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Tarred gear - ever done it? Got tips, advice?

#1 User is offline   JoshuaRed 

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Posted 19 January 2005 - 03:09 AM

I'm thinking of tarring my cocked hat. Anyone ever try doing this? Got any tips on substitute/modern materials? Good online sources for tar? :)
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#2 User is offline   Foxe 

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Posted 19 January 2005 - 06:45 AM

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I've got 2 or 3 of tarred hats, all of which were done in a slightly cheating way. Black bitumen paint. It's tar based but spreads easily, can be applied with a paint brush, thins down easily if necessary, and dries pretty well. Once dry it looks like tar, feels like tar, smells like tar and is waterproof. It will take two or three coats at least, but I reckon must be the easiest way.

I've seen tarred hats done with blackboard paint and varnish, but I don't think that's so effective. It is waterproof and looks ok, but it doesn't have the smell.

I've also done tarred clothing the same way. For clothing you need to thin the bitumen out, I use turpentine, then paint it on in the same way. The cloth is naturally somewhat stiffer, but not unwearable and is completely waterproof.

For those so inclined one of those spray bottles you use for the ironing filled with linseed oil does a fair job of making oilskin clothes - again they're stiffer, but they're also waterproof.
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#3 User is offline   Wartooth 

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Posted 19 January 2005 - 12:02 PM

Wear gloves. I can't emphasize that enough. That stuff will NOT come off your hands without taking a layer of skin with it. :o

Foxe's idea of bitumen paint is a really good one. I hadn't thought of doing that, but certainly will next time. Thanks Foxe!

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#4 User is offline   blackjohn 

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Posted 19 January 2005 - 01:00 PM

My friend Ed has tarred a hat. I'd bet dollars to doughnuts he did it the "real" way. He'll probably be at the Pirate Feast....
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#5 User is offline   the Royaliste 

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Posted 19 January 2005 - 02:26 PM

I guess my first inquiry is 'what are you referring to as tar?'.....Traditional Stockholm tar from pine bolls boiled, or some 'bituminous oil byproduct'?........which smell RR you seeking, 'wooden boat', or 'oilfield'?..Stockholm tar comes off your hands with a little work, really stickey, tho'

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#6 User is offline   the Royaliste 

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Posted 19 January 2005 - 02:28 PM

JoshuaRed, on Jan 19 2005, 02:09 AM, said:

I'm thinking of tarring my cocked hat. Anyone ever try doing this? Got any tips on substitute/modern materials? Good online sources for tar? :)

American Rope and Tar is the best traditional source ship riggers use....

#7 User is offline   JoshuaRed 

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Posted 19 January 2005 - 03:25 PM

Thanks! Yeah a substance akin to period would be nice.
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#8 User is offline   Patrick Hand 

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Posted 19 January 2005 - 11:06 PM

Iv'e made tarplin hats (canvas) and painted them with oil base paint (used a chunk of foam as a brush....so there was no messy clean up....just throw the foam away.... ).... works good, and dries so you don't get any in you hair........ (don't get any smell tho...) but it is waterproof.

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For those so inclined one of those spray bottles you use for the ironing filled with linseed oil does a fair job of making oilskin clothes - again they're stiffer, but they're also waterproof.

I made an oilcloth ground cloth that I painted with linseed oil....(once again... using a foam chunk for a brush)(oh yah..... let it dry out of sunlight... not sure why.... but that is what I was told....). unfortunately.... after I let it dry, it still stayed "tacky" (picked up a lot of redish dirt..... so it "looked" right....kinda rusty....) but my friend mixed his linseed oil with about 50/50 turpintine.... painted it on the cloth...... worked better...... wasn't tacky.... and it didn't change the color of the cloth........ and it was waterproof.....
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#9 User is offline   JoshuaRed 

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Posted 19 January 2005 - 11:22 PM

Someone told you that for the right reason: linseed oil can spontaneously combust! :) Be careful with it and turpentine. But I don't think it's sunlight specific - this can happen in a dark basement or garage just as easily. To be on the safe side, take rags/foam/towels soaked in this stuff to a place like an auto garage that has hazmat disposal methods.
Also, placing oil based paints/materials in sun or wind to dry does nothing to speed the process. It's a chemical reaction that just takes time. Water based paints however will dry quickly outside.
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#10 User is offline   Patrick Hand 

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Posted 19 January 2005 - 11:58 PM

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Someone told you that for the right reason: linseed oil can spontaneously combust

Hummmmm.... and I thought it had something to do with dry rot or something.......... guess dumb luck is my friend......... :lol:
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#11 User is offline   Cap'n Pete Straw 

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Posted 20 January 2005 - 01:11 AM

D'ye mind cheatin'? I have made some tarred canvas equipment and am extremely happy with it... and NO ONE has seen through the short cut.

I use black fabric paint, available at most craft stores. When the stuff goes on clearance sale, I purchase a few bottles and save 'em for a project. The secret is to apply the paint sparingly and rub it into the fabric -- this way, you get a dull "tarred" look, and not a shiny plastic look. Advantages: it is a non-offensive chemical (does not combust, will not kill you, etc.), and it is totally waterproof. And can be had cheap, if you wait foir the clearance sales.

Reject my input if you wish (and I welcome the purists to do so)... but it works, and it works well. Aside from the (lack of) odor, you really cannot tell it from the "real thing" without careful scrutiny
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#12 User is offline   JoshuaRed 

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Posted 20 January 2005 - 02:47 AM

Hey that's a damn fine idea Straw! I'm not knocking it. However I do wish to have the tar smell, along with my pipe tabaccy, sarrdust, rum and low tide. :huh:
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#13 User is offline   Cap'n Pete Straw 

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Posted 22 January 2005 - 09:31 AM

Easily solved! Inside your "tarred" haversack, carry a small tin of real tar, and pull it out to take a whiff everytime you have a yen for the odor...
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#14 User is offline   dasNdanger 

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Posted 02 March 2005 - 11:03 PM

There's another way to get that nice pine tar smell...go to the 'beauty supply shop' and look for Bronner Bros. Pine Tar super gro conditioner (it may be in the ethnic hair care section). Gah - I LOVE the smell of this stuff!! I can get plenty of pine tar from the schooner, but I'm not gonna put that in my hair...but this you can. Rug it in, and go around smelling like smoked BACON the rest of the day!!

dang...now I'm hungry... :rolleyes:

das

#15 User is offline   Cap'n Pete Straw 

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Posted 12 March 2005 - 11:11 AM

MMmm... Bacon-aroma-coif. MMmmm....

Gee, you hair smells horrific.
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#16 User is offline   Patrick Hand 

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Posted 14 March 2005 - 12:49 AM

I just painted a canvas hat..it worked. but the weater was bad(cold) so the paint "took" slowly......... not shure if this ansures anything,.......
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#17 User is offline   Cpt. Alva 

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Posted 06 June 2009 - 10:28 AM

anybody got any pics of period tarred items?

coats, hats, etc?
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Posted 06 June 2009 - 03:11 PM

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Did several 'tarred' hats in 2004/5 using the Bitumen paint method (It's the sort of thing they use for sealing water tanks), used a thinned version to start leaving it to cure for a couple of days 'tween each coat then shaved off any bobbley bits of felt, rolled the sides up and put several more layers of unthinned on, left that a week then gave it a coat of shellac varnish (French Polish).

Before the hat was tarred I sewed a thin piece of linen inside as a hatband, stitches as near the bottom as poss and once I'd finished tarring I used this to hang the lining on. Just a precaution as in a previous job I had to paint the inside of a tank with said paint and where the stuff got on my skin, especially my face, it tanned/or cured it like having the skin on your face shrunk one size or the aftermath of a REALLY bad suntan, took two weeks to peel so I dint want anyone getting chemical burns off a hat that I made..........................................................mebbe a reason to wear a scarf under a hat, stop the AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARGH IT BURNS feeling?

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#19 User is offline   Grymm 

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Posted 06 June 2009 - 04:32 PM

19thC tarred straws from Posted Image
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#20 User is offline   Cpt. Alva 

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Posted 06 June 2009 - 07:13 PM

View PostGrymm, on Jun 6 2009, 02:11 PM, said:

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Did several 'tarred' hats in 2004/5 using the Bitumen paint method (It's the sort of thing they use for sealing water tanks), used a thinned version to start leaving it to cure for a couple of days 'tween each coat then shaved off any bobbley bits of felt, rolled the sides up and put several more layers of unthinned on, left that a week then gave it a coat of shellac varnish (French Polish).

Before the hat was tarred I sewed a thin piece of linen inside as a hatband, stitches as near the bottom as poss and once I'd finished tarring I used this to hang the lining on. Just a precaution as in a previous job I had to paint the inside of a tank with said paint and where the stuff got on my skin, especially my face, it tanned/or cured it like having the skin on your face shrunk one size or the aftermath of a REALLY bad suntan, took two weeks to peel so I dint want anyone getting chemical burns off a hat that I made..........................................................mebbe a reason to wear a scarf under a hat, stop the AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARGH IT BURNS feeling?

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where'd you get the squared top?, did you block it yourself?
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#21 User is offline   Grymm 

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Posted 07 June 2009 - 03:32 PM

View PostCpt. Alva, on Jun 7 2009, 01:13 AM, said:

where'd you get the squared top?, did you block it yourself?


That one was blocked (by me) over a bit of tree trunk I rescued from a mates winter woodpile which was nigh on perfect for my headsize once I'd peeled the bark off, but I do now have a couple of flat top blocks courtesy of ebay (search for hat block or hat form) and a car boot sale near Luton, one time centre of hatmaking here in the UK.
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