Need to be stichin me up a new coat

[CaptJackSparrow]

To interface or not to interface.....that is the question. I want the coat to hold it's shape but be "worn" or "used" not brand new stiff, does it matter. Secondly what would be a better fabric for this broadcloth or linen I can't decide, I figger I'd ask ye all who are in the know. I ain't that happy with the the other coat I have.

Jack

[darkRose]

Well sir....

I don't believe in interfacing....if I want some extra hold I will use an extra layer of the material......not interfacing.....and Linen...Linen....linen,

darkRose

[Capt. Westyn Elizabeth Roberts]

Aye, I agree with Dark Rose. And he has some lovely piratey things in his little tent! I've seen them with my own eyes...drooled over them...had to fight the urge not to plunder and steal (the leather frock coat by Thomas), 'cause he's a new pal and a darned nice guy!

I'd have to agree with that idea of no interfacing. Unless you're a super-duper whiz with a sewing machine or needle, interfacing is crap. (Crap=Piratey word? Nah. Probably not.)

Well, I'd say, I'd use a bit of the same material in areas where the coat needs to be stiffer, like in the lapels. Also, that fusible webbing is pretty decent for some things...depends on the material. It could be used to stiffen a bit. Anyhoo, if you're not going to line the entire coat, I'd say use the same kind of material as the coat is made out of. That way, no one can say that you scrimped on that expensive material when the wind whips your lapels back...and those flippin fairies at the Renaissance Festival won't scream at you for "not being period." Ugh.

And I'd use a material that's acceptable in most climates, or at least the one you're more likely to visit in your garb. One cold night in Florida, and I was wishing I had told my mother to line the satin coat I was wearing...in flannel!

But, hey...don't mind me. My next project is going to be an entirely PINK pirate costume. I'm the Captain. I can do whatever I damn well please.

Arrgh!

Capt. WE Roberts

[CaptJackSparrow]

Thankee all fer the reply, I have one other question fer ye. As I be finding mostly light weight linens, I don't think they are what I'm after also the colors are not to my liking I would love, besides black, grays, gray-green, blue gray, dark hunter, green gray, crimson red, and the like. Any specifcs on weight and thread count ye can pass along and maybe yer favorite ports fer acquisision,

Thankx in advance,

Jack

[Duchess]

For durability you're going to want a heavier weight linen. I would suggest checking in the "suiting" section of the fabric store. Alternatively, all my long coats and jackets are made out of brocades or tapestry fabrics, commonly found in the upholstery departments (which will also have nice linens) These fabrics are heavier, hold their shape well and yet wear in to be quite soft and very comfortable. Another bonus to shopping the upholstery department is the size of the bolts. Fabrics in this department will nearly all be sixty inches wide (conversely fashion fabrics are usually 42"). This wide width makes it possible to cut whole panels for coats out of the width and not the length. ie you can buy less yards.

Also wash whatever you buy, just like you intend to wash the finished garment, BEFORE you ever cut anything. Do the same with trims. I found out the hard way trims can shrink as well. I made some pants, preshrunk the fabric, but not the trim which was down the sides of the legs. After the first wash the trim shrank buy about a third, the pants ended up far to short, and delicately gathered up the side. :)

The Duchess

[Paisley]

But, hey...don't mind me. My next project is going to be an entirely PINK pirate costume. I'm the Captain. I can do whatever I damn well please.

Arrgh!

Capt. WE Roberts

aye...we must be gettin together capt...

two pink pyrates are better than one!

[Hawkyns]

Try this- got to http://www.fabrics-store.com/first.php and type linen in the search window. Will give you lots of types, weights, and options. Mostly, if I need a specific colour, I buy neutral fabric and dye it myself.

For the weight you want though, you may want to try hemp canvas. Wears like iron, has the weight and fall you need, and is probably more period for sailor's garments. Try this http://www.hempsupply.com/fabric/3017.asp

Hawkyns

[Scupper]

mr hawkyns. ye posted in another thread about a seller of frock coats. i tried a goggle search and came up empty. can you furnish a link? My thanks

Scupper

[Rumba Rue]

I totally agree with Duchess. Suiting is probably what you want.

I tend to use a cotton lining if possible, simply for breathability if using heavy tapestry or similar materials.

Rumba Rue

**Save the whales, collect the whole set**

[Captain Emerald Shaunassey]

Jack, et all,

Was recently informed by a costumer friend of mine that she uses buckrum in place of interfacing and/or extra layers of material for lapels and cuffs. Have yet to try that out but, have thought to try it out on the coat I'm going to be making here in the next few weeks. Buckrum works well for hat brims as well as the "crowns" of French Hoods so, I don't see why it wouldn't work for lapels and cuffs.

Keep in mind Jack, you could easily dye the linen to the desired shade with either commercial dyes (such as Rit) or by making your own dye (i.e., coffee and tea dyes, etc).

Just my twain bits ... hope it aids any and all in some form or fashion.

With Respects,

Cap'n Emerald

[CaptJackSparrow]

Thankee much all ya swabs fer the great information upon me subject of question. *tips tricorn in respect*

Jack

[Capt. Westyn Elizabeth Roberts]

P.S. Capt. Jack, you might want to check out our PLUNDER part of this site. It has WAY more info on the entire pirate getup. Plus, check out CAPTAIN TWILL. Also, make sure you check into THE PYRATE PRIMER, put out by NO QUARTER GIVEN. The links to the NQG site are usually posted on the header of this page. I bought the PRIMER book at the PIP Festival, and it's got some really great stuff in there about costuming, characters and other historical tidbits for those interested in periodical piracy. Plus, it keeps you company on those plane and/or car trips. Thanks to the folks at NQG!

Have fun!

Capt. WE Roberts