Tudor MercWench Smith

I fear similar for myself - my head itself is strangely large in actual size, but weirdly narrow, so anything big enough to actually fit looks . . . . large and weird. This is the cap in question that I am extrodinarily intrigued by. . . . From the shape it almost looks like it is supposed to kind of sit from the middle to the back of the head (almost like a snood) and not too far forward which is wear I get caught up, but I have never seen any depictions of a cap worn like in art, and of course it's displayed with the intent of showing the quilting and pulled thread designs, not how it was functionally worn, and I haven't been able to find any other photos yet to clarify.

In other news, I haven't even made it to the event yet, and I am already planning on what my next upgrade projects should be - which has lead me to an amazing source aggragate (http://www.larsdatter.com/18c/index.html) and now, in classic me fashion I am swan diving into more then I can chew with research and head-planning. Adding a cap to my gear *should* be easy . . . but it's not. Finding extant non-frilly, non-dangly women's caps is nigh on herculean. I could resort to just doing a men's cap, as my kit, by intent, is a blend of both men and women's (which, the site in question also has a specific section of painting references of "women in men's clothing", so that is fun for me!), so what I'd really like to do is find a working woman's cap that would be functional for the "work" I'd be doing is goal #1. Barring that, goal # 2 would be find a men's work cap that I can actually place to periord (that also won't look dorkly on me lol). From what I am seeing, the most common cap types seen are 2nd half of the 18th c. I did find one extant example of a women's cap that I am highly curious about, cause from the one photo it's shaped nothing like the typical other women's cap (it looks almost like it's shaped like a snood), but I haven't found any further detail photos of it to be able to tell how exactly it was worn. Second major project - QUILT! I wish I fell down this rabbit hole earlier, since having a period quilt for a december event sounds cozy, but maybe for next year, since it will be a large undertaking. But, I am super excited, cause despite all the popular opinion that quilts are Late 18th/Early1 9th cent, there are some GORGEOUS examples of both piecework and whole cloth quilts from period that I want to try my hand at. It of course leads the question of "would a pirate have a long labored over quilt?" and the answer is probably "no", especially at the quick and dirty careening camp style events, but we'll just say it came from some "reallocated" cargo or something and call it good.

progress report: Mantua is finished except for means to bustle up. Might just take the weird flappy bits from the underarm sides that are just dangling on the inside to create a little loop thingy. Or might get ultimately lazy and just tack stitch them up. We shall see. But at any rate, the thing is wearable for the event, defying all odds. Not ecstatic about the fit over all, but at a few paces, it should look fine. Hat has been de-waxed and reshellac'd. Next need to prioritize slops mending, button holing my coat, and putting finished edges on my towel. Mystery mouske-projects might have to wait to be handiwork on site. Also need to gather up ingredients and tools for Nom-Noms. Current plans for that are period accurate coffee and cocoa recipies, as well as maybe making up a round of "donuts" from circa 1697-1723. Oh, and my sourdough starter will probably come with me. And I need to come up with jars and crocks and containers for this all.

Thanks everyone for the encouragement and kind words. I *am* rather proud that I managed to dig down and get it "done", and am pleased that I will have an upgrade to wear. I am not 1000% pleased with the results, but I am 1000% percent pleased with the effort, so I guess that is something. And it did earn a few "Holy shit, holy shit, I actually have a mantua" comments when I first tried it on, so I'm not even *too* disappointed with the results. I think I owe most of the success to the magical fabric, though. Today's projects include finishing the cuffs, which are weird, then getting a jump on the front pleats and finishes (though I half wonder if I should hem the bottom first?). The back pleats have been stabilized at the neckline, but I might want to do more or add/change it, cause I'm not sure if it is sturdy enough, but that might also hang til after the event. We shall see. Other activities include getting candle wax out of my hat before I re-shellac it and maybe busting out the spray adhesive to start gluing down the canvas onto the coolers I am attempting to turn into "cargo bales", reorganizing and starting to pack up my sea chest, and cutting linen scraps for a mystery mousketool . .. . erm, I mean a mystery project. Oh yeah, also, should probably do my day job. all this on 3 hours sleep. . . wheeeeeeeeehhh, ADHD powers activate!

That's what I thought! Even more exciting is the fact that whipped cream is entirely period appropriate (perchance not in a spray can, though) so we could make the drink even more festive!!

Finally (!!) got around to testing a recipe. Whipped up some "Chacolet" today on a break from work. (https://rarecooking.com/2016/01/28/chacolet-from-rebeckah-winches-receipt-book-at-the-folger-shakespeare-library/) I did the cocoa powder version of the modernized recipe (trying to price shop/online for nibs was proving a weird sticking point for me). I, much to my historical shame, cheated and ground up the red pepper flake in my handy dandy bullet blender. What's the old, much maligned bad reenactor catch-phrase "If they had it they would have used it!!" lol. . . Notes and observations. Mixing up the powder would be a stupidly easy display for events. Actually goes together quick - though obviously would be slower having to hand grind nibs and chili. Flavorwise - I was worried about the cinnamon overpowering the chocolate flavor, but it doesn't at least not too badly, so maybe key it back just a tiny little bit. The spice level is higher then I expected, but definitely not unpleasant (at least to me who's idea of a good curry is a Vindalooo spice blend referred to as "Thermonuclear".) I understand from the recipe notes that the the spice mellows as the flavors meld if the powder is stored for a few months. I meant to start this process in September, so I won't be able to really test that theory. It drinks best after it cools just a touch, at which time it becomes delightfully warming and decadently chocolatey. Will have to figure out best way to prevent/remove the film that forms when heating milk. At any rate, a large jar of this will be coming to Fort King George in December for all the hot beverage needs of those un-enamored of coffee or tea.

Well ladies and gents . . . We have a more or less functional mantua. It's got some flaws, the pleating and the fit isn't the greatest, considering I was doing it on myself and a not particularly accurate duct tape dress form. I've still got to do up the cuffs, then tailor/finish the front, then hem everything up. But it certainly kicks my girly duds up a few dozen notches. Please excuse the absolutely awful selfies (and the fact that the front is still way too drapey/baggy/unfinished), but I absolutely had to see how it looked over everything, and well .. . I ain't mad about it. Next up (after the final finishes on this sucker) will probably be some mending pile stuff, getting the ring on my belt swapped out for a buckle, cleaning and reshaping my hat, and button holes on my frock. Down to weeks now, not months!

Love that you scored such a good deal - it looks like it's coming together really well so far

Good tip! I've been having some luck on various sites, but mixed bag as to actual historical reference on them.

The pattern does have "finishing strips" to go around the neckline around the pleats, which should accomplish what you are suggesting, (I think). Once I get the sleeve pleats sewn in (which is what I started last night), I plan on putting them in, though I will probably go as off-book with the execution as I kind of have with a lot of the directions so far. I hadn't thought about one at the waist though, which I will now have to consider. I slipped it on last night over the stays after pining the sleeve pleats, and my first response was "hooly crap! It's a mantua", so I guess that's good progress. Blind stitching those pleats down now by hand, as they are "visible". Then will be the sleeve cuffs, which I will probably have to wing entirely. Then will be the finishing strip around the collar. Then will be the front. Then the Hem. Hopefully I don't lose steam on it, but it should be wearable pretty soon. Other things I am cooking up in the meantime - need to find a buckle so I can turn my belt from standard issue RenFaire ring belt to something more appropriate, need to reshape and spray my at, slops somehow need mended again, and button holes should get put into my frock coat. But sleeves first. . . . Pics of my sleeve pleats, just cause . . . pretty fabric. . .

Picture of the progress as of the other night. Goal tonight is to finish the sleeves and the facings.

Ok, I am in love with this fabric and am not unconvinced it's magic. In two nights worth of work, I have as much done as I managed on the prototype in like 2 months. It's going together beautifully, I have the body, gores and pleats done, I still need to tailor and face the front, and put in whatever means I want for pinning the skirts open/back, then it will just be the hemming/hand finishes. Holy crap, y'alll, I am going in December and I will actually have a mantua. . . .two things a month or two ago I was pretty well convinced were not going to happen. Pic dump below - I got as far as getting a pic of the finished pleats but my phone died before they uploaded, so those will have to wait for the big reveal at a later date. It's not perfect, but it's actually the thing! And dang do I love the fabic and color . .. ....Proof I do actually iron when it matters hahaha

Well, i've always heard "wash the fabric the way you mean to wash the clothing" and there is no way in hell that I will dry clean it soooo..... I did use gentle and cold settings cause I didn't want any felting - which probably isn't a concern with this type of weave but still. . . hopefully progress pics tonight.

Fabric is here. Color is perfect. The test yard actually washed up really nicely (am I a lunatic for washing a wool? possibly? did it work out fine? Also possibly), with only very minimal to no shrinkage, so I am tempted to cut and sew and then wash, so I don't have to worry about fraying. And also so I don't have to wait to cut and sew any longer then my work day lol. Also, this fabric is so swoon worthy. Feels and looks more like a linen in regards to texture and drape, but definitely has the substance of a wool - like a heavy weight linen without the stiffness.

Well, the linen/wool blend I was looking at for my mantua just went on 70% sale again. Granted, it's a blend, but I can let you know what the quality is like, and then we can watch out for sales on coat weight - fabricmart . com is pretty regular with absurd sales in their linens and wools, and I've heard very good things about their quality in general. Otherwise, Kalamazoo Dry Goods is another place I window shop for wools at. It's all closeout rolls they buy from factories and manufacturers, so availability is hit or miss, but they are all "name brand" wools typically, and you can get heavyweights closer to that $20 range. So, ultimately, I bought out the last of the supply of the linsey-woolsey (or as they prefer to call it, "Linen/Wool Slubbed Suiting", which is not nearly as fun to say as linsey-woolsey) so I will have more then enough for my mantua, and for an undetermined future project.