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Appropriate Weaves of Wool


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I searched for this topic, because I suspect it was been hashed out before. But to my surprise, I couldn't find anything about it. I wonder what sort of weaves available today for wool date back to or replicate techniques of the seventeenth century?

As far as I can tell, weaves such as Garbadine appear much too late. Poplin, apparently, dates to the 1400 century, though it was originally made from silk, I guess. Would wool poplin by appropriate for the GAoP?

Also, what is the deal with the box weave? I can't find anything about it that doesn't refer to carpets or chainmail, and can't find a date for it.

"The time was when ships passing one another at sea backed their topsails and had a 'gam,' and on parting fired guns; but those good old days have gone. People have hardly time nowadays to speak even on the broad ocean, where news is news, and as for a salute of guns, they cannot afford the powder. There are no poetry-enshrined freighters on the sea now; it is a prosy life when we have no time to bid one another good morning."

- Capt. Joshua Slocum

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Gabardine is a fine worsted wool twill most often used for making suits today. It dates back as far as twill weaves do -- farther back than you can imagine, Jack.

The patented word "Gaberdine" (note the "e") refers to something quite modern -- a suit wool invented in the 19th century by Thomas Burberry of trench coat fame.

Poplin -- the wool/silk blend -- is very early as you say. It is NOT the cotton or poly poplin you'll find in fabric stores today.

Kersey was a very common wool used by sailors because it is tightly woven and water repellant.

Welsh cotton/Welsh plain is a fuzzy wool (not cotton) used for linings. It's soft and springy and will keep you warm even though wet. Again, popular among sailors.

Plain (tabby) weave wool has been in use since the beginning of time. Wool flannel (NOT the stuff your cotton PJs or sheets are made from) is available in abundance and dates to a very early time. Wool flannel (as it is called today) is typically a 2/1 twill, but 3/1 and 2/2 twills were also in use in the 17th century.

There are a ton more wool types used in the Golden Age of Piracy, but these are the big ones.

And I know just where you can get some! (See the link in my signature)

What do you mean by "box weave"? I'm a weaver and I've never heard of it.

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Building an Empire... one prickety stitch at a time!

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Thank you, m'lady. My impressions of garbadine were informed by Mr. Burberry's invention. I confess that I couldn't see what was so unique about it, but I was deceived by my wiki-fu.

I came across 'box weave' wool whilst searching for tropical weight wool - you can view it here.

I have a number of old wool blankets I can use for my 'cool weather' clothes, but I was specifically looking for something appropriate for summer use. Kass, I don't remember if you give a recommnedation for summer or winter use with the fabrics you have available - do you?

"The time was when ships passing one another at sea backed their topsails and had a 'gam,' and on parting fired guns; but those good old days have gone. People have hardly time nowadays to speak even on the broad ocean, where news is news, and as for a salute of guns, they cannot afford the powder. There are no poetry-enshrined freighters on the sea now; it is a prosy life when we have no time to bid one another good morning."

- Capt. Joshua Slocum

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Box weave... Still never heard of it. We tend to call that weave "monk's cloth". But I guess that doesn't describe it very well if you've never seen monk's cloth. :ph34r:

Anyway, gabardine is an excellent, excellent tropical weight for summer.

Wool flannel is what I wear all summer long. It's heavier than gab, but not too heavy.

Kersey, Welsh cotton... definitely not summer weights.

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Building an Empire... one prickety stitch at a time!

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