Cascabel

The correct blank charge will vary, depending on both caliber and barrel length. There is no one "correct" charge for all weapons. I usually advise one grain per caliber as a starting point, and increase from there until a decent "boom" is achieved with no wadding. Usually it winds up about the ratio that Patrick uses, around 150% of the caliber in grains or less, but again, it varies with bore size and barrel length. Shorter barrels or smaller bores require less powder. An excess of powder is blown out of the barrel un-burned, or burns after leaving the barrel as a large muzzle flash, both of which are wasteful. A compressed load with a wad, of course requires less powder, but I always advocate going wadless for many reasons. A word of caution to the "newbies"..... A live load with a ball is an entirely different matter. There is considerably less powder used !!!! You eventually get to a "point of diminishing returns", where an increase in powder results in very little increase in sound, until you get to an ear ringing volume rather suddenly. At that point, you are not only wasting powder, but entering the realm of ear damage. >>>> Cascabel

This is a paragraph from my 'Flintlocks 101' article that I wrote for No Quarter Given regarding proper powder charges : "You absolutely do not want to be so loud as to cause ear damage !!!!! This seems to be an on-going problem with some people that seem to think that it is important to have the LOUDEST gun on the crew, or some other such foolishness. This is an extremely bad practice from several standpoints. It is EXTREMELY inconsiderate to your fellow pirates to deliberately do something that is causing discomfort and a high likelihood of permanent ear damage. It is not at all amusing, and if you seem to get more than a few complaints or remarks about how loud your weapon is, you need to lower your powder charge or change your loading procedure. If you are causing ringing ears, you can also leave yourself, your re-enactment group, and the event open to personal injury lawsuits by members of the public. A few such incidents can get firing banned from our events. THINK !!!!!! Excessive charges, if carried to the extreme, can blow a gun apart with all sorts of immediate and on-going consequences. Don’t be the one that brings trouble on to everyone !!! Measure your charges, and keep them reasonable." >>>> Cascabel

I know where he's hiding out. For a few doubloons, I might be persuaded to...... Akkkk !!....Ugh.... Koff..Koff...Ha-a-a-a-a-alp !!! He just broke wind !!! I'm having trouble breathing....... Passing out...

If we put Stynky on trial, can the judge be expected to be a kangaroo ???

Normally, only cast members are allowed to use weapons either bladed or firearms at all festivals. It's a liability issue. Most events that I attend provide for individuals or groups to become participants by signing waivers of some sort. Normally no one is allowed to just show up and "play" without some kind of sign-in procedure. The event itself is responsible and can be held liable for what goes on at their venue. >>>> Cascabel

Aye, mine looks similar..... >>>> Cascabel

I carry a small folding knife, intended as a tool, rather than a weapon. >>>> Cascabel

Ahoy, Nikki.... I'm glad you were able to make it to PiP. I enjoyed hanging out with you. I hope your write-up in the Mirror is well received. >>>> Cascabel

Please do yourself a favor, and don't waste your money on this thing. It is very poor quality, and poorly designed. The term "piece of crap" comes to mind. It's safe enough, and won't blow up in your face, but that's the best I can say for it. I have not seen a quality reproduction duckfoot available in my many years of dealing with this stuff, other than very expensive one-off custom pieces. A real duck foot has more than three barrels usually, and sometimes more that one row, one above the other. You should be able to find some good images of originals by looking on GOOGLE images to get an idea of what they should really look like. >>>> Cascabel As a side note on these pistols, there are several variations from the same manufacturer using the same handle/frame assembly that are equally poor quality, and not worth having. One of which is called the "Cutlass Pistol", and I can't recall the names of the others. >>>> Cascabel

The hemp fragments may be simply the remains of a storage wrapping. Just like some of us today wrap our pistols up in a towel or something for protection when not in use. I would be hesitant to call it a holster without evidence of means of attachment to a belt or something of that type. >>>> Cascabel

The "flaming bomb" symbol has been used as far back as the 17th century, and as recently as World War I, and may be still used by some militaries. The whole rig looks Napoleonic era to me. The crossed cannons usually indicate the artillery branch of the service. It may be an artillery fuze pouch. Great item !!! I think I would leave it alone, and hang it on the wall for display. >>>> Cascabel

That would be a pretty tall order to give complete info, short of writing a book. For instance, the Brown Bess, more properly called the Land Pattern musket (as opposed to the Sea Service musket), was produced in many "official" variations as improvements and cost reductions evolved from the 1720's up to the 1790's. All of the variations may be referred to as Brown Besses. French muskets followed a similar evolutionary process, as did military issued pieces in other European countries. There was considerable overlap in designs, with the more recent improved models being issued after earlier models were depleted in the arsenals. Usually the older models were issued to troops on foreign service. There was quite a bit of overlap in ignition types in the early years in the non-military world, with early and more recent types used side by side. There are also regional preferences, for instance, the long popularity of miquelet style flintlocks in Spain, Italy, and the Balkan area. Another regional difference was the long use of various types of doglock among the English, when the French and others had gone over to the more standard type of flintlock. >>>>> Cascabel

Crocus cloth comes in only one grade in my experience. It is really nice stuff !! It is finer than the finest sandpaper. It has a cloth backing, and is used dry. There is yet a finer product available called "Emery Polishing Paper", made by Carborundum Abrasives. It is a bit hard to find, but excellent. It will get you almost to a mirror-like finish. The next thing finer than that would be Jeweller's Rouge, which is actually a compound in stick form meant for use on a buffing wheel. Commonly available abrasive papers are available in 90, 120, 180, 240, 320, 400, and 600 grades. The higher the number, the finer the finish. Crocus cloth is finer than all of these. All of these are usually "wet or dry" types. They are best used wet with water to carry away the sanding residue. This also gives a finer finish. They can usually be had at suppliers of automotive painting supplies, if not at your local hardware store, or if an industrial supply store is not nearby. Probably more than you really wanted to know about abrasives !!!! >>>> Cascabel

Thanks, Jib !!! That is an amazing piece.... >>>> Cascabel

Aye, I'm in full agreement with you on reliability being based on how familiar you are with your weapons, and quality of maintenance !! This applies to any ignition system. The reproduction wheel locks I have examined definitely have issues with poor fit between the wheel and the pan, even when brand new. Not so with the originals that I have seen, unless badly worn. This is where the closer tolerances come in to play. Careful hand fitting is expensive, and good maintenance is critical on these things !! Powder sifting down behind the lock is really something to watch for. >>>> Cascabel

Please do yourself a favor, and don't waste your money on this thing. It is very poor quality, and poorly designed. The term "piece of crap" comes to mind. It's safe enough, and won't blow up in your face, but that's the best I can say for it. I have not seen a quality reproduction duckfoot available in my many years of dealing with this stuff, other than very expensive one-off custom pieces. A real duck foot has more than three barrels usually, and sometimes more that one row, one above the other. You should be able to find some good images of originals by looking on GOOGLE images to get an idea of what they should really look like. >>>> Cascabel

If the project actually gets under way, please keep us posted, and step by step photos would be nice too. I'm sure there would be lots of interest, being that wheel locks are not common. >>>> Cascabel

Found some of 'em on ebay. The New-in-Box ones are a bit pricey >>>> Cascabel

Great info on your cannon project, HarborMaster !!! I especially like the in-progress shots. I do quite a bit of lathe work myself, and am always interested in how someone else tackles a set-up on the machine. Keep 'em coming.... >>>> Cascabel

And keep in mind also that the location of a couple of the steps is dictated by the location of the bolts that hold the rear axel on. The steps are definitely not for decoration !! >>>> Cascabel

Assuming the barrel is properly designed and proportioned, the thickness of the cheeks needs to be about the length of the trunnions. Any thicker than the length of the trunnions does you no good. Any thinner than the trunnion length is likely not going to be strong enough. >>>> Cascabel

Well said, Shipmate !!! There is truly a lot of pure crap offered on ebay, either by well intentioned but un-informed sellers, or scam artists. Be careful out there !!! If anyone finds a weapon related item on ebay they are not certain of, feel free to post it here for an honest opinion. I hate to torpedo a guy after he has spent his hard earned money thinking he got something worthwhile. Maybe we can guide our members in the right direction before that happens..... >>>> Cascabel

Not that I either have had the pleasure of firing a wheellock, but theory tell's me that it should fire faster than a flintlock. What the wheel lock had going for it was certainty of ignition, because of the sparks occuring right down in the priming, rather than having to have the sparks fall into the priming from above. They were a huge improvment over the match lock, not having to depend on a smoldering match cord, and could be carried cocked and ready to fire. A properly designed and maintained flintlock will be pretty much instantaneous and just as certain. The wheel lock fell out of favor by the time the true flintlock was fully developed. Wheel locks are considerably more labor intensive to make, and require closer tolerances, and are therefore more expensive. They are also a lot bulkier in size. They tend to be a bit more fragile, and less tolerant of wear to the working parts. >>>>> Cascabel

Aha !!!!!! I found the poster : http://cgi.ebay.com/Charlton-Heston-Christ...1QQcmdZViewItem >>>> Cascabel