lady constance

1720's jump draft in linen

21 posts in this topic

ok----

this draft is based on Mooses /Captain Sterlings second posted picture...

1.i think the neck line is a bit too high and perhaps even not quite the correct curve/shape

2. i think the arm scythes are too high and need instead a deeper cut

sooo..... does anyone mind comparing the 2 garments and telling me your opinion?

and i also think i read that they had boning in the side seams AND the back down the middle... what say you?

and i fully intend to runa small slice of boning down the front right and left side so that the spiral lacing wont bunch up the front

opinions please!!!

DSCN5313.jpg

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The arm scythes definitely need to be lowered and opened, I'd open the neckline a bit wider not necessarily lower but an inch or two wouldn't hurt. Are you thinking of doing embroidery or crewel work on them? (which I would mark off the pattern outlines on a piece of linen and before I'd cut out the final piece I'd mount in a hoop and do the needle work) From what I've read and seen they were lightly boned but not stitched through the outer layers of the cover. The boning would be in inner layers and following the same sort of lines as the stays would have used; allowing the skirting to be much more flowing. Jumps were a bit more casual or working garments from what I've read.

Edited by callenish gunner

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Callenish--

i think you are dead on about the arm scythes being cut deeper in the garment.(and i am pretty sure i have figured out how much to chop off to attain the look)

and also about the neck shape/ line....(and i am sure that i have that cut figured out too}

no-- i was not planning on embroidering/crewel work--i am not that good yet!!! i have a soft pink silk/wool blend that LOOKS quilted in design--so i am planning to "cheat" that way--get the look without the work LOL!!!--or once the desing is perfected, i could use my embroidered flowered fabric---but i beleive it is 100% poly!! and it may prove to be too hot to wear--even with a linen lining... not sure which i shall choose.

and about the boning being on the inner lining and then the garment outside then attached,,yes-- just have to figure out how to do that....and make it lay and look fitted well.... that will be a nice challenge...

and do you also mean that, the inner lining has as much boning as a set of stays? do i understand you correctly? is that what you mean?

well must go dream about the whole process...i get answers there..

THANK YOU EVER SO MUCH for your input!!!

:)

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No it would have less than half the number of "bones" with space between

Edited by callenish gunner

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ok----

this draft is based on Mooses /Captain Sterlings second posted picture...

1.i think the neck line is a bit too high and perhaps even not quite the correct curve/shape

2. i think the arm scythes are too high and need instead a deeper cut

sooo..... does anyone mind comparing the 2 garments and telling me your opinion?

and i also think i read that they had boning in the side seams AND the back down the middle... what say you?

and i fully intend to runa small slice of boning down the front right and left side so that the spiral lacing wont bunch up the front

opinions please!!!

Who are you making the jumps for? Is that dressform an exact copy of that person? If not then you may need to put the draft on them before you trim anything. I may be telling you something you already know but anywhoo... If you added boning only where you stated it would make it like a typical french bodice like most women wear at faire. I think it would look odd like that since the body is much longer. Like Callenish said above... You should add boning all the way 'round yet with wide spacing.

Edited by Liam McMac

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Jumps weren't always boned and certainly when boned, the existing examples that I have read about were only lightly boned...supposedly these garments were to be worn at home not in public where proper stays were expected.

The ones you are making a copy of are in the other thread, read their description, if boning is even mentioned, your next best thing would be to contact Williamsburg, where the original is currently housed and ask exactly where the boning lies, if there is any...they are usually very good about helping..

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Liam--the jumps are on my form that i made out of duct tape(ME)... so they are for the correct person... and you are right about i would look like a ren faire chick { which i wish to avoid at all costs!!!}

Captain Sterling-- I CAN CALL THE MUSEUM WHERE THEY ARE AND ASK THOSE QUESTIONS? I DONT HAVE TO GUESS? WOW! i did not know that.... wonder if i have enough cell phone minutes to do so....hmmmmm...happen to have the #? { no wait this is the age of the internet--i will google it!!}.......perhaps i shall acquire yet another friend or 2!!!}

once i have the pattern and garment perfected,(WHICH YOU ALL ARE HELPING ME PERFECT!!! THANK YOU ALL SO VERY MUCH!!} i can and will easily recopy the design on more parchment paper--i cannot make adjustments for sizing to a larger size( this one is about a 4/6--34inch bust, 29 inch waist"-- but if a person can do that, well, they can have a pattern for free....

UGGGG. got to attend to my daily duties then MORE SEWING!!!!!!

THANK YOU ALL EVER SO MUCH FOR YOUR INPUT---

YOU GUYS ARE FABULOUS!!

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I think by "contact Williamsburg" Sterling was suggesting you email them, not call them... But I could be wrong. It is just in my experience, they respond a bit more friendlier to emails than phone calls (probably because email allows them to respond at their own pace, and doesn't interrupt them from their jobs).

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Michael, thank you DUHHHHHHHH (what was i thinking look comes over my countenance)-- i am laughing at myself and my silliness!!! LOL!!--

what? no opinion of what you see Michael???? ;)

xxxxxooooo to you and the wifey and kitty

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Michael, thank you DUHHHHHHHH (what was i thinking look comes over my countenance)-- i am laughing at myself and my silliness!!! LOL!!--

what? no opinion of what you see Michael???? ;)

xxxxxooooo to you and the wifey and kitty

I think it is looking good so far... But I agree with the comment that the armscythes look a bit too tight and could use some widening. It's hard to tell from that picture, but the linen you are using looks a bit light... Unless that is the lining, in which case it is perfect. Good work so far. Can't wait to see more progress! ;)

Hugs right back atcha and the whole Thatcher clan too!

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Liam--the jumps are on my form that i made out of duct tape(ME)... so they are for the correct person... and you are right about i would look like a ren faire chick { which i wish to avoid at all costs!!!}

Now that's awesome... I need to make a ductape clone hahaha

Looks good to me

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Yeah I think email would be the best, gives them time to get the answer to you and chances if you call you might not even get the right person to talk with.... I know the V&A is very helpful with email questions. I usually speak to people at Williamsburg face to face.

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Aye Capt. I'm sure Connie will just fly 1000 miles to Williamsburg and zip right to the museum. Can you be standing by at the airport to pick her up and make the introductions? ;)

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Hey she's either dedicated to her hobby or not... :D:lol:

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as i await an email reply, and since you really cant screw up anything so bad that cant be undone....( my personal belief}(golly hope they can draw or explain really well}

i am taking a stab at guessing the boning....( BECAUSE I can remove any piece that wont function as i think it ought to}

really struggling with shall i place boning on the diagonal near the sides as they are placed in stays....?????

so.... here we are thus far....

i am thinking that the boning under the bust should be all vertical, and to the side of your tata's, it should be placed on a 25-30 - 45 degree angle....( not sure which angle to place it.. looking at the stays pattern i have made for ideas....

again-- IDEAS WANTED.....suggestions, comments and other thoughts and natterings requested....

DSCN5326.jpg

DSCN5327.jpg

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well-----

decided the damask was the best choice for fabric... kinf of peachy salmon....

so now i all i have to do is decide whether i am going to put a binding on the edges all the way around... or just stitch together..... SO WHICH IS IT? BIND OR STITCH TOGETHER???

and i am thrilled that my patterns match like near perfect!!!

jumps004.jpg

jumps002.jpg

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Coming along nicely lass ...the pattern matching along the back seam is pretty impressive.;)

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Fabulous fabric, Constance! I'm drooling. :D

Hmmm... good question about stitch or bind. Good question indeed.

Can't wait t' see the piece finished.

~Lady B

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Lady B--- well the biding is half sewn on.... complete around neck.. and on one side at the bottom-- it needs pressing and then eyelets.... chose a satin biding and not a bias tape for better color match.. promise pic tomoorow or later tonight....

thanks for the interest!!!

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jumpswithtrimon.jpg

only the neck line all the way around and the bottom left are sewn done back and front...all the rest is to be finished by hand....the arm holes are a bee itch.... asked hubby to find his leather punch for eyelets....and he is getting soooooooooo fabulous with button holes that i think i may pay him to do all the eyelets....wonder what he will charge me????

and the whole thing needs pressing....

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