Capt. Sterling Posted January 7, 2009 Author Share Posted January 7, 2009 Step 7: Finishing neckline Narrow hem the 3 1/2" slit down the front. Then make a 1/2" casing along the neckline opening. Either turn over a 1/4" raw edge and then fold over another 3/8" and blind stitch to the body to form a casing... or use 1/2" wide linen twill tape, the length of the neckline opening and stitch right side to right side of body. Then turn tape over to the inside, catching raw edges inside the twill tape, and whip stitch closed, forming a casing for the drawstring. IF you wish to add lace, stitch this to the very edge of the casing, do not gather the lace. Insert drawstring. "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt. Sterling Posted January 7, 2009 Author Share Posted January 7, 2009 (edited) Step 8: Hem Turn and stitch a 1/2" hem on the bottom of the shift. For a final touch, embroider your initials at front opening... Shift/smock should fit approximately mid calf length and the sleeves must be long enough to cover the elbows. The seam joining the sleeves to the main body of the garment should fall a little below the shoulder line. IF making a shift to fit a bodice gown you should try it on under the gown, because the neckline should just breach the top of the gown. Make adjustments accordingly. Edited January 7, 2009 by Capt. Sterling "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt. Sterling Posted January 7, 2009 Author Share Posted January 7, 2009 right then someone who has made one, proof read this please...and feel free to add anything that would make this easier to follow. Thanks "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheeky Actress Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 I think this size fits Cheeky or did you adjust yours? Ney Captain...the shift fit me well. Member of "The Forsaken" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheeky Actress Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 Um Cheeky dear, what the hell pattern did you use for your shift???? or don't I want to know.... ! To be honest Captain....I've tried three (3) differnt period correct styles. The one you have posted on this thread is my 'latest and greatest' shift. I do like how the neck lays with this one the most. My first attempt was constructed by instructions given to me by a mutual aquaintance. It did not turn out as well as my last one. My second shift of choice was constructed using several period guides (J. Arnold/Cut of Women's Clothing). I have at least three (3) of them made this way. Member of "The Forsaken" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheeky Actress Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 If I may Captain....To the Ladies... Remember that Shoulders/Bosoms ARE COVERED. Ladies of this time period do not draw down our shifts/chemises to nipple height! Decorum Ladies! Even the Covenant Garden Trollops did not show their wears completely before monies were exchanged! Member of "The Forsaken" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diosa De Cancion Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 right then someone who has made one, proof read this please...and feel free to add anything that would make this easier to follow. Thanks Thanks so much for the pattern, and timely too. We have a crewe sewing session this weekend so I'll give er a try and let you know... Diosa De Cancion aka Mary Read www.iammaryread.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyBrower Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 sleeve band approximately 10" to 14" long by 2" wide and add seam allowanceNote: seams should be sewn using flat felled seams or french seams ..I thought I read somewhere french seams were not used during this period? If they were, then I am ecstatic! Especially as I do not know how to sew flat felled seams just yet. Cook and Seamstress to the Half Moon Marauders Lady Brower's Treasures, Clothing and other treasures Hell Hath No Fury like the Wrath of a Woman... No that's it. She doesn't need a reason. www.myspace.com/halfmoonmarauders www.myspace.com/faerienoodle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelsbagley Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 sleeve band approximately 10" to 14" long by 2" wide and add seam allowanceNote: seams should be sewn using flat felled seams or french seams ..I thought I read somewhere french seams were not used during this period? If they were, then I am ecstatic! Especially as I do not know how to sew flat felled seams just yet. I haven't done any research on seams and when they come in and out of usage... But a good deal of my clothing for this period is French seamed. As for Flat Fell seaming, This Page has the best instructions online that I have found. The diagrams helped me learn flatfelling rather well years ago... I'm just happy the web page has stayed up this long! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Roberts Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 Almost exactly the way if made Brigs last 2 shifts and I drafted the pattern off the Brigs measurements. That was pretty cool. Question, would it be appropriate to cut in at an angle at the shoulders? Thats what I did. I started from where the gusset would sew on and cut diagonally to the shoulders. I left about 2.5 inches for either shoulder. I hope that makes sense. Let me know if I did something non PC. It just seemed to fit her better that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt. Sterling Posted January 7, 2009 Author Share Posted January 7, 2009 sleeve band approximately 10" to 14" long by 2" wide and add seam allowanceNote: seams should be sewn using flat felled seams or french seams ..I thought I read somewhere french seams were not used during this period? If they were, then I am ecstatic! Especially as I do not know how to sew flat felled seams just yet. Kass states that french seams are doable for the time frame "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt. Sterling Posted January 7, 2009 Author Share Posted January 7, 2009 (edited) Almost exactly the way if made Brigs last 2 shifts and I drafted the pattern off the Brigs measurements.That was pretty cool. Question, would it be appropriate to cut in at an angle at the shoulders? Thats what I did. I started from where the gusset would sew on and cut diagonally to the shoulders. I left about 2.5 inches for either shoulder. I hope that makes sense. Let me know if I did something non PC. It just seemed to fit her better that way. Hmmm good question... you see this done on later 18th century shifts/smocks... unfortunately I only have the one line drawing from our time frame and it does not show this... although if one were to fit a larger waisted woman, one might consider tapering the upper shoulder or else it may end up way too big around the neck.... so did they do it for GAoP... not sure... The second shift photo posted... "Looks" as if it could be, but without seeing it laid out flat and up close, can't be certain at all... Edited January 7, 2009 by Capt. Sterling "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt. Sterling Posted January 7, 2009 Author Share Posted January 7, 2009 sleeve band approximately 10" to 14" long by 2" wide and add seam allowanceNote: seams should be sewn using flat felled seams or french seams ..I thought I read somewhere french seams were not used during this period? If they were, then I am ecstatic! Especially as I do not know how to sew flat felled seams just yet. I haven't done any research on seams and when they come in and out of usage... But a good deal of my clothing for this period is French seamed. As for Flat Fell seaming, This Page has the best instructions online that I have found. The diagrams helped me learn flatfelling rather well years ago... I'm just happy the web page has stayed up this long! I am photographing a flat felled seam now, unfortunately tis dark fabric so I don't know how well it will show up... but will post in the petticote thread "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyBrower Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 sleeve band approximately 10" to 14" long by 2" wide and add seam allowanceNote: seams should be sewn using flat felled seams or french seams ..I thought I read somewhere french seams were not used during this period? If they were, then I am ecstatic! Especially as I do not know how to sew flat felled seams just yet. I haven't done any research on seams and when they come in and out of usage... But a good deal of my clothing for this period is French seamed. As for Flat Fell seaming, This Page has the best instructions online that I have found. The diagrams helped me learn flatfelling rather well years ago... I'm just happy the web page has stayed up this long! I am photographing a flat felled seam now, unfortunately tis dark fabric so I don't know how well it will show up... but will post in the petticote thread Captain, Thank you so much for your assistance. I am very excited to start my chemise tomorrow. Cook and Seamstress to the Half Moon Marauders Lady Brower's Treasures, Clothing and other treasures Hell Hath No Fury like the Wrath of a Woman... No that's it. She doesn't need a reason. www.myspace.com/halfmoonmarauders www.myspace.com/faerienoodle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt. Sterling Posted January 7, 2009 Author Share Posted January 7, 2009 Best of success with it and feel free to ask any questions... there is always someone here able to help "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyNell Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 ok the seams have me completely baffled. This is where the fact that i'm NOT a seamstress shows (oop now i know why they use that term I guess that separates the pro from the amateur. Anyway, I just sew stuff together. I'm completely confused by the instruction on the flat felted thingy. Is this to hide the raw edges where the pieces are joined and keep things from unraveling? and if I'm looking at it right, won't that mean the stitches on the seams will show on the outside. So if I'm right that means they won't be hidden, so no shortcut and machine stitch ... bugger all! “PIRACY, n. Commerce without its folly-swaddles, just as God made it.” Ambrose Bierce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelsbagley Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 ok the seams have me completely baffled. This is where the fact that i'm NOT a seamstress shows (oop now i know why they use that term I guess that separates the pro from the amateur. Anyway, I just sew stuff together. I'm completely confused by the instruction on the flat felted thingy.Is this to hide the raw edges where the pieces are joined and keep things from unraveling? and if I'm looking at it right, won't that mean the stitches on the seams will show on the outside. So if I'm right that means they won't be hidden, so no shortcut and machine stitch ... bugger all! You can do the flatfell seam to show the seam outside or hide it on the inside. But there will be a row of stitching showing on a flatfell seam regardless of which way you put the seam. And yes, it is done that way to hide the edge and prevent unravelling. The French seam, hides the edges and prevents unravelling, but is hidden from the outside. French seaming is for the most part a lot easier for beginners. I don't have a handy link that shows how it is done, but I am sure I can find one after dinner, or someone else will have a handy link ready to post. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lily Alexander Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 I came across these three little books that have been a life saver for me. Easy to read and the descriptions are very easy to understand. http://wmboothdraper.com/ The Lady's Guide to Plain Sewing Book I This is a modern reference book for hand sewing basic stitches and starting a sewing basket. Stitches and techniques include proper sewing position, spaced back-stitch, plain hem, rolled hem, open-work hem, felled seam, French seam, plain or running gathers, whipped gathers, button-holes, eyelets using a stiletto, thread (Dorset) buttons using a button stick and tapestry needle, and an 18th century cross stitch alphabet. A valuable addition to any sewing kit! 32 pages. 8 1/2" × 5 1/2" $12.00 The Lady's Guide to Plain Sewing Book II A second volume of the reference book for authentic hand sewing of historical garments and household items, containing additional stitches and seam techniques, gather attachments, making cloth covered buttons using button molds, making thread button using brass rings, gussets and re-enforcements, cord making with a lucet, and an additional 18th century alphabet for cross stitching. Excellent resource for the advanced hand sewer. 32 pages. 8 1/2" × 5 1/2" $12.00 The Workman's Guide to Plain Sewing Tailoring Stitches and Techniques The third in the sewing book series covers numerous tailoring stitches, seam techniques and great finishing touches! Included are tailor's trade and tools, tailor's tack, stay stitching, stay tapes, prickstitch with several variations, bar tacks, attaching buttons, hooks and eyes, and detailed instructions on 18th century style welt and flap pockets. A "must have" addition to your sewing book collection! 32 pages. 8 1/2" × 5 1/2" $12.00 If you're gonna give me a headache, please bring me an aspirin! http://www.forttaylorpyrates.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyBarbossa Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 Tidings of the 18th Century also has a fabulous diagram on the french seam as well as various other seams and stitches. Thank ye for th' pattern image, Sterling. The only thing I didn't care much for in the shift is the neckline. drawstring necklines and I do NOT get along. I do like the idea of the sleeve buttoned though. Would make better since than a draw string. Will have to try that on my next chemise. There are a couple variations of chemises out there, so the lace is not required. Just a little added decoration if wanted (if ye had the money or the talent to make yo'r own lace or tatting). ~Lady B Tempt Fate! an' toss 't all t' Hell!" "I'm completely innocent of whatever crime I've committed." The one, the only,... the infamous! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silkie McDonough Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 Lady B, I agree about the draw string ...until the linen stretches and the neckline becomes a bit too loose. What else are you going to do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyBrower Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 Does the chemise have to have that slit in the front? Also, I saw someone say something about not liking drawstrings... Are there any instances of the chemise being constructed similar to that seen during the civil war? With the neckline gathered or pleated into a strip of fabric, or was the drawstring "it"? Cook and Seamstress to the Half Moon Marauders Lady Brower's Treasures, Clothing and other treasures Hell Hath No Fury like the Wrath of a Woman... No that's it. She doesn't need a reason. www.myspace.com/halfmoonmarauders www.myspace.com/faerienoodle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelsbagley Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 Does the chemise have to have that slit in the front? Also, I saw someone say something about not liking drawstrings... Are there any instances of the chemise being constructed similar to that seen during the civil war? With the neckline gathered or pleated into a strip of fabric, or was the drawstring "it"? The Reconstructing History pattern has a plain straight hemmed neckline, no slit, no pleats, no gathers, just plain. Kass includes historical notes in all of her patterns, so I won't go into provenance for that. All of the evidence for the shift/chemise Sterling has provided makes it look like an upper class garment (to me), and the plainer version may be more appropriate to a working class individual... Not that anyone would want to portray the common folk of the period. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyBrower Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 Does the chemise have to have that slit in the front? Also, I saw someone say something about not liking drawstrings... Are there any instances of the chemise being constructed similar to that seen during the civil war? With the neckline gathered or pleated into a strip of fabric, or was the drawstring "it"? The Reconstructing History pattern has a plain straight hemmed neckline, no slit, no pleats, no gathers, just plain. Kass includes historical notes in all of her patterns, so I won't go into provenance for that. All of the evidence for the shift/chemise Sterling has provided makes it look like an upper class garment (to me), and the plainer version may be more appropriate to a working class individual... Not that anyone would want to portray the common folk of the period. Oh that's good. Now, I wonder if the plain hemmed version could be prettied by ruffles without fudging accuracy? I do so much love a little frivolity.. Cook and Seamstress to the Half Moon Marauders Lady Brower's Treasures, Clothing and other treasures Hell Hath No Fury like the Wrath of a Woman... No that's it. She doesn't need a reason. www.myspace.com/halfmoonmarauders www.myspace.com/faerienoodle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Roberts Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 Well in the shifts I've made I put a silt in the neck line. Crap was that wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelsbagley Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 (edited) Well in the shifts I've made I put a silt in the neck line. Crap was that wrong? You being an Archangel, I would defer you to Sterling's judgement for that... But my opinion, there is enough pictoral evidence to variety of shifts/chemises that any reasonable combination of the fancy or plain shift/chemise styles and details like slit or unslit necks would seem fine to me. Maybe I will start hunting for those images of the Cryes of London that have been posted on the pub so many times, and add the images to this thread to better illustrate the variety. Edit: None of the images I found and recall seem to actually show any details of the chemises... They are covered by scarves or shawls or whatever.... How annoying is that? I will keep looking though. Edited January 8, 2009 by michaelsbagley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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