long times letting it rust. I tore it down again and cleaned all the rust off with steel wool and have kept it oiled. I must say it looks more authentic and much better than the browning I recently did, of course "aging" a gun this way takes alot of time.

[Duchess]

Let me clarify, the maintenance portion of my comment was about the period immediately after browning. If you just clean it with hot water it will continue to rust. It must be cleaned with baking soda, completely scrubbed all nooks and crannies, or it will continue to rust. The nice thing about this process, from my experience, is that it is much less time consuming than rust bluing/browning and much less finicky than Belgian bluing. And it's much easier to set up. No tanks, no boilers etc...

[wes1761]

I think it was Laurel Mountain Forge that had a cold browning solution available......I used it awhile back, worked quite nicely..

found it:

http://laurelmountainforge.com/barrel_brown.htm

Wes