Getting a coat made

[Bilgemunky]

Well mates, I'm finally getting me own frock coat made - my one concern is material. From what I've seen, wool seems one of the most popular choices, and somewhat fancier lookin' than cotton or duck, but I worry about the heat. Granted, I live in Wisconsin, so that's only a concern about three weeks out of the year, but I do hope to wear this thing in warmer ports now and again.

What are your own experiences?

[The Doctor]

I'm curious about this, as well. My wife has agreed to make my coat, but we're unsure about the fabric. Minnesota and Wisconsin can get very humid, and I don't want to stew in my own juices.

[Gentleman of Fortune]

Well that all depends on what you want really. I start by directing you to my website page that dicusses the matter at

http://www.gentlemenoffortune.com/sailorskit.htm

if you scroll about halfway down you will see the bit about Justaucorps/Coats.

Also, I have links to some good fabric suppliers on the links page too.

A an authentic justaucorps will be a serious undertaking as far as having one made. You are really having two coats made because the lining is like an additional coat sewn into the "outter" coat.

Two resources that will really help you make up your mind as to what you want are

Textiles in America 1650-1870 F Montgomery

and

The Cut of Men's Clothes N Waugh

Fabrics can be a lot of different things depending on your personal prefrences. Silk would be a good choice (Satin, Taffeta, Grosgrain or Atlas weave are good choices) but so would linen, Wool, and some blends (wool/silk, wool/worsted wool, silk/linen).

IF you go with silk, you should make the lining out of silk too. Linen or wool flannel could work for just about all the other choices.

Contrary to popular belief, there were lots of stripes, and colorful "prints" during this time too, though its really difficult to find a period print thats made now days. (Check out the links under fabrics... if you got the do-ray-me you can have some NICE silk damasks, silk velvets, and such.

Hope this helped

GoF

[Rumba Rue]

Sadly there be no getting away from the heat in the summer if you're going to wear any kind of frock coat. You're going to sweat. This is the USA, not cold lands across the sea.

Most of the people I know, myself included tend to lean towards brocaded types of fabric, or cotton velvet. If you can put in a lightweight cotton lining it would help with the heat factor.

Some people don't put any linings in their coats to keep it lightweight. However unless you are a well and knowledgeable maker of costumes and know the tricks of how to do seams, you end up with fraying, loose threads hanging out or seams that have been badly Sergered, all showing when you least expect it.

I would never make a coat or bodice for someone without a lining.

For someone who is paying serious dollars to have a coat made, unless otherwise specified by the buyer not to put a lining in, it's expected.

Quality is far better than quantity.

Rumba Rue

** **

[lorien_stormfeather]

Wool garmets are comfortable all year because they breathe. Yes you can wear wool in the summer!

Just don't overdue it on the weight and line the coat with a natural fabric like cotton.

[The Doctor]

My wife told me about a local source for an incredible variety of fabrics, including summer weight wools. Looks like we get to dig through a fabric warehouse this weekend! Now, if I can just afford her rates.

[hurricane]

Wool's a good choice if you're up north, but don't try it down Florida way in summer. You'll breathe, but die. It's not the heat but the humidity and wool will just get soggy and heavy down in the south. Not fun for piratin' all day long outside.

Visit the upholstery section. You'll find better fabrics of a more substantial weight. Too often cotton or lighter fabrics look droopy, particularly in areas like the cuffs of a good coat.

- Hurricane

[Hawkyns]

I just picked up some white on white linen brocade from Burnley and Trowbridge and had it dyed a dark rose. That'll be my new weskit with tie-on sleeves. Frock coats get in the way for me. Evne in the winter, they're generally too hot to dance in, and if I'm looking for weather protection I want hard, coarse wool.

Hawkyns

[The Doctor]

What I find myself tempted to do is forget the coat if the weather's too warm and stay with the shirt and vest only. If there's a chill in there air (say, in September), I'll add the coat. :)

The droopy cuffs in non-wool coats can be handled with a bit of stiffening interfacing, but now we're straying from period workmanship again.

[lorien_stormfeather]

Hurricane: I don't know how you folk wear ANY clothes at all in Florida! The gentleman was from Minnesota, I believe. He probably does need summerwieght due to the humidity during faire season.

I guess I was thinking of here (Oregon) where we dress like pyrates all year!

Lovely linen brocade sounds nice, I never think of dyeing it when I see bargain fabrics or white!

Haven't had much luck with dyeing personally... I have 3 pairs of pink & black spripey socks that I need to remedy from a failed attempt! They are cotton, were suppossed to come out burgandy and I thought I followed directions....

There are some nice cotton twills available- look for "bottom weights". Some folks spray cotton twill with diluted bleach to get that weathered look.

One of my friends has his coats made of oiled cloth imported from England.

If'n you asking me..."Don't ask, Don't tell" when it comes to "non period" clothing construction (especially that wot ye can't spy!).

....Besides I'm not about to go raise the sheep, card and wash the wool, spin and dye and weave the fabric and sew a justaucorps by hand!

I play with a spindle and wool, but that's just for fun and makin' lumpy knittin' yarn. (I'm not very good at it either!)

[Evil Tiny]

I gots meself a wool frock, and it be of lighter 11oz vs. a 16oz wool. I agrees with Hawkins in that most times it just be in the way, but I has never sweated an abnormal amount while wearin' it. Not even when takin' me vows.

[The Doctor]

"Gentleman"? Please, love. I work for a living!

I'll most likely go with a summer weight wool with a cotton-blend lining, and if it proves too flimsy in the cuffs, my long suffering wife will use some interfacing to shore it up.

I grew up in the South (Alabama), and I mistakenly thought I was escaping the humidity by moving to Minnesota. Live and learn, eh?

[lorien_stormfeather]

Scallywag or Gentleman, a man of such warmth is always welcome here in the Pacific Northwest, luv!

[Patrick Hand]

Gentleman of Fortune....

Where did you find the justicorp pattern that is on your web page ? and do you know when it was originaly printed ?

I used the breeches pattern shown, but widened the legs into trowsers, worked great..... (I've discussed the baggy butt elsewhere...)

Anyone thinking of making a pyrate coat, vest or breeches should check his page out.... great stuff....

[Gentleman of Fortune]

Patrick... sent you a PM about the patterns so check your pyracy pub e-mail.

Mad_Jack: Well, if your working, you should have the money for those 1200 per meter silks!

GoF