From Scratch event sleeping tent?

[Tartan Jack]

I'm planning on going the Bagley tetra/wedge route with a single pole. A lot depends on what size painter's canvas I can get my hands on.

Would 8oz or 10oz be better?

-I'm thinking the 10oz. I'm thinking the "12x15" from Lowes, which is finished as 11.5x14.5. As I convert a 17% shrinkage when drying, that gives me: 9.43' by 11.89' to overlap (reinforce for grommets) 1.23' per end to make a 9.43' square. That converts to (roughly) a 9' 5" square IF everything shrink EXACTLY 17% (like THAT ever happens!)

That should fit my 6" self, right? I should have 2 small trunks filled with my crap (clothes, plus plate, cups, silverware-> probably should post a pict of those somewhere. I'll take one when I take my kit shot tomorrow).

Edited June 26, 2009 by Tartan Jack

[Guest]

Yeah... you gotta shrink the canvas or it leaks... (ask Silkie )

If I was to do it over again, I'd cheat and make the bottom edge of my sail/tarp at a 90 degree angle, instead of slanted like a real sail..... Hey... I'm not going to really use it as a sail, and it would set-up easier ...

The painters tarps are a good cheap alternative, but be advised that they are a polly/cotton mix......

[Tartan Jack]

Yeah... you gotta shrink the canvas or it leaks... (ask Silkie )

That is assumed in the shrinkage.

If I was to do it over again, I'd cheat and make the bottom edge of my sail/tarp at a 90 degree angle, instead of slanted like a real sail..... Hey... I'm not going to really use it as a sail, and it would set-up easier ...

The painters tarps are a good cheap alternative, but be advised that they are a polly/cotton mix......

Is there a better source for a large canvas (all cotton) one that won't require extensive sewing?

I need something between now and Lockhouse. Well, I could sleep in the a/c OF the Lockhouse, but what is the fun of that?

Anyways, I need to spend the time between now and then on getting my clothing up to my own minimal acceptance level. So, I won't have time so seam it the way I would like, nor to make the ideal sewn grommets. If I can get good enough canvas, I will later paint the grommets to match the canvas and sew around them to give the look of fully handsewn grommets.

Of course, if it is a huge fail at Lockhouse, I'll just start over . . .

(I'm a bit of an uptight guy on accuracy. So, my first kit hopefully will be better than most newbies. I've sewn kilts, car accessories, Scots bonnets/balmorals, and re-tailored jackets, so I have some idea of what I am doing -I think- and how to do it. I mostly work with wools, canvas, and heavy materials. The linen I used for my shirt is the lightest I have dealt with in a while now.)

Edited June 26, 2009 by Tartan Jack

[theM.A.dDogge]

I need something between now and Lockhouse. Well, I could sleep in the a/c OF the Lockhouse, but what is the fun of that?

i heard the Lockehouse was Haunted....

ok... ...maybe i told more than i heard... ...but there are some stories about the place....just watch out for the "scary baby"...

....nearly had to change me drawers

[Ivan Henry aka Moose]

There are no material make up listed on the Home Depot Tarps, but if it's not 100% cotton canvas, it would be a mighty keen eye that could tell. They look really good imo.

[callenish gunner]

MAdDogge, you just like crapping in your pants B)

[michaelsbagley]

There are no material make up listed on the Home Depot Tarps, but if it's not 100% cotton canvas, it would be a mighty keen eye that could tell. They look really good imo.

Not a good point of reference.... But years ago, when I was still living in Canada, the Home Depots there had their canvas drop sheets listed as 100% cotton... They had some cheaper, synthetic ones as well. But I do distinctly recall seeing some cotton ones, no more than 5 years ago,,,

[Capn' Mac]

I happen to have one on hand still in it's package. It says 100% canvas but has no indication as to the what it is actually made of. I can tell you that my wife and I use one as a kitchen canopy that we treated with Kanvac. We had an event over memorial day and were in a pretty constant on and off down poor and I can attest that our canopy did not leak even once. That's why we picked up another so we can add it as a wind break.

[Ivan Henry aka Moose]

What is Kanvac? Where can I get it?

I happen to have one on hand still in it's package. It says 100% canvas but has no indication as to the what it is actually made of. I can tell you that my wife and I use one as a kitchen canopy that we treated with Kanvac. We had an event over memorial day and were in a pretty constant on and off down poor and I can attest that our canopy did not leak even once. That's why we picked up another so we can add it as a wind break.

[Capn' Mac]

Well it would help if I spelled it correctly to start with. Sorry about that. It’s called Canvak. I buy mine from the local Army Surplus but you can find it at places like Sportsman’s Warehouse or Cabela’s. Here’s a few online resources:

http://www.cabelas.com/prod-1/0005871513996a.shtml

http://www.mytarp.com/canvak-waterproofing-compound-gallon-can.aspx

http://outfitterssupply.blogspot.com/2006/08/waterproofing-canvas-wall-tent.html

I use it with an outdoor sprayer from Home Depot and coat the canvas really well. Leave it out to cure for 24-48 hours but out of direct sunlight. Once it has cured you should be good to go. Reapply a thin new coat each season and you’ll be nice and dry. We did our 8’ x 11’ 12’x 16’ wall tent with 2 and a half gallons and in two days of heavy, heavy rain and a little hail our canvas tent from Panther and our Home Depot painters tarp kept us bone dry.

[Cascabel]

For what it's worth......

Many years ago, when I fooled around with canvas tents, current wisdom held that you should not allow anything to come in contact with the inside of your tent during a rain storm, as it would induce a leak at the point of contact. I always made sure of nothing touching the inside when I loaded my gear inside. Never had a leak, so I guess it worked !!

>>>> Cascabel

[Guest]

If you do get a leak from touching the inside..... just run your finger from the leak down to the lower edge, and the water will follow that instead of dripping inside the tent or tarp.....

[Capt. Sterling]

There are no material make up listed on the Home Depot Tarps, but if it's not 100% cotton canvas, it would be a mighty keen eye that could tell. They look really good imo.

Not a good point of reference.... But years ago, when I was still living in Canada, the Home Depots there had their canvas drop sheets listed as 100% cotton... They had some cheaper, synthetic ones as well. But I do distinctly recall seeing some cotton ones, no more than 5 years ago,,,

hmmm the ones in Lowes are still listed as 100% cotton, at least in Virginia...

[Jack Roberts]

But if you need something simple and cheap, can you really worry about absolute protection?

Ive noticed that even the big wall tents aren't all the weather tight either. When I'm by myself I don't really care if things aren't completely weather resistant but when my family is there then I worry about it.

[Kate Souris]

The painters tarps are a good cheap alternative, but be advised that they are a polly/cotton mix......

Is there a better source for a large canvas (all cotton) one that won't require extensive sewing?

Jack....Michael and I were talking about it and happened upon the realization that our first tent (a Viking Geteld from when we were doing Viking schtuff...) was made entirely out of 100% cotton canvas that we purchased at WalMart. I pre-shrunk it (and dyed it a madder red color) in the washer and dried it on high heat. Michael thought that it would take about 7-8 yards before shrinking. It was $4.44 per yard (about $35 if you buy 8 yards)...And I think you would only really have to do one flat felled seam on a sewing machine. Don't make the stitches too tight though, out friend Meghan learned that the hard way as too tight stitches made leak points in one of the getelds that she made. Now that I think about it, she handsewed that out of wool....but I would imagine she would offer the same advise with cotton canvas.

Oh and also, we will be bringing the tarp tent that weekend if either you or Mr. Tignor doesn't get his respective abode finished....either of you or both are more than welcome to use it. :)

[Calico Jack]

I've no photos ready to hand, but we have actually used a small wedge tent built out of abused sail canvas and spars and oars. Cotton canvas, true, but it's use was sails, not tents, so it is essentially "untreated." Conventiently, it does not leak at all despite.

It's built, then, in an "A-frame" style, crossed oars for the ends, the spar for the horizontal; and the canvas which has been cut and stitched into wedge-form still shows the obvious marks and lines and wear of having been a functioning boat sail.

Works fine. Yes, not something "on the cheap" unless you happen to have the ingredients laying around, ready to hand. Still, it looks exceedingly makeshift, despite being a fully functional wedge tent.

I suppose the point is that "PC" authentic might relate to condition and apparent source of materials, even more than to form.

[madPete]

Just thought I would add my experience...

A couple years ago I built a tent for my civil war reenacting using the

Home Depot (Lowes) canvas paint tarps, and just recently made a small fly

as well.

It is not completely period correct, but I did incorporate some handi-work that

others might decide is useful.

Make sure you get the heaviest and densest weave you can find, wash it.

Some seams will fray which you will need to redo.

I left the existing sewn seams where I could to minimize work (I planned

to redo later, yeah right... I have time for that).

Instead of grommets, I used some waxed sinew from Tandy. Make sure you

reinforce the areas with 2-3 layers of canvas. Cut holes slightly larger than

the rope you are using and use a button hole stitch with the sinew.

I did this for the stake tie-downs - two holes, knot the rope on the inside:

I did this for the ties on the entrance (reinforced in back) with rope knotted on each side:

Getting a little better on the new fly (all new work was handstitched):

Finished product has lasted two years ( I expect the fly to last as well):

madPete

(Omar the tentmaker - I am not...)

[Silver]

that is a excellent job. i know you put a lot of time and thought into it. i also made a fly useing the lowe's drop cloth "heavy duty" made it about 10yrs ago and it is still in great shape. i like the work on the gromments.

[Bright]

Two tents and fly from painters drop clothes from lowes ;-}

contact Kopcho@Hotmail.com for info on their construction

[madPete]

Nice job to both Bright and L. Silver!

I wouldn't have guessed they will last 10 years but it makes sense.

It just shows there are alternatives to spending money.

I tend to build a lot of kit on my own, from ideas I get in places like this. Not just to

save money, but to understand the time frame and how they did things.

My projects aren't perfect, but that's not the point. The satisfaction comes with the doing....

Hopefully, our examples will inspire the others that are holding back!

madPete

[madPete]

a note about the poles...

I ripped 2X4s right down the middle and installed a 3/8 or 7/16 bolt screwed into the top, then cut the head. I use a cross bar on top that fits over the bolts (for the tent). I did find

that the poles can spit easily if you aren't careful taking it down though.

I wrapped the first couple inches of the top of the poles with sisal twine (tightly).

Then goop it up with elmers glue. Haven't had a problem with poles splitting since!

madPete