michaelsbagley

I've participated in this most years I have been active on the forum... so why should this year be any different. Count me in.

What Mark said, the wrinkles make it difficult to truly tell, but at a glance, it is looking very much on the right track.

These are still the best comics ever

This is going a little bit more off the rails.... But I have often contemplated getting back into home-brewing and using 2.5 to 3 gallon corny-kegs... and then hiding said small corny-key in a period barrel (I have one the correct size) with a small Co2 cannister (like a large paintball gun size Co2 cannister).... Perfect way to have beer on tap at an event and keep it sanitary and period looking. It would be a small investment in money (for the half-size corny-kegs, which are more expensive than the standard size 5 gallon ones that are easier to find)... and the rest of the accessories required for kegging home-brew.... but it is an idea that keeps cropping up in my head every year or two. I really need to stop contemplating the idea, and actually hop to it.

I've honestly thought about it for the standard Blood & Plunder game

You say that like it's a bad thing... 😇

What facet of the sleeve shape isn't sitting right with you? I've noticed the "suggested" pleating as per the out-of-box (bag) pattern tends to be too much (too snug) for almost every one I have made.... So I can suggest up front, easing the pleating on the sleeves a fair bit. Is the shape the opening? How it has what might seem like a steep arc to it? (going to go on a limb and answer to this assumption, let me know if I was wrong so I can try and be more helpful)... But the way the opening arcs, allows the cuffs once attached, to hang in a manner that will have the outside slightly lower than the inside (when your arms are comfortably hanging at your sides) as is depicted in much of the period art-work. I don't think there is any function to this, I think it is just the "fashion of the time" being different from modern fashion/comfort standards, and so seems weird.

Damn, that redware is an awesome find at an amazing price. Great score!

So this came up on my soc media feed today, a rather great and detailed YuToob interview with our very own Barber-Surgeon.

I'm not a culinary expert, but I think allum is used in baking, especially with merangues or other things with lots of whipped egg as an agent to help preserve/prolong the frothing of the eggs (and likely other frothy things). I thinks it's universally optional, but some "more serious" bakers prefer it for the slightly improved results.

Oh, and I have found that as long as a working-class/common-woman's mantua can be cut and constructed from 5 or less yards of fabric. I think we managed to scrape a knee length (barely below the knee) mantua out of just over 4 yard of fabric once.... but this was after all of the oppsie-discoveries of how long to cut the front/back and gores and other parts. Cheap fabric was crucial in mathing out that.

One last word on construction... The turning gore/gusset: I have never needed it for any "working class"/common-woman's inspired mantua (think Laroon's Cryes of London rather than the fancy women's gown). The primary gore is so long, that unless you are making "a lady's" garment that has a train or requires bustle, the main gore will be cut short enough the turning-gore will not be required. Wish I had advice on dying. It's been something that has always fascinated me, and I've picked up tidbits of trivia about it, but I have no real helpful knowledge on. As for linen v wool. I've made almost equal amounts of mantuas of the two fabrics. I kind of prefer using wool. I find it adds more structure to the construction. Using linen is fine, and as long as you use a med-weight or heavier linen it should be fine

Adding this video reference from the Dutch you toober Allemansend. This is a great tutorial and historical notes regarding snapsacks and their construction. The focus is a little earlier than what we focus on here, but valuable and useful all the same.

Yay, glad Mary and my advice and scribbles were able to help. And yasss, having a step by step photo guide would be invaluable. The making of this garment comes up as a point of frustration every couple of years, so having a good source of guidance to refer people to would be gold (because let's face it, the Farcebook costuming groups have nothing to say about this garment other than a bunch of hate for the RH pattern, and more vitriol in that vein, some of which might be warranted, but none of which actually helps people to make one)

Slight revision to head off a future pitfall I hit the first time I made one of these. I added a couple of Xs (in a circle) to this diagram. Start sewing from the X to the sleeve opening, then sew from the X down towards the bottom hem stopping at the bottom of the upside-down L shaped slit. Then start stitching from C to D to attach the front to torso to Gore C to D. (Do NOT stitch front of torso to back of torso at this time!) Then stitch back torso C to A to gore C to A. The Back C mark is slightly off, so there should not be any pleats, or puckers, or gather on the back C to A (justor just above) seam. There will be a narrow strip of fabric hanging. Ignore it. It is superfluous. It can just be tucked inside the garment when completed and ignored, or once the garment is complete, it can just be cut off.