Period Button HOLES?

[Mick MacAnselan]

I'm working on some breeches, and I'm mostly machine sewing, mainly because I don't have the hand sewing skills yet. Luckily most of the stitches will be invisible anyway. But it occurs to me that sewing machine button holes will really stand out. Anyone know the correct period (GAoP) method of sewing button holes? TIA!

[Capn_Enigma]

I own a collection of authentic 17th century button holes.

For a modest fee (say 1 Piece of Eight ea.), I am willing to sell you a few (just the holes, fabric not included).

Please let me know if you're interested.

[Fox]

Enigma, I've seen your holes on ebay and they're quite clearly made of synthetic hole, which even the most novice of costumers knows was not invented until 1835 when the Irishman Dermot O'Logical discovered it by accident while trying to repair his wellies. 17th century my foot!

Mick - blanket stitch is fairly easy, period, and does the job - and yes, machine done button holes stand out a mile.

[Patrick Hand]

Mick MacAnselan, just go to your Public Library and check out a sewing or embordery book.... it will show you how to do a blanket/button hole stitch....

(if that dosen't work, I can scan and post a drawing showing how it is done...)

[Mick MacAnselan]

Foxe / Mr. Hand,

Thanks for the tips. I did some searching, but the links I found on Blanket Stitch and Buttonhole Stitch seem to be contradictory. Would the stitch you're talking about be one of the stitches on either of these two pages?

Blanket Stitch - Sew News Magazine

Stitches - Buttonhole-Blanket Stitch - Heritage Shoppe - Oconto, WI

Thanks!

[Fox]

The stitching in the first link is what I was referring to, except with button holes you don't need to turn the edge over, you work with the raw edge, and the stitches need to be smaller and closer together than if you were edging a blanket.

On the second link what they call "open" and "closed" blanket stitch are basicaly the same thing, just done closer together - "closed" is what I would use for button holes. The "buttonhole" stitch on the second link looks more complex but is probably more robust (though I've never had any problem with a simple blanket stitch anyway), so you could use that if you prefer.

[Slopmaker Cripps]

The blanket stitch WORKS for buttonholes, but it's not a real buttonhole stitch. Both stitches are similar, though a real buttonhole stitch as a nice little purl on the top edge, which adds to the protection of the fabric around the buttonholes. Keeps the buttonhole from wearing out as quick and then messing up the material. For a buttonhole stitch, you come through the material towards you, form a loop, go through the loop, then the back side of the material (coming out towards you) then back through the loop. When you pull the thread it should form the purl on top. From there, you just form the loop and keep going from there. I recommend practicing on scrap fabric before doing them on the breeches.

Cheers,

Adam C., Slop-man

[Gentleman of Fortune]

I read a description of some GAoP (or at least around the GAoP) clothing and recall that they used blanket stitch in their description.

I have used both while making clothes but prefer the button hole stitch myself.

GoF

[Patrick Hand]

Humm... the second one look interesting.....

I had to look it up... what I sew for button holes is actuly the same way as a "worked eyelet" (the "caught" part of the loop is on the fabric, not in the button hole) I guess by doing it the other way, there would be more thread inside the button hole, but I like how the loop makes a finished edge to the button hole. never had a problem with the threads wearing through....... going to have to try that other one tho..... like I typed... it looks interesting.