Capt. Sterling Posted January 6, 2009 Posted January 6, 2009 (edited) Original shift circa 1700 white linen...wide neck w/drawstring and short opening down center front. Sleeve gathered into shoulder and into band at elbow. Elbow band has buttons for closing. Large gore at each side with smaller gore at bottom. Neck and Sleeve finished with bobbin lace. I think this size fits Cheeky or did you adjust yours? Edited January 6, 2009 by Capt. Sterling "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
Capt. Sterling Posted January 6, 2009 Author Posted January 6, 2009 I will post some directions and a more common/contemporary size... "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
Capt. Sterling Posted January 7, 2009 Author Posted January 7, 2009 "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
Capt. Sterling Posted January 7, 2009 Author Posted January 7, 2009 (edited) Linen smock, c. 1700-20 Manchester City Art Galleries, Exploring Costume History 1500-1900, Valerie Cumming Edited January 7, 2009 by Capt. Sterling "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
Jack Roberts Posted January 7, 2009 Posted January 7, 2009 Original shift circa 1700 white linen...wide neck w/drawstring and short opening down center front. Sleeve gathered into shoulder and into band at elbow. Elbow band has buttons for closing. Large gore at each side with smaller gore at bottom. Neck and Sleeve finished with bobbin lace. I think this size fits Cheeky or did you adjust yours? mmmm... Very similar to the dimensions of Brig's new shift I made. But the frilly collar thing? Does that mean I've been making them wrong all this time?
Kate Souris Posted January 7, 2009 Posted January 7, 2009 I am sure it is optional, Jack. Mine don't have frillies...I am not sure, but I doubt that working class folks would have had the money or resources for the frippery.
Capt. Sterling Posted January 7, 2009 Author Posted January 7, 2009 The original has lace attached tis all... you can go without, or add lace or add a simple linen ruffle... "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
Capt. Sterling Posted January 7, 2009 Author Posted January 7, 2009 the main thing when attaching lace or ruffle to the neckline, don't gather it...it will gather as you tie the drawstring... "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
Capt. Sterling Posted January 7, 2009 Author Posted January 7, 2009 Um Cheeky dear, what the hell pattern did you use for your shift???? or don't I want to know.... "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
Capt. Sterling Posted January 7, 2009 Author Posted January 7, 2009 (edited) hang on let me see if I can make this picture larger... Edited January 7, 2009 by Capt. Sterling "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
Capt. Sterling Posted January 7, 2009 Author Posted January 7, 2009 (edited) can anyone read this crap? or do I need to redraw it?? Edited January 7, 2009 by Capt. Sterling "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
michaelsbagley Posted January 7, 2009 Posted January 7, 2009 Not to be a pain in the butt... But would anyone in this discussion mind if I petitioned a moderator to split the Chemise/Shift stuff into it's own thread? I don't think there has been a really good shift/chemise thread here (or at least not in a long time), and having a thread of it's own that can easily be searched for int he future would be a very valuable thing. Anyways, just thought I would throw the suggestion out there.
Capt. Sterling Posted January 7, 2009 Author Posted January 7, 2009 remember 1/2" seam allowance "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
Capt. Sterling Posted January 7, 2009 Author Posted January 7, 2009 Not to be a pain in the butt... But would anyone in this discussion mind if I petitioned a moderator to split the Chemise/Shift stuff into it's own thread?I don't think there has been a really good shift/chemise thread here (or at least not in a long time), and having a thread of it's own that can easily be searched for int he future would be a very valuable thing. Anyways, just thought I would throw the suggestion out there. go right ahead "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
RustyNell Posted January 7, 2009 Posted January 7, 2009 this looks really similar to the pattern I already use - gore and all. Thanks Captain Sterling your a dear! “PIRACY, n. Commerce without its folly-swaddles, just as God made it.” Ambrose Bierce
Capt. Sterling Posted January 7, 2009 Author Posted January 7, 2009 (edited) Edited January 7, 2009 by Capt. Sterling "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
Capt. Sterling Posted January 7, 2009 Author Posted January 7, 2009 "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
Capt. Sterling Posted January 7, 2009 Author Posted January 7, 2009 "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
RustyNell Posted January 7, 2009 Posted January 7, 2009 Ok wow thats BIG! Thanks! “PIRACY, n. Commerce without its folly-swaddles, just as God made it.” Ambrose Bierce
Capt. Sterling Posted January 7, 2009 Author Posted January 7, 2009 (edited) sleeve band approximately 10" to 14" long by 2" wide and add seam allowance Note: seams should be sewn using flat felled seams or french seams The measurements shown are only approximate! You'd best to make a mock from crap fabric first. The distance from your shoulder to mid-calf doubled is roughly the length of the main body of the shift/smock. The length of the gores should be adjusted appropriately. Sleeve band length: Measure your forearm just below the elbow: this measurement plus 2" (1" for buttoning overlap and 1/2" seam allowance on each end) NOTE that sleeve length may need to be adjusted as well... your elbows should be covered. Cut all pieces and neck opening...NOTE neck opening can be adjusted to suit bodice gowns as well... Step 2: sew gores, right angle side toward body of shift, matching the straight grain of the fabric. sew two gores to the front bottom of shift and two gores to the back bottom of shift. Edited January 7, 2009 by Capt. Sterling "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
Capt. Sterling Posted January 7, 2009 Author Posted January 7, 2009 Under arm gusset (cut 2, one for each sleeve) Step 3: Check sleeve length by roughly pinning one sleeve together (including gusset) and pin to shift. Remember finished sleeve should come just below your elbow, adjust length, if necessary. Step 4: Assembly sleeves Fold one gusset in half on the diagonal, and sew on straight edge to each sleeve starting at the edge (head or top) of sleeve "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
Capt. Sterling Posted January 7, 2009 Author Posted January 7, 2009 Step 4: Sleeve band Turn over 1/2" on each end of the sleeve bands and press toward the wrong side. Pin right sides of the bands to the right sides of the sleeves and gather the sleeves to fit the band. Stitch band to sleeve.(use 1/2" seam allowance) Turn band to inside of sleeve, turn under 1/2" along length of band and whipstitch to inside of sleeve. Finish ends of bands with fine whipstitching. Make a buttonhole on each band and sew on a button. Appropriate buttons would be fabric covered or dorset buttons. You could also place a drawstring in the band instead of sewing the ends closed if you like, instead of the button closing. "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
Capt. Sterling Posted January 7, 2009 Author Posted January 7, 2009 Step 5: Sew body Pin body of shift, right sides together keeping bottoms even and keeping top of shoulder fold on top... mark sleeve opening approximately 8" PLUS the length of your gusset, allowing for 1/2" seam allowance. FOR example... if you use a gusset of 6", mark down from top of shoulder approximately 14", then start sewing your side seam together. Sew straight along body edge and then pivot and sew along diagonal/or bias edges of gores to the bottom of shift on both sides. "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
Capt. Sterling Posted January 7, 2009 Author Posted January 7, 2009 (edited) Step 6: set in sleeves Set in sleeves, gathering the sleeve and NOT THE GUSSET, to fit the opening. Sew Edited January 7, 2009 by Capt. Sterling "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/
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