Daniel

Pattern for a sailor's shirt?

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So I know a place where I can get blue and white checked linen, which I know is period material for a sailor's shirt. Does anybody know where I can get a period pattern for cutting and sewing it? Showing what kind of cuffs, collar, pleats, and stuff like that to use? Anything from 1680 to 1750 would be close enough.

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Well, do you want a commercial pattern, or a cutting diagram? Machine or hand sewing this? Probably the best person to consult would be Captain Sterling.

In the mean time, I'll look through my sources for earlier period shirts. So far I'm only finding 1750 and onward (where I've spent most of the last two decades). But I know there's earlier period stuff around here.

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By the way, I was wrong about the blue and white checked linen; it was only 51% linen and 49% rayon. So I'm going with a plain linen instead.

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Just a cutting diagram. I'm going to hand sew with silk thread (couldn't find linen thread).

I found a diagram here from 1769 which looks pretty good: http://www.marquise....er/18hemd.shtml,

That's too funny, I was about to send you that link! It might say 1769, but by the time things get published in that time period, the information has been used for a decade or more, so you're pretty safe. And the method doesn't really change. If you have trouble with the gussets (which I doubt you will) there is at least one online tutorial for that.

Also, Burnley and Trowbridge sell various grades of linen sewing threads. I am using an 80/3, 60/2 and 50/3 weight between three different projects (sort of depends on what's available in the color I need). The white linen is the finest, I think that's the 80/3 (it's really fine, almost looks like cotton sewing thread). The trick is to use short lengths of thread so it doesn't unravel. Wax also works if you're just sewing an under garment in linen.

Good luck!

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William Booth, draper also sells linen thread...also I think he carries a blue & white linen, not sure of the weight though..

I would do a test on those sizes provided first in cheap fabric...as most provided are usually too small...also remember you aren't seeing too many tall collars until later in the 18th century.

Also check out a book called, help me here Jen, Rural Pennsylvania clothing...helpful with the instructions...

Edited by Capt. Sterling

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Author for above book, Ellen Gehert

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William Booth, draper also sells linen thread...also I think he carries a blue & white linen, not sure of the weight though..

I would do a test on those sizes provided first in cheap fabric...as most provided are usually too small...also remember you aren't seeing too many tall collars until later in the 18th century.

Also check out a book called, help me here Jen, Rural Pennsylvania clothing...helpful with the instructions...

Yep, that would be one of them. And the giraffe like collars definitely aren't in yet, although though the book on shirts seems to indicate their size overlaps (no time at the moment to analyze this). I need to look at this further.

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OK, the shirt is as done as it's going to get before Halloween; everything is finished except the slit gussets and the stitching on the hem. For the cuffs, would buttons or hooks and eyes be more period?

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Buttons, especially linked buttons (the forerunner of cuff links). Although the norm in our time is to do them like modern shirts.

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