[Captain Midnight]

Ahoy Mates,
Does anyone know of a commercially (or otherwise) available pattern for a coat appropriate for the years 1710-1715 that would be fairly easy for a novice to assemble? I started to buy the "Jack Sparrow" pattern from Simplicity, but I really prefer something that is completely historically accurate instead. Any help would be so greatly appreciated, and me thanks in advance!

[Gentleman of Fortune]

you can use the patterns from Waugh's The Cut of Men's Clothes. I will worn you though, that they really are not meant for the novice.

I welcome you to check out the resources on my pirate website. I have a lot of info on Men's clothing and some examples of Justaucorps that you might find helpful.

Pirate Clothing

GoF

[Captain Midnight]

GoF,
Your web site is an outstanding asset to us reenactors, and is very helpful and informative! Thanks for the hard work you've put into it to help us better our impressions. What type of buttons would be best for such a coat? 3/4" plain brass domed?

[Captain_MacNamara]

Here's a pattern for a 1750's coat. I know it's a little late for what you're wanting, but I would think it's at least closer than the halloween costume patterns available.

1750's Coat

[Captain Midnight]

Thank ye, Cap'n MacNamara, that is a good link. I particularly like the coat shown in the middle, I just wish it was a little closer to my time period. However, you are indeed correct: it is much better than the Halloween patterns!

[Gentleman of Fortune]

Awwww Geeee ****BLUSH****

Thanks for the kind words about my site. It has turned into a labor of love. I would like to point out though, that It includes a lot of information Gleaned and/or pirated from some of the members here.

A special thanks to Black John (his group's Photos litter my site), Ed Foxe, and David Rickman for their tireless pursuit of 17th/18th century history.

Quote

What type of buttons would be best for such a coat? 3/4" plain brass domed?

This is a sticky wicket as well. I guess my best answer is "it depends".


Here is a great link to buttons recovered from wrecks and various sources, a lot are Spanish but this will give you a good idea of what we are talking about for GAoP
Early 18th Century Buttons


If you are making an every day regular blokes justaucorps/coat, then

Pewter, Brass or Copper would be good.

In my opinion, Earlier Coats (ie GAoP) had smaller buttons and they progressively get bigger later in the century. I would choose 3/4 inch buttons like18BC101 & 18CB103



For really nice silk, velvet, or nice wool "Gentlemen's coats, you are going to need passementerie buttons. They are basically, domed wooden molds covered/wrapped in metal (gold/silver) wire


or you could do fabric covered buttons.... more to follow

gof

[blackjohn]

Gentleman of Fortune, on Sep 13 2005, 01:12 AM, said:

A special thanks to Black John (his group's Photos litter my site)

Hey man, it's your group too! I just wish you were here to enjoy it with us!

[Captain Midnight]

Thanks, GoF! It looks as though my idea of plain brass domed buttons was not too far off base! Thanks again!

[MadMike]

The Simplicity pattern leaves much to be desired, both in layout and method of instruction. Basically I altered the pattern to that of a historical 1700 coat pattern obtained from "The Costumers Manifesto" website. I reviewed period pictures for more specifics on buttons, cuffs, pockets, seam lines, etc (GoF's website has some great stuff, as does Kass McGann's).
Unfortunately, all I have at the moment is a digital phone camera of my work in progress and the pics leave much to be desired-

http://www.geocities...e/projects.html

To be done- sew on sleeves, fit and alter as necessary, order buttons, sew buttonholes (28 or so), hem raw edges, etc.

Yours, &c.

Mike

[Gentleman of Fortune]

Egad!
I think that i have been going down the wrong track a bit on my short jacket construction... not to bad a setback but a lot of needless button hole sewing (for those of you who do em by hand, you will feel my pain!).

My interpretation of the shortjacket was that the cuff slit was closed via a pocket like flap. Now while I have seen this in paintings/pictures of GAoP Justaucorps coats, on common sailors coats (and indeed a lot of justaucoprs) there is no additional "pocket" flap, just button holes and buttons on the sleeve itself.

I love/hate research!

Here is what I am saying... take a look at the sleeves of the guys on the left side

[JoshuaRed]

Looks to me like many of the common short jackets have simply a slit at the cuff, with a button on one corner of the slit and a hole on the other. This would allow the sleeve to merely hang open if roominess was desired, or it could be rolled back and buttoned so as not to catch on stuff, or buttoned snug around the wrist area....is that about right, or am I way off? This is of particular importance to me for a painting I'm working on.

[blackjohn]

Greg, here's a link to the Dutch Captain...
http://www.piratebre...com/sailor2.jpg

And fwiw, links to a 1730ish coat...
http://www.piratebre...oat/coat001.gif
http://www.piratebre...oat/coat002.gif

My apologies to the gov't of Canada...

[Gentleman of Fortune]

On behalf of Her Magesties Government in Canada.... THANKS

Cool links that I have never seen before. And the larger C & Boy pic helps too!

The boy has a single button closure on his jacket, and the Captain has multiple buttons but no pocket flap closure on his justaucorps.

Whew.... lots of sewing and resewing tonight....

GoF

[MadMike]

GoF,
I think there may be some short jacket details in the pictures of Anne Bonny and Mary Read.
Also, there are several period pics on Foxe's website.

Status of hand sewn coat project- sewed on sleeves and cuffs. Finished hem on front facings of coat (fits nice).

To be done- hem bottom of coat (tonight), cut out and sew pocket flaps and pockets. Order brass domed buttons, sew botton holes...

See the latest work here-

Pirates of Massacre Island

http://www.geocities.com/flpyrate/projects.html

Yours, &c.

Mike

[Captain Midnight]

Ahoy Mike,
Can you describe to me in detail exactly what it is that you altered on the Simplicity pattern to make a correct coat? If it is simple detail, I could buy the pattern and make the alterations too. Thanks!

[MadMike]

Captain Midnight,
Basically I cut out the Simplicity pattern, ignored the instructions (which leave much to be desired IMHO), and used common sense tailoring skills.

I added material to the back of the pattern to give it the flare or skirt like appearance of historical specimens and period pictures. GoF has an example here-

http://www.gentlemenoffortune.com/images/j...orpspattern.jpg

The Costumers Manifesto

http://www.costumes....es/leloirX1.htm

Yours, &c.

Mike

[Gentleman of Fortune]

The correct link to mikes site with the latest pictures of his justaucorps is
http://www.geocities...e/projects.html

Good work mate. You have fast fingers. I am taking my time with the short jacket... I am learning to enjoy sewing though... My personality is the kind that wants to rush through things to get it done regardless of the consequences (like having it look Fkd up). SO I am taking my time with this one.

On other fronts... I found about 3 meters (by about 1 meter) of Linen striped ticking, and about 3 meters of blue checked linen ticking, 3 meters of vintage linen, and a 1937 luftwaffe dated blanket at a flea market last weekend.

It almost makes up for the fact that I was away from the house, my always on DSL connection died, and my sniper program was unable to get 150 pewter ORIGINAL buttons from the early 18th centruy.

They went for about $14... less than TEN CENTS A PIECE..... AGHHHGHGHGHHGHG!!!!!!!!!!!

GoF

[MadMike]

GoF,
Thanks for the head's up, corrected the link.
I'm waiting to order buttons, seems some tropical disturbances are interefering with my purchase plans (what else is new in the Gulf of Mexico these days?!?). Kinda sucks having to budget large sums of cash for evacuation purposes...
Let's see, I think I began working on the coat the first week of September, do about 3 hours of sewing each night. Screwed up a few times in the process, but hey, like you said, better have it done right then rushing it

Think my next project will be a short jacket, let us know how things progress.

Yours, &c.

Mike

[Captain Midnight]

And you say you made your coat from the Jack Sparrow Simplicity pattern, Mike? Damn! That's an awesome job you've done so far. My hat's off to ye, mate. I must admit that I went out and bought that pattern this evening, I'll just alter it to a more correct style like you did. Good work, mate!

[oderlesseye]

Eye have been waiting for months for this coat.
we finally got it completed.. Note the mariners cuffs.

This post has been edited by oderlesseye: 22 August 2009 - 03:02 PM

[lady constance]

Seromycin C.o.d. in in New YorkLos AngelesChicagoHoustonPhoenixPhiladelphiaSan AntonioDallasSan DiegoSan JoseDetroitSan FranciscoJacksonvilleIndianapolisAustinColumbusFort WorthCharlotteMemphisBaltimoreEl PasoBostonMilwaukeeDenverSeattleNashvilleWashingtonLas VegasPortlandLouisvilleOklahomaTucsonAtlantaAlbuquerqueFresnoSacramentoLong BeachMesaKansas CityOmahaClevelandVirginia BeachMiamiOaklandClevelandVirginia BeachMiamiOaklandRaleighTulsaMinneapolisColorado SpringsHonoluluArlingtonWichitaSt. LouisTampaSanta AnaAnaheimCincinnatiBakersfieldAuroraNew OrleansPittsburghRiversideToledoStocktonCorpus ChristiLexingtonSt. PaulAnchorageNewarkBuffaloPlanoHendersonLincolnFort WayneGlendaleGreensboroChandlerSt. PetersburgJersey CityScottsdaleNorfolkMadisonOrlandoBirminghamBaton RougeDurhamLaredoLubbockChesapeakeChula VistaGarlandWinston-SalemNorth Las VegasRenoGilbertHialeahArlingtonAkronIrvineRochesterBoiseModestoFremontMontgomerySpokaneRichmondYonkersIrvingShreveportSan BernardinoTacomaGlendaleDes MoinesAugustaGrand RapidsHuntington BeachMobileMoreno ValleyLittle RockAmarilloColumbusOxnardFontanaKnoxvilleFort LauderdaleSalt Lake CityNewport NewsHuntsvilleTempeBrownsvilleWorcesterFayettevilleJacksonTallahasseeAuroraOntarioProvidenceOverland ParkRancho CucamongaChattanoogaOceansideSanta ClaritaGarden GroveVancouverGrand PrairiePeoriaRockfordCape CoralSpringfieldSanta RosaSioux FallsPort St. LucieDaytonSalemPomonaSpringfieldEugeneCoronaPasadenaJolietPembroke PinesPatersonHamptonLancasterAlexandriaSalinasPalmdaleNapervillePasadenaKansas CityHaywardHollywoodLakewoodTorranceSyracuseEscondidoFort CollinsBridgeportOrangeWarrenElk GroveSavannahMesquiteSunnyvaleFullertonMcAllenCaryCedar RapidsSterling HeightsColumbiaCoral SpringsCarrolltonElizabethHartfordWacoBellevueNew HavenWest Valley CityTopekaThousand OaksEl MonteMcKinneyConcordVisaliaSimi ValleyOlatheClarksvilleDentonStamfordProvoSpringfieldKilleenAbileneEvansvilleGainesvilleVallejoAnn ArborPeoriaLansingLafayetteThorntonAthensFlintInglewoodRosevilleCharlestonBeaumontIndependenceVictorvilleSanta ClaraCosta MesaMiami GardensManchesterMiramarDowneyArvadaAllentownWestminsterWaterburyNormanMidlandElginWest CovinaClearwaterCambridgePuebloWest JordanRound RockBillingsErieSouth BendSan Buenaventura (Ventura)FairfieldLowellNorwalkBurbankRichmondPompano BeachHigh PointMurfreesboroLewisvilleRichardsonDaly CityBerkeleyGreshamWichita FallsGreen BayDavenportPalm BayColumbiaPortsmouthRochesterAntiochWilmington - Cycloserine

No longer was it limited to major depression, a clinical diagnosis marked by extreme emotional pain and inability to function. purchase seromycin without prescription Seromycin C.o.d. Mild-to-moderate depression has become a catchall diagnosis that will be slapped on one in four Americans at some point in their lives. Inventing Illness, Selling Drugs Today, 4 percent of men and 10 percent of women in this country are taking antidepressants. where can i buy seromycin online Seromycin C.o.d. The bulk of the prescriptions for these meds are written by primary care physicians, not psychiatrists, and most of these "depressed" patients receive no other treatment or follow-up. buy seromycin in the uk Cycloserine C.o.d.

In fact, the drugs seem to be handed out indiscriminately. Get A Seromycin Without Prescription, Buy Seromycin (Cycloserine) In The Uk, Where Can I Buy Seromycin Online, tramadol online buy Buy Seromycin (Cycloserine) Online, Purchase Seromycin Without Script Next Day Delivery, Seromycin (Cycloserine) For Sale Online purchase seromycin without script next day delivery,

The Centers for Disease Control reported that, after nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), antidepressants are the most frequently prescribed of all classes of drugs! Dr.Healy describes this mess as "wholesale creation of depression on so extraordinary and unwarranted a scale as to raise grave questions about whether pharmaceutical and other health care companies are more wedded to making profits from health than contributing to it." If this sounds familiar, it's because you've heard me harping on this concept of "inventing illness" for over 20 years. Seromycin (Cycloserine) C.o.d. Most of the ballyhoo about high cholesterol, ADHD, fibromyalgia, gastroesophageal reflux disease, and even high blood sugar and blood pressure is fueled by market-driven campaigns designed to do one thing: sell more drugs. But the antidepressant story may be the worst of them all. how much does seromycin cost

you can get the simplicity jack sparrow pattern and modify the front and the cuffs to period correct shapes that you desire....

i have both RH and the simplicity jack sparrow patterns.....
i used jack sparrow pattern and the shapes of the lines fom RH....

if you are a novice sewer-- your learning curve is going to depend on how much of a quick study you are...

if you simply read the directions to either pattern and think to yourself "what the hey?????"... use cheap fabric since you might not like what it turns out to be....doing, hopefully, will teach you more than reading....

i have a few years of sewing{ not even close to decent by tailor standards} but i find that men in general can think inside out and backwards...

ummmm....i used the jack sparrow pattern and recut the bell sleeves and reworked the front a tiny bit---
my husband wore it to PIP last year , and the one thing that folks commented most on WAS that coat.......

yah dont always have to explain your construced peices to folks--- if they like it,say "thanks!"--
whenyou find someone that you want and desire their opinion truly, you can tell them and take their advice for the next peice you make...
would you like to see the jackets i have made my husband?????
using both patterns as mere templates and adding to or subtracting from???

and getting REAL technical here, people tend to sell short the patterns from major commercial pattern makers---

i have compared the lines of commercial patterns and RH, and a few other vendors patterns---
THEY ARE SO CLOSE--- a few lines shapes diferent here and there--- but they are so close that after being sewn together and placed side by side, YOU CANNOT TELL-- perhaps captain sterling or mary diamond can, but LOL-- they have YEARS in the business....


you have to ask yourself " am i wanting to be 100% historically accurate?"
or
"if it is close enough, is that ok for me as a beginner. i shall give myself a time frame to work myyself up to the standards."
and one has to remember that there are time and money constraints placed upon all of us.... factor those in too...

lady constance

[lady constance]

so ------ post pictures when you are done...i would love to see them...

happy sewing!!!!

[lady constance]

Seromycin C.o.d.: where can i buy seromycin online	Seromycin C.o.d.: purchase seromycin without script next day delivery	Seromycin C.o.d.: buy seromycin online	Seromycin C.o.d.: where can i buy seromycin online
Seromycin: purchase seromycin without prescription	As I will show you, these drugs do not work, they have the potential of inflicting tremendous harm-and, worst of all, the drug companies have known this for decades.	buy seromycin online how much does seromycin cost iv push compazine seromycin for sale online	Antidepressants Don't Work... How Much Does Seromycin Cost	buy discount seromycin Earlier this year, researchers evaluated published and unpublished pre-approval clinical trials that compared SSRI drugs with placebos.

yah know, i have to admit that when i am sewing, i do hate to simply sew aa a commoner-- i want the glitz and bling bling of the wealthier classes of people to imitate....

and i think that is common among all folks entering this pirate re enacting...
and it always seem to impress me that the people who really know this craft ,steer us towards common folk... to master that task first....
there is wisdom in that, but there is a bit of boredom in that way from our end...
here we are trying to live out a fantasy, and wanting the glitz and glamour of fantasy that we dont have in our daily lives....so we peruse that in our hobby...pirating....

when we dig deeper into levels of what truly was the everyday life ofthe pirates was, we find there was much hard work and very little glamour....

there was BLAH in their daily life and doings--- everything that i have read supports thefacts that people made do with very little....
but no one wants to re enact THAT!!

somewhere in your mind, you must decide what youare willing to do and what you are not willing to do to be part of a group....what your purpose in actually re enacting that you are enchanted with,and following your fantasy there-- making what you see in your minds eye, reality of clothing for yourself and those re enacting with you....and what you shall actually be doing at these re enacting events.....

if you fall in love with it, you will put{and enjoy doing so!!} up with alot of other kinds of people--and learn alot and choose too stay involved..in the degree that works with your true everyday life......

you will find a group of what i call " good people"...and they make staying worth it....
they will enrich your life in the area of pirating and your everyday life in general.....

for me, i simply enjoy learning and the challenges of rising to the occasion... seeing if i can do that...can i master a new set of skills and thinking and doing? yes i can!

and i must add that no matter what level another holds for themself and their gear, they ARE encouraging....
and you have to chose what level you chose to re enact at....

most of all you must and will find out if you are comfortable trusting your judgement on mnay things--and that will depend on the research you do indepenedant of the group....some of my best research was not done online, but insewing texts and art books at my local librabry... no one can sway me from what i have learned and read and have seen....

may it be the same for you...
no hobby is worth loosing your peace ...
find your mantra and say it often.....
and remember that behaviours are things people do and not who they are.....
you can be upset with the behaviour of another person, and still love the person!!
as i always tell my family " we can hate bad behaviour,but we can never hate another person~!!"

lady constance

[oderlesseye]

This is a 1750's British Officers coat.




All that needs to be added is gold trim around the collar.
It is sewn by
a novice friend of mine..For her first attempt and for the purpose

Seromycin C.o.d., How Much Does Seromycin Cost, Get A Seromycin Without Prescription, They combined the results in a meta-analysis and came up with some disturbing findings.

Seromycin C.o.d. Cycloserine SSRI antidepressants work no better than placebo, and their benefits do not meet the criteria for clinical significance. buy seromycin online

For patients with moderate depression, SSRIs were a complete bust. purchase seromycin without script next day delivery The differences in improvement between people with severe depression taking a drug and those on placebo were virtually nonexistent. buy seromycin online

Seromycin C.o.d. purchase seromycin without prescription The sole group in which the drugs outperformed the placebo consisted of the most severely depressed patients, but the researchers concluded that this small difference was probably due to "decreased responsiveness to placebo... purchase seromycin without prescription

Eye
commissioned it to be made was for other reasons than just "reenacting"..
It is first and foremost a fantasy outfit to match my mural in Dead Mans Cove of which Eye have uncannily achieved. The reference material for the pirate in the mural is simply an artist rendition from the book called Piratology. Eye look like the painting. Eye wore it for the first tyme on my 10th anniversary when we threw a party this last weekend in the cove. Eye will post some side by side comparison pictures.
Eye do agree that more "bling" can be added when Eye find more information on details.
This was before the slops contract was made where no two ships uniforms were alike anyways with this kit. There were over 120 different military units in the 1750’s-1760’s. The other reason for this jacket is for ren fair where Eye and a friend can have some fun arresting pirates. Ultimately, This is all about having some fun...
If my job was being a living history person being paid to represent a period of history down to the last thread then well ok..Ya gotta eat so you research something for ten years before a sewing needle can be picked up and threaded. Mean while because that ain't the case...I am taking my time being creative along the way as Eye become more historicly interested in being correct..Though for this item of garb,
Eye think this coat is very close to being accurately period to the early 1750's.

This post has been edited by oderlesseye: 26 August 2009 - 05:05 PM

[lady constance]

wooooooo hooooooooooooooo!!

buy your seam stress friend some roses!!!! {or more fabric if that delights her more!!}

love the photos!
love the coat!

now you need to photo yourself in it!!!

ijustlove it!!!

you did good!!
:) :)

lady constance

[oderlesseye]

OK..We got the pics taken and so here Eye Be...~ First is just a comparison Photoshoped pic to make the image of the mural bigger so we can see better.

This post has been edited by oderlesseye: 28 August 2009 - 08:40 PM

[Iron Hand]

oderlesseye, on 28 August 2009 - 08:34 PM, said:

OK..We got the pics taken and so here Eye Be...~ First is just a comparison Photoshoped pic to make the image of the mural bigger so we can see better.

Nice coat Tavern looking nicer each time I see it as well...Huzzah

[LadyBarbossa]

wow... ::amazed:: ye look beyond sharp, Oderlesseye! Stunnin' in fact. wow. :) Bravo! Ye look like ye can commandeer and command a fleet o' ships!


~Lady B

[oderlesseye]

Quote

wow... ::amazed:: ye look beyond sharp, Oderlesseye! Stunnin' in fact. wow. :) Bravo! Ye look like ye can commandeer and command a fleet o' ships!

Eye thankie fer the compliment..
Eye have Still, a bit of werk to complete the kit.

This post has been edited by oderlesseye: 03 September 2009 - 04:57 PM