Cochineal

[Red Maria]

I've just been give about a gram of cochineal from the gardens here! Does anyone know how to dye with it? How much would I need to dye enough cloth for a size 4/6 mantua or fitted bodice gown using silk?

Thanks

[Capn_Enigma]

You should consult the Wikipedia article, especially this section:

Dye

A deep crimson dye is extracted from the female cochineal insects. Cochineal is used to produce scarlet, orange and other red tints too. The colouring comes from carminic acid. Cochineal extract's natural carminic-acid content is usually 19–22%.[5] The insects are killed by immersion in hot water (after which they are dried) or by exposure to sunlight, steam, or the heat of an oven. Each method produces a different colour which results in the varied appearance of commercial cochineal. The insects must be dried to about 30 percent of their original body weight before they can be stored without decaying.[10] It takes about 155,000 insects to make one kilogram of cochineal.

There are two principal forms of cochineal dye: cochineal extract is a colouring made from the raw dried and pulverised bodies of insects, and carmine is a more purified colouring made from the cochineal. To prepare carmine, the powdered insect bodies are boiled in ammonia or a sodium carbonate solution, the insoluble matter is removed by filtering, and alum is added to the clear salt solution of carminic acid to precipitate the red aluminium salt. Purity of colour is ensured by the absence of iron. Stannous chloride, citric acid, borax, or gelatin may be added to regulate the formation of the precipitate. For shades of purple, lime is added to the alum.[2]

As of 2005, Peru produced 200 tonnes of cochineal dye per year and the Canary Islands produced 20 tonnes per year.[10][5] Chile and Mexico have also recently begun to export cochineal.[1] France is believed to be the world's largest importer of cochineal; Japan and Italy also import the insect. Much of these imports are processed and reexported to other developed economies.[10] As of 2005, the market price of cochineal was between 50 and 80 USD per kilogram,[9] while synthetic raw food dyes are available at prices as low as 10–20 USD per kilogram.[11]

As for the amount of cochineal: I guess trial and error would be best, but just a gram of it sounds definitely not enough for a bodice.

[CrazyCholeBlack]

that size mantua takes about 6 yards of fabric IIRC. 1oz dry dye stuff of will do about ~1 lb fabric. Wool being heavier means 1lb = less yardage than the same weight of silk.

Here's a good simple how too

http://www.earthguild.com/products/riff/rcochinel.htm

you can also mordent with tin (scarlet) chrome or iron (violet) but alum is the easiest & truest red I've heard.

Silk also dyes differently than wool. So while you'll still get red/pink with cochineal, it won't be the same, even with the same dye/mordent/time combo. I've always found it's best to test silk ahead of time when shooting for a specific color since some (especailly blue/black/purples) tends to "throw" in odd directions on silk. Oh & don't forget to scower silk to remove as much of the silk worm junk before dyeing & avoid spots.

and just in case you really want to know a lot about cochineal

Cochineal

[kass]

Maria, a gram would only impart a slight colour to that much fabric. If you have access to more, get a couple of ounces. If you don't, why not dye a lovely handkerchief that you can wear tucked in the front of your mantua. It is small enough that it will come out a very brilliant red.

Even if you can get more, my suggestion is to try the gram you have on a handkerchief anyway. It will teach you what to expect. I don't know if you've done much natural dyeing, but it's sometime very touchy and if I were you, I'd start with the hankie. After all, it'll make a wonderful accessory!

Here's a company that sells PDF (prepared for dye) silk handkerchiefs in a variety of sizes: Silk Connection

There's also a wonderful new book on the history of cochineal, if you're interested. I bet your library could ILL a copy if you don't have it already. It's called "A Perfect Red: Empire, Espionage, and the Quest for the Color of Desire" by Amy Butler Greenfield

[Red Maria]

There's also a wonderful new book on the history of cochineal, if you're interested. I bet your library could ILL a copy if you don't have it already. It's called "A Perfect Red: Empire, Espionage, and the Quest for the Color of Desire" by Amy Butler Greenfield >>

Kass

That book is in the Botanical Library. I'll check it out. I will have access to more cochineal but I like the idea to try a handkerchef first. I'll check out Silk Connection.

Thanks!

[Red Maria]

Kass I like your idea about the handkerceif. It could double as a fancy do rag when I do my dressed as a man bit. What size would you reommend? the 11x11"? It looks like I might be getting a lot more cochineal. A garden volunteer noticed a neighbor's cactus was infested with them. He's going to ask his neighbor if I can harvest them.

I see by Capt. Enigma post that they should be dried to prevent decay. Does anyone know the best method of drying them to produce the best red?

Thanks for everyone's suggetions! :)

[CrazyCholeBlack]

IME 11x11 isn't big enough for a head scarf, much less a neckerchief. Standard bandanas are 20x20. You'll want something larger than that for a neckerchief generally.

[Red Maria]

I see a 22x22" Habotai silk scarf on the website Kass posted. Would that do?

[Red Maria]

I've been invited to harvest cochineal in the Desert Garden this coming Tuesday Yippee! (happy dance) Apprantly there an infestation the curator of the Desret Garden wants taken care of. I might get enough for dying and a bit more. Anyone want to trade?

[Capn_Enigma]

I might get enough for dying and a bit more. Anyone want to trade? 

Aw, I am glad that I am alive, thanks a lot!

Anyway, good for you!