Tudor MercWench Smith

That's what I thought! Even more exciting is the fact that whipped cream is entirely period appropriate (perchance not in a spray can, though) so we could make the drink even more festive!!

Finally (!!) got around to testing a recipe. Whipped up some "Chacolet" today on a break from work. (https://rarecooking.com/2016/01/28/chacolet-from-rebeckah-winches-receipt-book-at-the-folger-shakespeare-library/) I did the cocoa powder version of the modernized recipe (trying to price shop/online for nibs was proving a weird sticking point for me). I, much to my historical shame, cheated and ground up the red pepper flake in my handy dandy bullet blender. What's the old, much maligned bad reenactor catch-phrase "If they had it they would have used it!!" lol. . . Notes and observations. Mixing up the powder would be a stupidly easy display for events. Actually goes together quick - though obviously would be slower having to hand grind nibs and chili. Flavorwise - I was worried about the cinnamon overpowering the chocolate flavor, but it doesn't at least not too badly, so maybe key it back just a tiny little bit. The spice level is higher then I expected, but definitely not unpleasant (at least to me who's idea of a good curry is a Vindalooo spice blend referred to as "Thermonuclear".) I understand from the recipe notes that the the spice mellows as the flavors meld if the powder is stored for a few months. I meant to start this process in September, so I won't be able to really test that theory. It drinks best after it cools just a touch, at which time it becomes delightfully warming and decadently chocolatey. Will have to figure out best way to prevent/remove the film that forms when heating milk. At any rate, a large jar of this will be coming to Fort King George in December for all the hot beverage needs of those un-enamored of coffee or tea.

Well ladies and gents . . . We have a more or less functional mantua. It's got some flaws, the pleating and the fit isn't the greatest, considering I was doing it on myself and a not particularly accurate duct tape dress form. I've still got to do up the cuffs, then tailor/finish the front, then hem everything up. But it certainly kicks my girly duds up a few dozen notches. Please excuse the absolutely awful selfies (and the fact that the front is still way too drapey/baggy/unfinished), but I absolutely had to see how it looked over everything, and well .. . I ain't mad about it. Next up (after the final finishes on this sucker) will probably be some mending pile stuff, getting the ring on my belt swapped out for a buckle, cleaning and reshaping my hat, and button holes on my frock. Down to weeks now, not months!

Love that you scored such a good deal - it looks like it's coming together really well so far

Good tip! I've been having some luck on various sites, but mixed bag as to actual historical reference on them.

The pattern does have "finishing strips" to go around the neckline around the pleats, which should accomplish what you are suggesting, (I think). Once I get the sleeve pleats sewn in (which is what I started last night), I plan on putting them in, though I will probably go as off-book with the execution as I kind of have with a lot of the directions so far. I hadn't thought about one at the waist though, which I will now have to consider. I slipped it on last night over the stays after pining the sleeve pleats, and my first response was "hooly crap! It's a mantua", so I guess that's good progress. Blind stitching those pleats down now by hand, as they are "visible". Then will be the sleeve cuffs, which I will probably have to wing entirely. Then will be the finishing strip around the collar. Then will be the front. Then the Hem. Hopefully I don't lose steam on it, but it should be wearable pretty soon. Other things I am cooking up in the meantime - need to find a buckle so I can turn my belt from standard issue RenFaire ring belt to something more appropriate, need to reshape and spray my at, slops somehow need mended again, and button holes should get put into my frock coat. But sleeves first. . . . Pics of my sleeve pleats, just cause . . . pretty fabric. . .

Picture of the progress as of the other night. Goal tonight is to finish the sleeves and the facings.

Ok, I am in love with this fabric and am not unconvinced it's magic. In two nights worth of work, I have as much done as I managed on the prototype in like 2 months. It's going together beautifully, I have the body, gores and pleats done, I still need to tailor and face the front, and put in whatever means I want for pinning the skirts open/back, then it will just be the hemming/hand finishes. Holy crap, y'alll, I am going in December and I will actually have a mantua. . . .two things a month or two ago I was pretty well convinced were not going to happen. Pic dump below - I got as far as getting a pic of the finished pleats but my phone died before they uploaded, so those will have to wait for the big reveal at a later date. It's not perfect, but it's actually the thing! And dang do I love the fabic and color . .. ....Proof I do actually iron when it matters hahaha

Well, i've always heard "wash the fabric the way you mean to wash the clothing" and there is no way in hell that I will dry clean it soooo..... I did use gentle and cold settings cause I didn't want any felting - which probably isn't a concern with this type of weave but still. . . hopefully progress pics tonight.

Fabric is here. Color is perfect. The test yard actually washed up really nicely (am I a lunatic for washing a wool? possibly? did it work out fine? Also possibly), with only very minimal to no shrinkage, so I am tempted to cut and sew and then wash, so I don't have to worry about fraying. And also so I don't have to wait to cut and sew any longer then my work day lol. Also, this fabric is so swoon worthy. Feels and looks more like a linen in regards to texture and drape, but definitely has the substance of a wool - like a heavy weight linen without the stiffness.

Well, the linen/wool blend I was looking at for my mantua just went on 70% sale again. Granted, it's a blend, but I can let you know what the quality is like, and then we can watch out for sales on coat weight - fabricmart . com is pretty regular with absurd sales in their linens and wools, and I've heard very good things about their quality in general. Otherwise, Kalamazoo Dry Goods is another place I window shop for wools at. It's all closeout rolls they buy from factories and manufacturers, so availability is hit or miss, but they are all "name brand" wools typically, and you can get heavyweights closer to that $20 range. So, ultimately, I bought out the last of the supply of the linsey-woolsey (or as they prefer to call it, "Linen/Wool Slubbed Suiting", which is not nearly as fun to say as linsey-woolsey) so I will have more then enough for my mantua, and for an undetermined future project.

Luckily, my frock coat was made 20ish years ago, when high quality coat weight wool could be bought in store (at fabric outlets ) for like .... $9.99 a yard *crying*. It is on my list for an eventual re-do with a more correct pattern, but damn do I not want to spend the kind of money I would have to now. As for ironing - I am meticulous about it when I'm cutting the "good" fabric for final item, but I get so antsy about not spending too much time on my toiles that ulitmately I probably end up spending more cause of the wrinkles lol

Awww man, are you guys really going to make me get out my iron??? Allllriiiiiiight .. . . but I'm only going to do the bare minimium . .. Here's the results of a very lazy quick iron, and then some equally quick stitches - please ignore the flappy sleeve that was still open at the time of taking photos. Still with some issues and flaws, (and yes, I know, still wrinkly - so much for poly cotton being "easy" care and wrinkle proof), but the results make me confident (hubristic?) enough that I feel like I can make a move on an actual wearable version. I think I want to do the wearable version in a navy, as it's the color that will be most versatile with the existing pieces I have. I am kicking myself cause the most gorgeous "deep space blue" linen/wool blend was on sale on fabricmart . com for like $12 a yard, but I apparently went temporarily insane and didn't instantly buy it, and now it's back to $45 a yard. I have a giant roll of a kind of "homespun" cotton, pretty sure it was a home dec roll, same as what I had used to make my jacket that got turned into a waistcoat. I cut off some yardage last night and prewashing it today, and might cut it tonight. I worry that it's going to be too heavy a fabric. It's great weight for jackets, waistcoats, and would probably also make a fine riding habit. I just worry about how stiff the pleats will look, and if the sides will drape correctly when bustled up. If that ends up being the case, and I don't score another find for fabric, and/or i just run out of time, I did some trial runs on outfits pairing my waistcoat with the stays and skirts, and with a bit of tailoring and/or putting some lacing up the back of the waistcoat, which probably needs to happen anyway to make it less bulky and bag like, it kinda works - rather like an underdressed riding habit, and if I put my wool frock coat on over top, it actually pulls together pretty ok - which will either free me up to wait for a fabric deal for the manuta, or to use lighter fabric I already have on hand in a different color that will only go with SOME of the pieces I already have. Sooo... finally some progress now that we are closing in on being a month out from the event . . .

Ok gang, back to my bedsheet nightmare.... But I think I got a handle on the pleating on the back . . . understanding that this is a poorly cut poly-cotton that has been hastily stitched and even more hastily pinned, the back still somehow looks something like I'd imagine it's supposed to This might just be late night hubris and desperation to have this done, so I have done at least one upgrade to my kit for FKG in December, but I *think* if I go very carefully about it, I could make the cut on some good fabric. Allowing for all the jankiness of the poor execution, someone tell me if I am just seeing things or if this seems like the right concept?

XII - That whoever shall be found seducing any boy or woman not of the said Company aboard ship, and carry he or she disguised aboard ship; or shall anyone at any time meet with a prudent Woman, that man that offers to meddle with her without her Consent, shall suffer what Punishment the Captain of that Ship or the Majority of the Company of said Ship shall think fit. While she had heard Durand’s comments about French providence and English foolishness—she had even mustered up a witty rejoinder—she could not have repeated any part of the conversation once the echoes of the words faded into the air. The words of Article Eleven were the only ones that remained with her. She had only ever read the full Articles once, what felt like years ago, when she first signed them, with only occasional glimpses when they were brought out for the benefit of new crew members. Still, the written word had a way of etching itself into her memory—a surprising gift, considering her start in life, where most in her position were left illiterate. With each passing minute, as they sailed closer to the moment Saltash would have to answer for his actions, Tudor found herself caught between the clarity and ambiguity of the article in question. It left her knowing precisely what would happen yet simultaneously knowing nothing. His punishment was inevitable, but when it would come, and what its result would be, remained an open question. She could barely begin to fathom what punishment the crew—or, more importantly, the Captain—might deem fit for him. The fact that she even considered it, that she understood the weight of the moment, was enough to give her pause. In no other part of her life had anyone thought to punish a man who acted as Saltash had. His behavior would have been written off as an unfortunate but expected hazard of her trade, brushed aside as the natural result of being a woman in a man’s world. Worse, it would have been cast as her own failing—a weakness to protect herself from him. But now, not only would he have to answer, it was likely he would pay for it with his life. The thought shocked her—and disturbed her on a deep, instinctual level. Tudor was no stranger to death. From the moment she first drew breath, it seemed as though she had been a harbinger of it. She had killed for money, for survival, even for vengeance. But never for her own. She was grateful that the decision of what to do with Saltash would not rest with her, at least not on her own behalf. For young Dash, however, she would gladly lead a party of the crew in deciding the man’s fate. It weighed on her that she was not the only one injured by that animal the previous day, nor was it only one article he had violated. VII. Any of the crew that shall be found Guilty of striking one another on board or shall be found Guilty of taking up any unlawful Weapon on Board the Privateers, or any Prize, by us taken, so as to strike or abuse on Another, in any regard, shall suffer what Punishment the Captain of the Ship or Majority of the Company of said ship shall think fit. Any quarrel that shall not be resolved between parties aboard, shall be ended ashore at sword and pistol by direction of the Quartermaster of the Whole company. Oh, how she longed to take up sword and pistol on Dash’s behalf, as he had taken up arms on hers... For now, however, this—along with her growing list of desired actions, from checking on her young hero to simply clearing the dishes from the ward room—would have to wait for the Captain's return from the deck.