How did I do?

[carolinapyrate]

hello all

I sat down and learned how to knit a monmouth cap this weekend and was wonderind how did I do?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/pan...er/DSCF1206.jpg

Did I even come close?

[Gentleman of Fortune]

Can you turn it inside out? I think its the wrong way around.

Here it is for you click challenged

GoF

[carolinapyrate]

here is the reverse side

[Patrick Hand]

You could have used smaller knitting kneedles and made the stitching smaller...... but then they are warmer..... So for a Summer hat, it turned out great.....

I learned how to knit so I could make my own caps.... felted some (that's why I know they are so hot...) and make a thrum cap... that works great in the snow... but you can't wear it after May.... (once again ... way too hot...) (and it looks like I'm having a "Bad Hair Day"....)

Your knitting is a lot more even than mine is.... luckly felting them covers any flaws.......

this is the Felted Thrum cap

this is the Felted monmouth cap

This is my favorite one..... un-felted so I can wear it in summer..... (t's not the best picture to show the cap tho....)

[CrazyCholeBlack]

I agree with Mr. Hand. Of course I also covet his red monmouth cap, so I might be a little biased.

Felted would look better in my opinion. As would tighter, smaller stitches. If you don't mind my saying, it looks a bit like it was knit on one of those knifty kntter knitting looms you get at the craft store. Also, it doesn't appear to have the doubled brim that I've seen on other monmouth caps.

What instructions did you follow?

[capnwilliam]

hello all

I sat down and learned how to knit a monmouth cap this weekend and was wonderind how did I do?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/pan...er/DSCF1206.jpg

Did I even come close?

You did terrible: send it to me to get rid of it!

Capt. William

[carolinapyrate]

If you don't mind my saying, it looks a bit like it was knit on one of those knifty kntter knitting looms you get at the craft store  Also, it doesn't appear to have the doubled brim that I've seen on other monmouth caps.

What instructions did you follow?

haha you nailed it I made it on one of those looms thats why the stiching is so big and it does not have a double brim

[CrazyCholeBlack]

Psst, wanna know a secret. I could tell 'cause I've used them before too

seriously though, there is a way to do the doubled brim on the loom. You "knit" for a few inches, then take the first row (hanging loose in the loom) and fold it back over, catching each stitch back on the pegs then continue as usual.

Also, you could try using the largest loom out there and either doubling the yarn or using super bulky yarn, then felting it down to a smaller size. That might help it look less like it came off a loom and more like a hand knit monmouth.

To me the felting is what really makes a monmouth though. It hides the knitting stitches well and make the hat water resistant and warm, all good things.

[carolinapyrate]

seriously though, there is a way to do the doubled brim on the loom. You "knit" for a few inches, then take the first row (hanging loose in the loom) and fold it back over, catching each stitch back on the pegs then continue as usual.

thanks for the advise!

Also, you could try using the largest loom out there and either doubling the yarn or using super bulky yarn, then felting it down to a smaller size. That might help it look less like it came off a loom and more like a hand knit monmouth.

To me the felting is what really makes a monmouth though. It hides the knitting stitches well and make the hat water resistant and warm, all good things.                             

I see what you mean about felting it does look better how does one felt a monmouthcap?

[michaelsbagley]

Also, you could try using the largest loom out there and either doubling the yarn or using super bulky yarn, then felting it down to a smaller size. That might help it look less like it came off a loom and more like a hand knit monmouth.

To me the felting is what really makes a monmouth though. It hides the knitting stitches well and make the hat water resistant and warm, all good things.                             

I see what you mean about felting it does look better how does one felt a monmouthcap?

Hmmm....

I would wait for CrazyCholeBlack to chime back in on this one... As she definately seems to know a lot more about fibres and fabric than I do...

But there is "Fulling" wool, (wash in hot water and then dry on hot) which fuzzies the item up (but usually shrinks it a fair bit as well).

And then there is "Felting" wool, which is pounding/grinding fibres together until they mush into a more solid subtsance.

Not trying to split hairs here, more trying to ensure I have the terms and concepts correct.

[CrazyCholeBlack]

actually, fulling is done with finished cloth while felting is done with the raw fibers (ie yarn). So a yard of wool gab is fulled while a knitted item is felted. That's what happens say, if you throw your favorite wool sweater through the wash/dry accidentally.

Essentially the process is the same though. You can machine felt by throwing your (knitted well over size) item in a hot washer with soap & a hot dryer. Drawback is that you don't really know how much it's going to shrink up doing it this way. Repeat as needed to get it felted the way you want.

You can also felt by hand. Essentially you wash in the hottest water you can stand, by hand, squeezing and rubbing in the way the machine would if it was doing the work. Dunking periodically into cold water helps to shock the sensitive wool fibers and keeps your hands from burning up. Then dry either flat or in the dryer (which has the less control drawback again).

The biggest problem with using the Knifty Knitter is that the standard size looms might not be big enough to make a big enough item so that it would still fit after extensive felting.

Good luck!

[michaelsbagley]

actually, fulling is done with finished cloth while felting is done with the raw fibers (ie yarn). So a yard of wool gab is fulled while a knitted item is felted. That's what happens say, if you throw your favorite wool sweater through the wash/dry accidentally.

Essentially the process is the same though. You can machine felt by throwing your (knitted well over size) item in a hot washer with soap & a hot dryer. Drawback is that you don't really know how much it's going to shrink up doing it this way. Repeat as needed to get it felted the way you want.

You can also felt by hand. Essentially you wash in the hottest water you can stand, by hand, squeezing and rubbing in the way the machine would if it was doing the work. Dunking periodically into cold water helps to shock the sensitive wool fibers and keeps your hands from burning up. Then dry either flat or in the dryer (which has the less control drawback again).

The biggest problem with using the Knifty Knitter is that the standard size looms might not be big enough to make a big enough item so that it would still fit after extensive felting.

Good luck!

Thanks for clearing that up for me Chole!

Fulling versus Felting had perviously been described to me in an inconcise manner that left me with a bit of a mild misconception, and it is always nice to have things explained more accurately.

[carolinapyrate]

thanks Chole I will wash one of the caps and see what happens. Only way to find out how much it will shrink is to try it.

[Patrick Hand]

When I made my caps, I would knit them about 1 1/2 to almost twice as large as I wanted the finished cap..... I then run it throught the waRshing (the "R" is silent) Machine on Hot..... then throw it into the dryer on Hot... They shrink and felt up nicely... Also, you can't see any stitches that wern't quite right ...

The biggest problem with felting a cap (well not a problem really...) is that the finished felted cap is really warm.... Great for Winter.... but a bit too hot for Spring and Summer......

[Rabbitz]

So some newbie sort of questions...

1. What does monmouth mean?

2. Where can I find a pattern?

Rabz

[Gentleman of Fortune]

Well.....

I would imagine that if you googled "monmouth hat pattern" the first link would answer question #2 (and possibly question #1 as well).

But "Monmouth" is a place in England where there was a large hat knitting industry.

I could say more, but a lot has already been said by Karl Kostler on the subject at HistoricalTrekking.com

I am just gonna cut and paste this, but its worth checking things out at http://www.historicaltrekking.com as its a valuable resource (and an interesting "classifieds area as well).

And lastly, let me just say that Karl Koster is the bomb. I have seen his posts on several forums, and he always has incredible insight and a vast knowledge of all things 18th century (though i believe he re-enacts later 18th century).

So, again, this ain't my work, its Karl Koster's.

Monmouth Caps

“…the most ancient, general warm and profitable covering of men’s heads…”

It seems headwear is always a dilemma for some, and finding the right item to wear can be a long endless search. The Monmouth cap may just be the answer. The subtitle is a quote from Thomas Fuller, a writer of the 17th century. It was during this century and the next that found the Monmouth cap most commonly in use, though its history is a long one. The Monmouth cap has truly been around a long time, and its purpose and use has changed and evolved through out the years. The Monmouth was first mentioned in history in 1576. Mentioned in the famed writings of Charles Dickens and William Shakespeare the Monmouth Cap remains scarcely active in our vocabulary today. What did it look like, and where did it originate? And who had them? For these answers read on to learn more about…the Monmouth cap.

The original home, and name of the cap may have been derived from the Welsh border town of Monmouth. Many cappers (those who made caps), lived in and around Monmouth, and for more than half a century it remained a cap-making center. Caps were an essential clothing item and were general wear. A quality cap could cost more than a shirt, a pair of breeches or even shoes. Imported felt hats and those of leather cost less than the famed monmouths. Many cappers were employed annually, this being mostly true before the advent of fulling-mills. Back when each cap needed to be wrought, beaten and thickened individually. Caps were big business, and laws were even placed on the books in England declaring; “…no caps or hats ready wrought should be brought from beyond the seas…” On account of river trade coming out of Monmouth towards Bristol the cap had the chance to achieve mass distribution and did. The Monmouth cap became famed and worn by all, laborers and lords alike. The Monmouth cap did not stay with Monmouth. Due to disease among the population and rising prices of the high quality raw materials the new cap region became the town of Bewdly, in Worcestershire.

The caps resembled modern day knit hats but were knitted closed as opposed to sewn closed, another difference involves the older method of knitting the thick, course 2-ply yarn with four needles, and using a seamless “stocking stitch”. The caps were then ready to be felted and shorn. Originals are mentioned being of brown or gray, commonly topped with a button. They are designed to fit snug and at times carry a small loop of yarn at the rear. The button may have beginnings that go back to the cap’s earliest days. For the Monmouth cap may have protected the head when wearing an armored helmet by cushioning the head of the wearer and giving him a more snug fit.

The loop, may have been for hanging the hat or a way to secure it perhaps? English military records, most notably naval records display Monmouth Caps frequently through the 16th,17th,, 18th and 19th century. The British collier, General Carleton of Whitby, sank in 1785. It was discovered in 1991 in the Baltic Sea. Among the 757 artifacts that were recovered from the cold water was a tasseled and fringed monmouth cap. The cap and other articles of clothing were preserved in fantastic condition. It provided a real “window view” of British sailors clothing of the 18th century. It seems throughout history we find the Monmouth most commonly associated with the military, and most commonly by sailors;

With Monmouth Cap, and cutlass by my side,

Striding at least a yard at every stride,

I’m come to tell you, after much petition,

The Admiralty has given me a Commission.

A Satyre on Sea Officers- Dodsley

Hurl away a brown dozen of Monmouth caps in a sea ceremony to your bon voyage…

Eastward Hoe- Marston

Caps in the New World

In 1607, along with the first settlers to Jamestown came the Monmouth cap. Having practical clothing was advised by the leaders of the New Virginia Company and monmouth caps were on the list. (incidently, in that group of 105 men was listed a John Capper. He is listed as an artisan, but with no occupation explained. Perhaps Mr.Capper’s name provides the clue to his occupation?) It was during this time a monmouth cap was given to Pocohontas’s father, Powhaten by Capt. J. Smith. A 1635 New England inventory supports monmouth cap ownership in what is today Maine.

The cap gained favor with the middle and lower classes in this country only, and gained popularity among negro slaves. George Washington ordered dozens for his laborers and a cap appears in an advertisement for a runaway slave in the 1768Virginia Gazette.

One variation of the cap is known as the “Welsh Wig”. Commonly knitted of thrums, or loose frazzled ends of yarn, the cap developed a “hairy” appearance aiding to its nickname. The Carleton Whitby find was a Welsh wig variation.

The Monmouth cap is related and close cousin to today’s modern watch cap, popular with longshoremen and sailors. Perhaps the biggest problem in researching Monmouth caps comes to play in the words many used in describing them. A favorite term was worsted, the problem lies that worsted could mean a cap cut & sewn of worsted material or perhaps even the more conical shaped tuque, popular with the Canadians which are worsted. The problem is not so much Monmouth but worsted.

As to reenacting, it makes a wonderful nightcap on a cool evening. Those portraying a person with any seamanship background or time aboard a ship may have an easier time introducing this garment to their persona, for others it may mean more research on this fascinating headwear and small notion.

Bibliography

Costume Magazine, The Monmouth Cap by Kirstie Buckland 1979

The Hatters by Leonard E. Fisher, 1965 Franklin Watts Publ.

Two Centuries of Costume in America by A. M. Earle, 1974 Corner House Publ.

Underwater Archeology Bulletin, Neidinger and Russell Editors, 1999

Personal Correspondence ~Phyllis Dickerson, Historical Weaver/Spinner

Documented History of Maine Vol. 3, by James Baxter, Portland, 1884

Kobuck had a nice article on them in OTT not too long ago and a websearch brings up original images ofan early monmouth cap and some darn good articles on them.

As for makers, I have seen those made by Hillary Walters, Brenda Timmerman and Phyllis Dickenson but commonly called the best has been the gal who knows them best and had wrote the definitive article on them...Kirstie Buckland. She has a website I believed titled "Quality Caps"

GoF

[Rabbitz]

Many Thanks GOF...

Although the Google solution seems obvious, I do not trust it or the internet to be accurate... "Just because it is on the internet it must be true" does not hold any truth for me.

Rabz

[Carlislekid]

Ya done good.