Gentleman of Fortune Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 Well, our unofficial start date was Nov 1st so lets get started. If you are new to the project, you can check out the Topic Starter (on this forum) called "Group Justaucorps Project". You can join in at any time its not a race or contest.... So, my latest is I haven't decided which material to use.... even after a month of thinking about it. I got some more grosgrain silk... So now I have a some blue for the body and some scarlet for the turn-back cuffs..... My goal is to make something like this I still need some lining material though. Anyone have a cheap source for tafetta? PS This is the site that the plate above is from http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/mwebcgi...epage;id=500837 Its great for nice early justaucorps examples. Greg Come aboard my pirate re-enacting site http://www.gentlemenoffortune.com/ Where you will find lots of information on building your authentic Pirate Impression! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kass Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 Mine is not a cheap source, Greg, but it's a good one. Thai Silks is a great source for 100% silk tafetta. Their 110 gram or "thai silk" is the perfect lining material. Or you could use a habatoi. Much cheaper, but harder to work with... Building an Empire... one prickety stitch at a time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gentleman of Fortune Posted November 3, 2006 Author Share Posted November 3, 2006 Kass... You back? Of course, the Pub expects an after action report! Greg Come aboard my pirate re-enacting site http://www.gentlemenoffortune.com/ Where you will find lots of information on building your authentic Pirate Impression! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cap'n Pete Straw Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 What? Were we supposed to start? I must have nodded off. I have another event-packed weekend ($200 dollar a plate black tie dinner tomorrow), but as I have reported, I already have my material and buttons (photos taken, to be posted). Cutting to begin soon. I hope to tackle that this weekend. "He's a Pirate dancer, He dances for money, Any old dollar will do... "He's a pirate dancer, His dances are funny... 'Cuz he's only got one shoe! Ahhrrr!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cap'n Pete Straw Posted November 18, 2006 Share Posted November 18, 2006 Kass! Help! Okay, be patient with me... I have been sewing for over 35 years, most of that time has been clothing and costumes utterly from scratch -- using no pattern whatsoever. I have been using patterns with spectacular results for (only!) around 15 years, and am not stupid, but allow me to ask a very naive sounding question -- treat me for five minutes as someone who does not have any clue... When cutting the Justacorps pattern, how should I best determine my size? A tape measure wrapped around my chest just under the armpits (perhaps I should have showered first!) with a reasonable inhalation (not over-inflating my lungs) gives me a measurement of 44", which is what I had memorized my size to be (that's the size of my tux). I do NOT plan on first making a waistcoat, although I will certainly be wearing one, so I plan on adding a full inch to this measurement to make a garment that is just a little bit roomy -- enough to accommodate most any other garment worn underneath. IMHO, a little loose will be better for this over-garment. Before I begin cutting my one-and-only huge piece of wool... Am I on the right track here? Are my calculations off? Is there something obvious I am overlooking, and should be considering before taking up my scissors? Sorry -- I am suddenly second-guessing myself. I think I am awaiting your blessing before I embark... "He's a Pirate dancer, He dances for money, Any old dollar will do... "He's a pirate dancer, His dances are funny... 'Cuz he's only got one shoe! Ahhrrr!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kass Posted November 19, 2006 Share Posted November 19, 2006 Consider yourself blessed, my dear. There's nothing wrong with your logic. You're doing everything perfectly right. Cut away! Building an Empire... one prickety stitch at a time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gentleman of Fortune Posted December 19, 2006 Author Share Posted December 19, 2006 I hate to do this to you folks... but I switched my personal project over to a "trouser" project. I loaned mine out.... a long time ago and have yet to get them back. Plus, I still can't get the right lining material for my Justaucorps. I keep looking, and when I find it I will start on that project. Sooooo...... In the meantime, I will post my progress with the trousers. Its amazing how much quicker they go together when you don't have to draft the pattern yourself. GoF Come aboard my pirate re-enacting site http://www.gentlemenoffortune.com/ Where you will find lots of information on building your authentic Pirate Impression! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cap'n Pete Straw Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 Sorry to be behind in posting my report. This is why I cannot get anything done... And another, just of Willow: Anyway, that's the "fancy" fabric for my fantasy justacorps. It's my trial run to be sure I am not screwing up. I have just about finished the lining stage, but have put that one on hold because my confidence is boosted enough to work on the wool one. So... here is the wool, linen and buttons for my "real" justacorps. As I am home sick for the day, I might be able to get some significant work done on this. I had wanted to take that picture with the buttons scattered over the fabric, but the cats thought it was a really terrific game, and put an end to my attempt. I found most of the buttons, but I have a feeling there may be one or two still shoved under some of the furniture. "He's a Pirate dancer, He dances for money, Any old dollar will do... "He's a pirate dancer, His dances are funny... 'Cuz he's only got one shoe! Ahhrrr!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt Grey Posted January 25, 2007 Share Posted January 25, 2007 LOL! I have that same problem, Capt Pete. I do my cutting of fabric on the floor and the cats play the "lets crawl under this nice fabric" game. Lumps are very hard to cut around. Captain, we always knew you were a whoopsie. Rumors of my death are entirely premature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCholeBlack Posted January 25, 2007 Share Posted January 25, 2007 LOL! I have that same problem, Capt Pete. I do my cutting of fabric on the floor and the cats play the "lets crawl under this nice fabric" game. Lumps are very hard to cut around. you need to train them to sit on the fabric. Cats make great fabric weights. Is that wool gab Pete? I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product! "If part of the goods be plundered by a pirate the proprietor or shipmaster is not entitled to any contribution." An introduction to merchandize, Robert Hamilton, 1777Slightly Obsessed, an 18th Century reenacting blog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt. Sterling Posted January 25, 2007 Share Posted January 25, 2007 Fabric weights? I'm trying to get mine off! Just found a great substitute two ply, plain, loose weave black cotton for flag bunting (until we can have the proper woollen fabric made), its folded up on the end of the work bench and is now her "bed"... and is covered in white cat hair... ack. "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ransom Posted January 25, 2007 Share Posted January 25, 2007 It's so reassuring to see that I'm not the only one who ends up with cat hair on their garb before I even have a chance to wear it! My four seem to think that pattern paper makes the most fun noises as they pounce and shred it. ...schooners, islands, and maroons and buccaneers and buried gold... You can do everything right, strictly according to procedure, on the ocean, and it'll still kill you. But if you're a good navigator, a least you'll know where you were when you died.......From The Ship Killer by Justin Scott. "Well, that's just maddeningly unhelpful."....Captain Jack Sparrow Found in the Ruins — Unique Jewelry Found in the Ruins — Personal Blog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cap'n Pete Straw Posted January 27, 2007 Share Posted January 27, 2007 Oh, they will sit on the fabric, all right. And sleep on it. And thus the problem. At least I was working on two garments. Willow (the infinitely frictionless soft grey kitten) insisted on sitting upon my woolen justacorps. I could only get her to move off so I could sew the pocket flaps by folding the OTHER one into a more enticing bed. When I cut my fabric sections, I typically fold them with the pattern back up into bundles and set them aside until needed. Jackson (the grey-and-white kitten) has discovered some perverse joy in "diving" into the interior of these bundled packages, which had the effect of shredding the paper pattern pieces. When I started keeping the pieces inside a plastic storage bin with an interlocking lid, Willow found a way to worry it open. And they do this without opposible thumbs. I am keeping the weapons in the basement. "He's a Pirate dancer, He dances for money, Any old dollar will do... "He's a pirate dancer, His dances are funny... 'Cuz he's only got one shoe! Ahhrrr!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Hand Posted January 27, 2007 Share Posted January 27, 2007 Or you could just give them some wool and linen, and the Kitty Justaucorp pattern, so they can make thier own...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cap'n Pete Straw Posted January 27, 2007 Share Posted January 27, 2007 Somthing about monkeys and typewriters suddenly comes to mind... "He's a Pirate dancer, He dances for money, Any old dollar will do... "He's a pirate dancer, His dances are funny... 'Cuz he's only got one shoe! Ahhrrr!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cap'n Pete Straw Posted January 27, 2007 Share Posted January 27, 2007 Here's a shot where I left off on the fancy justacorps... I'll get back to one that after the wollen one. "He's a Pirate dancer, He dances for money, Any old dollar will do... "He's a pirate dancer, His dances are funny... 'Cuz he's only got one shoe! Ahhrrr!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sjöröveren Posted January 28, 2007 Share Posted January 28, 2007 At least I was working on two garments. Willow (the infinitely frictionless soft grey kitten) insisted on sitting upon my woolen justacorps. I could only get her to move off so I could sew the pocket flaps by folding the OTHER one into a more enticing bed. If she's infinitely frictionless, shouldn't a gentle puff of air send her skidding across the floor, like an air hockey puck? You may have invented a completely new sport! the Fool's Gold Pirates Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cap'n Pete Straw Posted January 28, 2007 Share Posted January 28, 2007 At least I was working on two garments. Willow (the infinitely frictionless soft grey kitten) insisted on sitting upon my woolen justacorps. I could only get her to move off so I could sew the pocket flaps by folding the OTHER one into a more enticing bed. If she's infinitely frictionless, shouldn't a gentle puff of air send her skidding across the floor, like an air hockey puck? You may have invented a completely new sport! She still has needle-sharp claws. But her fur.... "He's a Pirate dancer, He dances for money, Any old dollar will do... "He's a pirate dancer, His dances are funny... 'Cuz he's only got one shoe! Ahhrrr!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cap'n Pete Straw Posted January 28, 2007 Share Posted January 28, 2007 I finished the justacorps last night. All the material, sewing, pockets, pocket flaps, lining, etcetera etcetera, has all been done. Now all that remains is the button holes... Ugh. "He's a Pirate dancer, He dances for money, Any old dollar will do... "He's a pirate dancer, His dances are funny... 'Cuz he's only got one shoe! Ahhrrr!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lady Alyx Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 Beautiful material Capn Pete, where will you be wearing the fantasy Justacorps to? Where did you finally get your lining material and what did you choose. I was lazy with my frock coat I have, about 5 years ago I picked up a Burgandy Velvet coat in a Thrift shop and kinda tweaked it a bit to make my frock coat. Would love to make one from scratch...but I have seen there are some sexier cuts for women's frocks. example: Dark Angel ~~~~Sailing Westward Bound~~~~ Lady Alyx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BILLY BONES Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 Yikes Alex, you set this old man's mind reeling. Capt. William Bones Then he rapped on the door with a bit of stick like a handspike that he carried, and when my father appeared, called roughly for a glass of rum. This, when it was brought to him, he drank slowly, like a connoisseur, lingering on the taste, and still looking about him at the cliffs and up at our signboard. "This is a handy cove," says he, at length; " and a pleasant sittyated grog-shop. Much company, mate?" My father told him no, very little company, the more was the pity. "Well, then," said he, "this is the berth for me." Proprietor of Flags of Fortune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cap'n Pete Straw Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 Beautiful material Capn Pete, where will you be wearing the fantasy Justacorps to? Where did you finally get your lining material and what did you choose. I was lazy with my frock coat I have, about 5 years ago I picked up a Burgandy Velvet coat in a Thrift shop and kinda tweaked it a bit to make my frock coat. Would love to make one from scratch...but I have seen there are some sexier cuts for women's frocks. The lining was just a complimentary version of the same pattern. I have no idea where I'll wear the "fantasy" one. Possibly Port Washington... who knows? Who cares? I have been busting my butt on the button holes on my wool coat. Nightmare. And tonight I have a few projects to wrap up for RF2, then pack the car -- so I'll be wearing that justacorps with whatever buttonholes I manage to sew tonight. The rest will have to wait... "He's a Pirate dancer, He dances for money, Any old dollar will do... "He's a pirate dancer, His dances are funny... 'Cuz he's only got one shoe! Ahhrrr!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lady Alyx Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 Does your machine have a button hole maker. I still have my mom's old sewing maching from I am guessing the 80's and it has no real automatic way of doing buttonholes,...arrrrrh. So I have avoided making any clothing due to that. My g/f at X-Mastime was in emergency for buying a new sewing machine so I could help her fix her New Year's costume of a Saloon girl. We got a pretty nice one at Costco that had a gazillion things you could chose. I did not experiment with it since I had to learn that machine that evening. I think it was about 179.00 with a 20 buck discount I believe. I am tempted to get the same one and give my mom back her old has been. LOL. The reason why I asked where you wear your Fantasy Frock to is that here in Cali we have a Fantasy Ball called the Labyrinth Ball based from the dreamscape from the Movie Labyrinth. I will attach link so you can look at photo's there are some nice coats in there as well. Labyrinth photo page ~~~~Sailing Westward Bound~~~~ Lady Alyx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lady Alyx Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 He he he Billy I have a way of doing that to the feller's.. :) ~~~~Sailing Westward Bound~~~~ Lady Alyx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelsbagley Posted April 2, 2008 Share Posted April 2, 2008 Although I did not make this as a part of the group project... I thought re-surfacing this thread would be the most appropriate way to show off the new coat. Made from the Reconstructing History pattern (of course). The outer fabric is 100% wool, in what I would call a ochre or mustard coloured "wool broadcloth", the lining is a charcoal coloured tropical weight 100% wool. The stitching is all done with natural linen thread, the buttonholes are all done with coloured linen thread (I tried to match the wool but didn't quite get it perfect). The buttonholes are all hand sewn, and there is 116 of them. 10 = 5 on each cuff 18 = 9 on each pocket flap 40 = on the front closure 48 = 16 on each of the three vents (sides and rear vents) Not exactly the best picture ever, but it was late, and it was the best I could do at the time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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