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Chemises and Shifts


Capt. Sterling

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Original shift circa 1700 white linen...wide neck w/drawstring and short opening down center front. Sleeve gathered into shoulder and into band at elbow. Elbow band has buttons for closing. Large gore at each side with smaller gore at bottom. Neck and Sleeve finished with bobbin lace.

Originalshift.jpg

I think this size fits Cheeky or did you adjust yours?

Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

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I will post some directions and a more common/contemporary size...


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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originalshiftHistorybook.jpg


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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secondshift.jpg

Linen smock, c. 1700-20 Manchester City Art Galleries, Exploring Costume History 1500-1900, Valerie Cumming

Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Original shift circa 1700 white linen...wide neck w/drawstring and short opening down center front. Sleeve gathered into shoulder and into band at elbow. Elbow band has buttons for closing. Large gore at each side with smaller gore at bottom. Neck and Sleeve finished with bobbin lace.

Originalshift.jpg

I think this size fits Cheeky or did you adjust yours?

mmmm... Very similar to the dimensions of Brig's new shift I made. But the frilly collar thing?

Does that mean I've been making them wrong all this time?

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The original has lace attached tis all... you can go without, or add lace or add a simple linen ruffle...


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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the main thing when attaching lace or ruffle to the neckline, don't gather it...it will gather as you tie the drawstring...


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Um Cheeky dear, what the hell pattern did you use for your shift???? or don't I want to know....


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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hang on let me see if I can make this picture larger...

Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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easyshift2.jpg

can anyone read this crap? or do I need to redraw it??

Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Not to be a pain in the butt... But would anyone in this discussion mind if I petitioned a moderator to split the Chemise/Shift stuff into it's own thread?

I don't think there has been a really good shift/chemise thread here (or at least not in a long time), and having a thread of it's own that can easily be searched for int he future would be a very valuable thing.

Anyways, just thought I would throw the suggestion out there.

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smock2.jpg

remember 1/2" seam allowance


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Not to be a pain in the butt... But would anyone in this discussion mind if I petitioned a moderator to split the Chemise/Shift stuff into it's own thread?

I don't think there has been a really good shift/chemise thread here (or at least not in a long time), and having a thread of it's own that can easily be searched for int he future would be a very valuable thing.

Anyways, just thought I would throw the suggestion out there.

go right ahead


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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sleevesmock.jpg Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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gussetsmock.jpg


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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goreforsmock.jpg


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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sleeve band approximately 10" to 14" long by 2" wide and add seam allowance

Note: seams should be sewn using flat felled seams or french seams

The measurements shown are only approximate! You'd best to make a mock from crap fabric first.

The distance from your shoulder to mid-calf doubled is roughly the length of the main body of the shift/smock. The length of the gores should be adjusted appropriately.

Sleeve band length: Measure your forearm just below the elbow: this measurement plus 2" (1" for buttoning overlap and 1/2" seam allowance on each end)

NOTE that sleeve length may need to be adjusted as well... your elbows should be covered.

Cut all pieces and neck opening...NOTE neck opening can be adjusted to suit bodice gowns as well...

Step 2: sew gores, right angle side toward body of shift, matching the straight grain of the fabric. sew two gores to the front bottom of shift and two gores to the back bottom of shift.

GOREDIR.jpg

Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Under arm gusset (cut 2, one for each sleeve)

Step 3: Check sleeve length by roughly pinning one sleeve together (including gusset) and pin to shift. Remember finished sleeve should come just below your elbow, adjust length, if necessary.

Step 4: Assembly sleeves

Fold one gusset in half on the diagonal, and sew on straight edge to each sleeve starting at the edge (head or top) of sleeve

gussetdir.jpg


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Step 4: Sleeve band

Turn over 1/2" on each end of the sleeve bands and press toward the wrong side. Pin right sides of the bands to the right sides of the sleeves and gather the sleeves to fit the band. Stitch band to sleeve.(use 1/2" seam allowance)

Turn band to inside of sleeve, turn under 1/2" along length of band and whipstitch to inside of sleeve. Finish ends of bands with fine whipstitching.

Make a buttonhole on each band and sew on a button. Appropriate buttons would be fabric covered or dorset buttons.

You could also place a drawstring in the band instead of sewing the ends closed if you like, instead of the button closing.


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Step 5: Sew body

Pin body of shift, right sides together keeping bottoms even and keeping top of shoulder fold on top... mark sleeve opening approximately 8" PLUS the length of your gusset, allowing for 1/2" seam allowance. FOR example... if you use a gusset of 6", mark down from top of shoulder approximately 14", then start sewing your side seam together. Sew straight along body edge and then pivot and sew along diagonal/or bias edges of gores to the bottom of shift on both sides.

sideseams.jpg


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Step 6: set in sleeves

sleevesetin.jpg

Set in sleeves, gathering the sleeve and NOT THE GUSSET, to fit the opening. Sew

Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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