Jacket Project

[MorganTyre]

Well, I recieved my pattern from Kass the other day and I thought I'd start a thread to track my progress.

Step, the first:

I have to say, as a whole dealing with Reconstructing History has been a pleasure. We experienced a small technical hiccup - the sort of which I've experienced before (I also work in a company with an internet presence) but was a first for Kass - she handled it perfectly, communication was clear between us via e-mail, and I got my pattern in very short order. The pattern itself appears well laid out and I see no obvious problems but of course I wont know for sure until I start putting things together. In addition to the pattern there was a well written article giving historical details as well as extant examples putting everything in the corrent context. The instructions on the otherhand seem slightly vague but I think this is probably much more due to my inexperience than any actual problem with the instructions. I expect everything to clear once I start putting needle to cloth. All in all, I'd say it was well worth the money - this doesn't come lightly as the price tag seems (emphasis on seems) steep and I'm a cheap bastard.

I spent yesterday looking for fabric in my area. Hancock fabrics has a good, relatively light weight wool twill for about $10 a yard and I was able to find some linen CHEAP ($4 a yard) in a dark corner of JoAnn's. My plan is to first make a close fitting vest - sleeveless and collarless first to get me through the South Texas fall and then hopefully get a full jacket (looser fit, collar and probably turn back sleeves) done by winter. For the vest I'm hoping I can get away with two yards of fabric versus the reccomended 3 yards but I wont know for sure until I take a closer look and measure things out. I'll use this thread to keep you posted and get pictures up to track my progress.

[Mary Diamond]

Morgan ~

Congratulations and good luck on your undertaking! Might I recommend, with regards to you $4 linen, that you wash it first? I have purchased the $4 linen (a more open weave natural linen) from JoAnn's in the flat fold/clearance section ~ it shrank considerably, but, goodness, it is soft!

[Captain Midnight]

I've had a good experience with Kass' short jacket pattern as well. Kass herself gives very prompt and courteous service, and I am well pleased with the pattern. The only problem I had with it at all is I believe there is a bit too much of a bend in the elbow of the sleeve pattern, which causes the elbow on the finished garment to "pooch" out too much when your arm is straightened, but this can be easily remedied by just straightening the curve of the pattern a bit before cutting your fabric. Other than that, it is a great pattern. I highly recommend it.

[michaelsbagley]

Morgan ~

Congratulations and good luck on your undertaking! Might I recommend, with regards to you $4 linen, that you wash it first? I have purchased the $4 linen (a more open weave natural linen) from JoAnn's in the flat fold/clearance section ~ it shrank considerably, but, goodness, it is soft!

I would like to very strongly second Mary's recommendation... I too had bought some linen fabric from JoAnn's, and not only did it shrink more than I anticipated, the colour bled quite nastily for the first FEW washings (of course if you are using white or natural coloured linen, bleeding colour won't be an issue for you).

Good luck to you on this endeavor. Looking forward to seeing some pics when your done!

[HildeKitten]

I have several patterns from RH and I love them to death :)

And I have to agree with the others: Kass' service is absolutely fantastic (so is she mind you) ^^

I'm definitely going to get more RH patterns as soon as I have the cash for them :)

[MorganTyre]

Well, the material is bought, the pattern pieces cut, and the first of the sewing started. Unfortunately, due to some time restraints I've decided to not hand-sew the whole thing but instead hand sew the visible stitches only. Though I'm using the jacket pattern this first project is a sleeveless, collarless vest with pockets. So far so good except I've run across a small problem. I've noticed that the shoulder pieces from front to back are not the same size and there are no strike to marks on the pattern so I'm not sure how they are supposed to line up. Are the smaller front shoulder pieces supposed to be centered on the larger back ones or shifted towards the shoulder or collar? As far as I can tell the instructions don't really answer this, nor do the illustrations. Perhaps the larger piece is to be gathered to the same size that the smaller. That didn't seem right though. I'm at a standstill here. If anyone knows, please help.

[michaelsbagley]

Well Morgan,

The sholder pieces should align at the neckline. The peices should be offset at the shoulder for the purpose of attaching a sleeve (which you are not doing).

So align the pattern pieces at the neckline, and when you go to finish the arm hole, trim the arm hole even by removing the excess.

Hope this makes sense. If it doesn't, please speak up, and I will try and explain more thoroughly, or perhaps someone else can chime in and try to explain this better than I have.

[MorganTyre]

I suspected this was the case but wasn't 100%. Thank you very very much. Now on to the pockets.

[MorganTyre]

Ok, here I am so far...

A) The Hat needs to be edged and lined and needs some reblocking after some serious salt water exposure.

Here's the jacket so far. Note the two missing buttons. The buttons were a compromize but will work. I bought up all that was available locally. Only the top button hole (not shown) is done. I'll finish the button holes over the next day or two. The last two buttons are awaiting restocking.

C) The one pocket needs a flap. Also on the need to do soon list.

D) Ignore the palm. It's not present as a prop I was actually using it just prior to the photo.

E) Also ignore the belt. I need something by way of a belt but don't have anything quite right yet.

F) Here's a new set of shoes. Hard to tell from the dark picture but those are cut and modified into latches. They aren't quite right but they are good enough to be passable and I like them. $3 at the local thrift store. Ignore the purple stockings, I don't have anything quite right yet.

G) Meet one of my two mates - this one is Tiger.

[Mary Diamond]

Well met, and well done, Morgan! Always nice to put a face with the name.

I like what you have come up with, and think it is coming along well. Those look like horn buttons? Too bad the sailors palm is not PC (isn't it?), it looks great. Perhaps something similar, plain leather reinforced perhaps? I don't know the historical accuracy, though. The purple socks might work, if perhaps the neckerchief or head scarf were also a purplish shade (and vice versa with the red).

Seems like you are on the right track!

Oh, and I LOVE your Honu ~

[casketchris]

looks very good sir do you have any better pics of the shoes, thats going to be my project this weekend

[MrSnailGrave]

looks good do your slop have pocket and do they tie in back

[MorganTyre]

looks good do your slop have pocket and do they tie in back

Yes to both. Giant pockets on the sides and tie in the back. The slops were actually purchased some time ago. I had been planning on putting together a kit for some time and had finally gotten around to sewing up a shirt when I found out that I had some friends doing a pirate wedding (Some pictures are posted elsewhere on the pub) so I needed slops in short order. Bought them from www.flyingcanoetraders.com after reading a good review on bilgemunky's site.

looks very good sir do you have any better pics of the shoes, thats going to be my project this weekend

I will post pictures tonight if my camera cooperates. The cut-outs are probably too small and I left two sets of lace holes rather than one so the latches are probably too wide but the overall look is decent. Shoes can be one of the hardest things - they'll ruin a look if they are wrong and nobody will really notice them if they are right. I'm hoping mine take me closer to the latter.

Those look like horn buttons? Too bad the sailors palm is not PC (isn't it?), it looks great. Perhaps something similar, plain leather reinforced perhaps? I don't know the historical accuracy, though. The purple socks might work, if perhaps the neckerchief or head scarf were also a purplish shade (and vice versa with the red).

No the buttons are tarnished brass. I'll try to take pictures. As for the roping palm in the picture.... I'm not sure if it's historically accurate or not. I associate them with 18th century seafaring but that's because I basically assume all fancy ropework with 18th C unless I know better and for some reason I mentally tie the palm in with that though it's has nothing to do with it nor do I use mine for that - go figure. It's safe to say that the job the tool was invented for has been around a very very long time and that something had to be used. I'm not sure what but something. The purple socks are going to go, probably giving way to gray. I just needed something for the picture so I stole my wife's (ugh, always knew a picture of me in womens clothing would somehow end up on the internet.)

[Cascabel]

I just needed something for the picture so I stole my wife's (ugh, always knew a picture of me in womens clothing would somehow end up on the internet.)

Aye, no wonder yer ship's cat is looking at you strangely.....

Lookin' good, Shipmate.

>>>> Cascabel

[michaelsbagley]

Looks great Morgan!

I really like the fact that nothing really matches. I think this whole mis-match thing makes it look.... well... more pirate-ey.

Awesome job! Keep up the great work!

[Kenneth]

Awsome Jacket Morgan.....very nicely done!!

[MorganTyre]

Here are the detail photographs I promised earlier.

Here are the shoes. Shoes police, don't bash me too hard. I know they aren't right but I like them and I think they turned out ok. I've not strung new laces yet.

Here's the buttons. Brass ones from Hobby Lobby. They too are a compromise. I like the size, shape, and material and I like that they look flawed, I just wish they weren't all flawed the same way.

[MrSnailGrave]

i think the shose look great im going to make me a pair soon

[Patrick Hand]

Shoes police, don't bash me too hard

Nah... it's not that.....

You know they arn't "quite" right..... but will do for now....

Cool......

I like that they look flawed, I just wish they weren't all flawed the same way.

That's funny..... I made a soapstone mold to make some pewter/solder buttons..... and I wasn't quite happy with how they turned out..... they were a little crude... I figgure that workmen "back them" would have done a much better job of it......

Drat... I just couldn't get the soapstone to couroperate..... flaws and a few bumps.......

It's cool that I made a mold, and made my own buttons..... but I keep looking at them, and thinking..... that they should be finer........

[MorganTyre]

Ok, two photographs of the nearly done short jacket (vest). All that's left is a flap for the pocket and even that I'm sort of debating.