Slops

[Patrick Hand]

INTRODUCTION

This is how I made a pair of semi-period slops. OK, they are made from hemp canvas, sewn with linen thread, and all visible seams are hand finished. So why only "Semi-period ?"......

I can't "back-up" these slops with any good documentation. So they are a reasonable "guess". I'm not sure if the pockets with flaps are period, The Tailor's pattern for knee breaches that I'm basing them on shows where pockets would go, but they are farther forward than where I put them on these slops.

I'm assuming that a Sailor/Pyrate wouldn't go to the nearest Jo Ann's and buy a pattern. He would know the basic cut and fit of slops, but there would be a wide range of variations among Sailor/Pyrate made slops than a pair purchased from the Purser (from the Slop chest)

Other than the machine sewing on the hidden seams, I figure these slops are very authentic, but I'd rather explain 'How' I made then than argue about the documentation and all the details of their construction in TWILL.

Someone that knows how to sew, and is good at figuring things out could use this information to make their own pair. They don't have to be made from Hemp and hand finished, that's just how I made this pair.

Also, Kass sells a pattern for slops, I don't want to hurt her business, I'll answer questions on how I made mine, but if you need more detailed instructions and are uncomfortable drafting a pattern (and fiddling with it to get it to work) You would be better off buying a pattern directly from Kass.

CUTTING OUT THE PARTS

These are the parts cut out for the slops. Showing the back of the leg, the front of the leg, the waistband and a pocket (folded in half)

The ruler shown in the picture is 13", not 12".

This picture shows the 2 waistbands stitched to a chunk of canvas. I had to piece one of the waistbands, but instead of cutting out 4 of them, it's easier to sew two of them to a chunk of canvas, and then cut them out.

[Patrick Hand]

POCKETS

This picture shows one of the pockets stitched to the front of the slops for the pocket flap.

The pocket is then turned and topstitched.

[Patrick Hand]

FLY

Once both pockets are topstitched, I sew together the front of the slops, and sew on the fly.

This is the inside view of the fly. It also shows the flat felled seams.

I then sew the seat seam, and then flat fell it. This shows the opening that will be in the center back.

[Patrick Hand]

PUTTING EVERYTHING ELSE TOGETHER

Once I have the pocket flaps, the fly and front sewn together, and the back sewn together, I sew the pockets together, and then sew the side seams, and the inseam.

This picture shows the top of the outside leg seam, and how I catch the back of the pocket, close to the notch in the pocket flap.

This is the outside view of the side seam and the pocket flap. After it is sewn. I fold the little extra from the pocket, and pin it to the front, so the pocket is flat.

Before I sew on the waistband, I turn the seams under and pin them, I will hand sew and flat fell them later.

Now I sew the waistband to the inside of the slops, catching right next to the little tab on the pocket flap. You can also see the pins that are holding the side seam that is folded, so I can flat fell it later.

I turn the waistband to the outside, and then hand sew it.

[Patrick Hand]

This is the bottom of the legs; I don't worry about them not matching, once I have the waistband on, I will try on the slops, and trim them to length.

I then hand sew (flat fell) all the leg seams, sew the buttonholes and the eyelets in the back of the waistband, and hem the bottom edge.

I then sew the pockets using a blanket stitch so they wont unravel.

DONE.

[Patrick Hand]

This will be the last page, once I get a photo showing me wearing the slops.....

[Mary Diamond]

As always, well done, Patrick! Great visuals - a big help to see how it all goes together ~

[Captain Jim]

He does such damn fine work. Huzzah, mate!

[Silkie McDonough]

Patrick,

We had this discussion at PiP last year. I know your slops are not documented but they were made with a general working knowledge of PC slops and the skills of a "Seamster". I think they could well be PC since you were able to make them. Remember, patterns were not sold like they are today and many people made their own clothing. I would venture to say most people made their own clothing. So, Patrick ...I know they are NOT PC ...but they could be.

[CrazyCholeBlack]

I like the way you deal with the pocket on those Mr. Hand. Simple, but has a nice bit of flair on a very utilitarian garment.

Plus if you scroll through the thread really quickly, it's like watching a time lapse of them coming together.

[callenish gunner]

Patrick, I have to agree that since the slops of the day weren't turn out in factories with a standard pattern and the cookie cutter techniques of the later periods up to and including today's clothing. Your slops are as authentic and period correct as any could be. You took your measurements and cut the cloth in the needed shapes and sewed them together in a sturdy fashion holding to the period look and where visible the period stitches ....no more or less than any taylor of the day would have done ...I commend you good sir ....as usual you are an inspiration to those around you and a benchmark for others to strive to meet

[Rusty Barrels]

Ahoy Patrick, I have to say If it can be done by hand then Mr. Hand can do it. Nice Work.

[Jack Roberts]

BUMP, for you Michael! Thanks for bringing this up. I too have a new pair in the works.

[Cannibal Chrispy]

THANK YOU!!! Mister Roberts Sir! And all those who I have pestered with a request for it.

[Guest]

Cool.... Cannibal Chrispy asked me where this thread was.... and danged if I could find it......

I'll have to look for where I got the Hemp canvas from..... about two years ago for my Birthday, Tales of the Seven Seas gave me a gift certificate to a place that sells dying stuff outta the Bay Area (and I'm on their mailing list... I just can't remember their name right now... (you think the rum has something to do with that?) (Oh yeah... and wasn't that sucha Cool gift from Tales......)

Darma... Dharma.... something like that ...Trading company....(I'll look it up from my e-mail folder later... link an' all....)

Anyway.... Hemp is the way to go.....

If you have tried linen for a shirt, instead of cotton..... Well hemp for Slops is just as much better than cotton canvas fer slops (Yeah... I know that doesn't type out right)

[michaelsbagley]

THANK YOU JACK ROBERTS FOR FINDING THIS!!!

I usually pride myself on my ability to navigiate the search function of this site, and not being able to find this drove just about around the bend.

I finished the first pair past night, tonight I finish the leather goods I am working on and draft the patterns for the next two pairs... And if I have time I will post pics of the first pair.

As a side note, I added the link to this one to Patrick's Thieve's Market Clothing Index in my last post there where I cleaned up all the links so they work again.

[pyrateleather]

I'll have to look for where I got the Hemp canvas from..... about two years ago for my Birthday, Tales of the Seven Seas gave me a gift certificate to a place that sells dying stuff outta the Bay Area (and I'm on their mailing list... I just can't remember their name right now... (you think the rum has something to do with that?) (Oh yeah... and wasn't that sucha Cool gift from Tales......)

Darma... Dharma.... something like that ...Trading company....(I'll look it up from my e-mail folder later... link an' all....)

Anyway.... Hemp is the way to go.....

If you have tried linen for a shirt, instead of cotton..... Well hemp for Slops is just as much better than cotton canvas fer slops (Yeah... I know that doesn't type out right)

Would that be one of these? Looks like they have some nice fabrics. I've ordered dyes from them before.

[michaelsbagley]

Although I have never bought from them, Hemp Traders has been recommended to me... I can't remember by whom, but if whoever has ordered from them has any feedback (good or bad) it might be worth checking out as well.

[Joe Pyrat]

We should consider a Resource List on the Pub to catalog all these product sources like Hemp Traders. Use a standard format for the subject like Hemp Traders - fabric, or Pirate Trading Company - general merchandise. It would come in very handy.

[Guest]

The link pyrateleather posted to Dharma trading Company is who I got the hemp from. I also bought some black silk that I use for a scarf.

http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/1643...nav=fabric.html

I had a gift card from Tales of the Seven Seas, so I didn't shop around, but their service was good, and I have ordered canvas from them also.

[Lily Alexander]

Although I have never bought from them, Hemp Traders has been recommended to me... I can't remember by whom, but if whoever has ordered from them has any feedback (good or bad) it might be worth checking out as well.

It was probably me Michael. I've made several purchases from hemp traders and I love this place. Good quality products, reasonable prices and great customer service. All of the materials for my seabags, ditty bags, lanyards, etc..............I think we have every size rope they carry by now. They have turned me into a hemp snob :) If you do a lot of rope work, once you go hemp there is no comparison to more readily available products. No matter where you get the hemp from. Anyway, I highly recommend Hemp Traders.

[michaelsbagley]

Although I have never bought from them, Hemp Traders has been recommended to me... I can't remember by whom, but if whoever has ordered from them has any feedback (good or bad) it might be worth checking out as well.

It was probably me Michael. I've made several purchases from hemp traders and I love this place. Good quality products, reasonable prices and great customer service. All of the materials for my seabags, ditty bags, lanyards, etc..............I think we have every size rope they carry by now. They have turned me into a hemp snob :) If you do a lot of rope work, once you go hemp there is no comparison to more readily available products. No matter where you get the hemp from. Anyway, I highly recommend Hemp Traders.

I was going to say it was you and/or Edward... I just didn't want to call you out if I was wrong. And since now I knnow where the recommendation came from, and since I have touched and felt their hemp (when you guys showed me it), it is awesome stuff!

[Mr.Tignor]

To the good Mr.Hand, if at all possible could you get a few more pictures of how the pocket is fitted into the slops, or a bit more detailed of an explanation(i want to make sure i dont muck it up lol). im starting a pair of slops this week and i dare say this idea appeals to me greatly. Once again well done, one day i hope to be at least half as good as you!

[Dutchman]

"Once again well done, one day i hope to be at least half as good as you!"

pfft- don't we all!

reggie, if after a bit of work its still not coming together, let me know and we can meet up and show a pair.

[callenish gunner]

Lily, Edward and Michael, we were talking about Hemp Traders during our Cabin Fever Weekend in February for sources of hemp fabric and hemp rope and twine. I ordered a lot of hemp twine from them for my daughter to do marlinespike/macrame work and some fabric to make a couple of hammocks. That's one of my projects for the summer to take to PIP to lounge under the trees on the beach.