The Dress of Death - Mourning Attire for the Late 17th Century

[Cheeky Actress]

This is a spin off of the mourning practices thread -

Here is a picture of Henrietta Maria, Lady Ashburnham (1686/7-1718).

The original portrait was probably painted in 1710, when Henrietta Maria became a widow at the age of twenty-three. Her first husband, John, 4th Earl of Anglesey, died after only four years of marriage.

As you can see, she wears the attire of ‘First Mourning’ for our time period. She wears no jewelry. The fabric is flat and dull and her head is covered.

Here is another picture - this one of Lady Fenwick

Edited April 27, 2009 by Cheeky Actress

[LadyBarbossa]

Fantastic finds, Cheeky. :) Especially the first one.

I'm kicking myself that I didn't keep all that mourning info from a few years ago when attending the 225th of the Battle of Camden, where an 18th c Masonic Funeral was performed in the Field. Some lady was mighty kind to give us all documentation of the time period, whens, whys, etc.

Victoria and Albert's Museum has a Gentleman's Mourning Frock in their collection.

And I couldn't find that Racnet (?) template that had a French man in partial mourning (as it was well past 40 days) and he was wearing grays and whites with black trims and silver. Very nuetral and mildly decorated by this time but very subtle.

~Lady B

[Jack Roberts]

V&A has a Gentleman's oufit? Mmmm, musta missed it. Maybe it was for the new exhibit that now open.

[LadyBarbossa]

The frock perhaps was not out on the floor but in their stashed away collection. Looks like they had LOTS of stuff in their stashed away collection. Sucks, cause we'd all LOVE to see what they have!

~Lady B

[Capt. Sterling]

And Peter II mourning coat circa 1715-1730

from the V & A's Russian Czars exhibit.

Hmmm looks similar to one I have seen around a few times with a hole in the back from a pistol ball ...

[Cheeky Actress]

Here is the one example of the "Funeral Procession" dress of the late 17th Century.

Note the pallbearers are cloaked in the heavy cloth that is draped over a coffin (casket).

[Cheeky Actress]

Here is another good example of "First Mourning" for the Ladies. This is Katherine Eilliott, she was the Dresser and Woman-of-the-Bedchamber for the Dutches of York. She is shown here in "Widow's Weeds" with black hood, black robe, white undersleeves and white handkerchief. Painting is dated 1687/88.

Lastly, Here is a painting of Eleanore, Duchess of Zell

Edited April 28, 2009 by Cheeky Actress

[Cheeky Actress]

In the class of "What to Wear"...

The fundamental rule applied to the mourning dress of both sexes was that everything must be matt and dull. Reflective surfaces were not permitted. To this end, broadcloth (a plain, heavy wool with a napped finish), and other specially woven dull fabrics, such as crape ( a transparent crimped, dull silk gauze) were necessary.

Shiny shoes were replaced by black ‘cloth’ shoes, dull black gloves, black waistcoat and coat buttons, black stockings and even dull black sword covers and belts.

It wasn’t until the Restoration period that the mourning sash or scarf became popular as a new mourning assessory. The item was made of a dull silk, worn draped diagonally across the left shoulder. As mourning gowns went out of fashion, chief mourners wore only the scarves over their black coats. Black scarves were worn at men’s funerals and white scarves at funerals of women and children.

Edited May 3, 2009 by Cheeky Actress

[Cheeky Actress]

Three Stages of Mourning

Three official degrees of mourning – Full or Deep Mourning, followed by the Second and then finally by Half-Mourning. Now the penalty paid by the less well off for their ambitious desire to emulate aristocratic mourning was the heavy cost of buying all these garments, both for private and for General Court Mourning. It was considered demeaning to be seen to skimp. This showed both lack of respect for the dead and the lack of respect for the ordained social order. It was the combination of these two emotions which gave mourning regulations such a grip on society.

For First, Full or Deep Mourning, the strictest rules were applied. No jewelry, no shiny surfaces and only dull black broadcloth (wool), dull silk and crape were permitted.

For Second Mourning (or Ordinary) , slightly less austere dress was permitted. One could wear trims of white linen would be added and some jewelry (dull).

For Half-Mourning, this offered some relief, for in additional to black, dull mauve and grey were also permitted. Subdued patterns and even silk fabrics were allowed.

Now, as well as private family mourning there was, for those entitled, also Court and General Mournings. Court Mourning was worn by those with direct Court connections, but General mourning involved everyone who could afford it, from the nobility to the new middle class.

The Court Heralds in Britain finally abandoned their efforts to restrict mourning rituals to the upper classes; finding their fruitless attempts to fine or imprison those who disobeyed the law of the land senseless. By the end of the 17th Century, mourning dress had slipped down the social ladder to include the “middle-sort” class who, in their turn used to as an opportunity to display their own social standing.

Edited April 28, 2009 by Cheeky Actress

[Cheeky Actress]

Periods of Mourning during the Late 17th Century

The Mourning Regulations of the Time

Edited April 28, 2009 by Cheeky Actress

[Silkie McDonough]

So, if I am not related to the deceased how long do I have to wear black? Can I just dress for the funeral and then get back to work? lol

[Cheeky Actress]

That's a very good question, Silkie. I guess it depends on several factors:

1. Who Died? As in "The Social Status" of the person who died; and

2. Where do you stand socially? Are you a servant? The New Merchant Class? Have connections with the Court Class?

Again, these are factors that fell on many such people during the late 17th Century. Especially when it came to Court and General Mournings.

In some of the personal diaries and memoirs of this time, many impoverished aristocratic and rising middle-class families (17th Centuries and up ward) make constant references to the anxiety and financial problems caused by the cost of "Fashionable Mourning."

Here's a good example: In 1685, when King Charles II died, a young man named Edmund Verney, who was a student at Trinity College, Oxford, wrote anxiously to his father on February 16th

I cannot fully certifice as yet in this matter, but there aer two or thee fellow commoners of our house of which Mr. Palmer is one, that have bought their 'Black Cloathes", and Plain Muzeline Bands, and Cloathe Shooes, and are now in very strict mourning: and others preparing for it, so that withing this weeks I suppose the greater part, if not all of the University will be in mourning.

The poor boy was in a panic about his social responsibility regarding the passing of King Charles II.

It was several days later that Edmund learned that only those with direct Court Connections were obliged to wear mourning.

Edited April 29, 2009 by Cheeky Actress

[Cheeky Actress]

Mourning Jewlery

The etiquette of wearing such jewlery was just as elaborate as that of the clothes themselves. If one were to wear a shiny, faceted, black jewel whilist in deepest mourning instead of one with a matt surface - YIKES! It could be as socially disastrouse as coming out of mouring too early.

Mourning jewlery served three basic functions; First it acted as a souvenir of the deceased,

Secondly, it was made as a memento mori a reminder to the living of the inevitability of death. Mememto Mori jewlery was worn not only after a berreavement - but all time, as a reminder to the living to lead good lives, and the third function, it was a status symbol dressing - (always present, but subtly unstated in mourning etiquette).

Again, in the First or Deepest period of Mourning - Court rules, which were widely copied outside court circles, instructed men to remove all gold shoe buckles, buttons, watch chains and swords, replacing them with substitutes with matt black finishes.

During the Second/Ordinary period of Mourning - Only black and white gems were permitted. In the 17th Century aristocratic widows favored pearls. Broaches of black stone and pearls along with earrings were also in fashion.

Lastly, during the third/Half-Mouring period - Major changes took place. Ladies were allowed to wear diamonds and, in gradual states, the men were permitted to change from black to silver buttons, buckles and swords.

[LadyBarbossa]

And Peter II mourning coat circa 1715-1730

from the V & A's Russian Czars exhibit.

::points to it::: Oy! Yup! That's it! That's th' coat! Thank ye for postin' it, Sterling. :) Lovely thing.

Hmmm looks similar to one I have seen around a few times with a hole in the back from a pistol ball ...

No comment.

~Lady B

[Cheeky Actress]

Here is an example of a woman's mourning (Second/Ordinary period of Mourning) dated between 1685/1688. (trimmed in white for a child or women's death).

Here is Merchant Mary Diamond's example of the same cut mourning gown, but no white trim.

Edited April 29, 2009 by Cheeky Actress

[Cheeky Actress]

Quakers of the 17th Century

The pomp and circumstance of a 17th Century funeral seemed to be disregarded by the Quakers during this time. They were not one to follow the rules of the social elite. Both men and women of this religious sect were known to dress in browns and grays for their funerals.

Edited May 1, 2009 by Cheeky Actress

[Quartermaster James]

http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O125926/mourning-ring/