Jack Roberts Posted January 17, 2009 Posted January 17, 2009 So I had the oppurtunity to visit the V&A museum yesterday and had a blast. Unfortunately there wasn't a lot of stuff on display from our time period but I was able to find a few things here and there. One of the objects I found was this 1710 waistcoat. Here is what V&A had to say about it. "WAISTCOAT 1710 - 1720 A gentleman wore such a waistcoat informally during the day, with a plain coat and breeches. The coat would have been left ope to display the fashionably patterned silk with the waistcoat buttoned at the waist to show of is and ruffles. SIlk Damask, lined with fustain and silk Made in England So here it is. Sorry its hard to get a full shot in front of the glass. The back More too come next!
Jack Roberts Posted January 17, 2009 Author Posted January 17, 2009 Some interesting things I observed that I will point out. The neck line is bound. Bound with a really narrow piece of fabric. Wow. It also looks that every seam is stitched visibly. Hope that makes sense. Also I've seen the the bottom of the sleeves are not attached. Perhaps for ventilation? (You can refer to the above photo also) Let me also point out the pockets. They have these "tack" stitches. Very interesting. So that what I saw on that piece. Here is a link to the photos for the Waistcoat should you want to peruse them yourself. 1710 Waistcoat Album Now lets discuss.
Capt. Sterling Posted January 17, 2009 Posted January 17, 2009 (edited) Geeze did you get the info along with the sword?? And love the tacking stitches on the pockets... always wondered about that... Edited January 17, 2009 by Capt. Sterling "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
Jack Roberts Posted January 17, 2009 Author Posted January 17, 2009 Yeah, what kind of Quartermaster you take me for?
Capt. Sterling Posted January 17, 2009 Posted January 17, 2009 I left the underside of my silk waistcoat sleeves unstitched, I wonder if the unsewn bit is for ease of movement perhaps... I have heard of this, but tis nice to see an original .... "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
Capt. Sterling Posted January 17, 2009 Posted January 17, 2009 Hope that makes sense. Also I've seen the the bottom of the sleeves are not attached. Perhaps for ventilation? (You can refer to the above photo also) Um the greyish blue fabric is that lining?? or the dress dummy? "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
Capt. Sterling Posted January 17, 2009 Posted January 17, 2009 Yeah, what kind of Quartermaster you take me for? A very good one.... ahem... I hope.... "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
Jack Roberts Posted January 17, 2009 Author Posted January 17, 2009 Um the greyish blue fabric is that lining?? or the dress dummy? Its the dress dummy.
Capt. Sterling Posted January 17, 2009 Posted January 17, 2009 ye are good, remind me to cut ye in for another share... Thanks Jack...these are grand. "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
Jack Roberts Posted January 17, 2009 Author Posted January 17, 2009 So how do you think the seams are constructed? Isn't there a type of flat felled stitch that shows a single line of stitches like that?
Capt. Sterling Posted January 17, 2009 Posted January 17, 2009 (edited) Flat felled, you can usually see both up close... this almost looks as if the fabric is just folded over and stitched down on top... I think I have an idea of what that is... I can show you an example at Blackbeards or if I have time I can photo an example... but it will be awhile before I can do so Edited January 17, 2009 by Capt. Sterling "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
Capt. Sterling Posted January 17, 2009 Posted January 17, 2009 Oh remaining buttonholes after the last one fastened on the bottom... look to be false, are they? "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
Capt. Sterling Posted January 17, 2009 Posted January 17, 2009 Oi, were there no buttons on the sleeves down at the wrist? "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
William Brand Posted January 17, 2009 Posted January 17, 2009 Thank you for taking the time to photograph so many little details, especially the finishing details of the original tailor/seamstress. I was wondering about higher, domed buttons, and if they were period, so this is a great example. Â Â Â
Jack Roberts Posted January 17, 2009 Author Posted January 17, 2009 Oh remaining buttonholes after the last one fastened on the bottom... look to be false, are they? Yes they were uncut. Oi, were there no buttons on the sleeves down at the wrist? There were. Look here buy the sword. 3 buttons of the same kind from the front. Sorry didn't think to get a clear shot of those.
Jack Roberts Posted January 17, 2009 Author Posted January 17, 2009 Also note the bottom not being perfectly cut. Its a tad uneven. This on a higher quality waistcoat.
Capt. Sterling Posted January 17, 2009 Posted January 17, 2009 Did the stitching look something like this... "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
Jack Roberts Posted January 17, 2009 Author Posted January 17, 2009 (edited) Did the stitching look something like this... Aye it did from what I recall. Edited January 17, 2009 by Jack Roberts
Capt. Sterling Posted January 17, 2009 Posted January 17, 2009 Oh remaining buttonholes after the last one fastened on the bottom... look to be false, are they? Yes they were uncut. Oi, were there no buttons on the sleeves down at the wrist? There were. Look here buy the sword. 3 buttons of the same kind from the front. Sorry didn't think to get a clear shot of those. GREAT! Thanks again... sorry must have been blinded by the sword, missed the buttons completely until you...pointed em out. "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
Capt. Sterling Posted January 17, 2009 Posted January 17, 2009 (edited) Aye it did from what I recall. Cool... I know what to do then...that's my old brown waistcoat... I can show you this stitch... Edited January 17, 2009 by Capt. Sterling "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
Jack Roberts Posted January 17, 2009 Author Posted January 17, 2009 Aye it did from what I recall. Cool... I know what to do then...that's my old brown waistcoat... I can show you this stitch... Check this detail out. I'm pretty sure its the same stitch.
Capt. Sterling Posted January 17, 2009 Posted January 17, 2009 Thanks again Jack...great work! I'll keep ye! "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
LadyBarbossa Posted January 17, 2009 Posted January 17, 2009 Ooooo.. :::Drools:::: Fabulous! Thank ye, Roberts. Fabulous piece. Does inspire ye. What kinda stitch is that? A back stitch or a running stitch Or is that some other sort of stitch that I'm completely unaware of? ~Lady B Tempt Fate! an' toss 't all t' Hell!" "I'm completely innocent of whatever crime I've committed." The one, the only,... the infamous!
Mary Diamond Posted January 17, 2009 Posted January 17, 2009 Let me also point out the pockets. They have these "tack" stitches. Very interesting. Thank you so much, Jack! I was distraught over the wear on my riding habit pockets, even after repair (they see a fair bit of use). This should help save them. Oooh, shiny!
Jack Roberts Posted January 17, 2009 Author Posted January 17, 2009 (edited) Ooooo.. :::Drools:::: Fabulous! Thank ye, Roberts. Fabulous piece. Does inspire ye. What kinda stitch is that? A back stitch or a running stitch Or is that some other sort of stitch that I'm completely unaware of? ~Lady B I'm pretty sure it's a type of flatfelled seam. The stitch is probably a running on most of the seams. (I'm sure were the sleeves connect are back stitched for reinforcement. The edges along the outside look to be prick stitched like they should.) I'm just not sure how to construct it. Although I do have an idea. Edited January 17, 2009 by Jack Roberts
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