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stays and other female costume questions...


withoutaname

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Love the colour... they look wonderful...


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Love the colour... they look wonderful...

They're hussy red silk....it said so on the bolt when I bought the fabric! LOL!

Seriously though...it is a red/black changeable silk that I bought when I was working at a ren faire and was going to use it as a fantasy pirate coat thing.

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shame you don't have extra for another mantua... :unsure:


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Yes I read this the first time, but you continued to call them stays and concluded with...Lara did say that this is a great example of the evolution of the stays. ....but you also wrote that Lara said"The Met labeled it a 'Bodice' - and this may be correct. "May" makes it sound as if she might disagree... that is what I was asking...why might she disagree?

What I said it was likely a formal bodice of a gown from the first half of the 18th cen, most likely second quater. The tabs are not covered in matching fabric because they are intended to be under the petticoat waistband while the lower center front and back would be over the petticoat and visible. This was usually done with stays intended to be worn as the bodice of a formal gown. It likely had a matching petticoat which was often used by later generations to make new garments. A silk lampas like that is extremely expensive.

I feel it is second quater because of the shortness in the overall torso of the stays itself (they seem to get shorter and shorter throughout the 18th century until they are actually cut above the waistline by the 1780s/90s) and the ridge (like the bow of a ship) which runs down the center front of the stomacher. I saw stomachers built exactly like this one in the Snowshill collection and they are solid...really solid! They do not bend at all. Multiple layers of starched and sewn linen with specially cut unbendable boning. That ridge seems to be moving out of fashion in the third quarter of the 18th cen. My *theory* is that since this would have been an extremely expensive garment to make it is likely of the latest fashion of it's day. So my best guess is for it to be from 1730-1750.

But, who's to know anything exactly? There were so many variations of stay styles happening in the 18th century. Many staymakers were experienced with many years on the job and decades of traditions behind them, influencing them. Some older clients want what they want even if it is 20 or 30 years out of style. So we often have period garments which have combinations of fashion trends.

oh, someone asked about those lacing rings. I cannot see the garment up close to know if they are original. It was not common practice. As far as I have seen, it's the only one with them. But I have not seen every 18th cen stay in exhistence...yet.

Notes on the construction of the two antique 18th cen stays I own:

Common, simple, lower income person's stay of the third quarter of the 18th cen is here: http://www.laracorsets.com/Antique_corset_0162.htm

It is not at all right for GAOP but there are lessons to be learned from it's constrution. I recently sold it but have made a pattern and documented it completely. Yes, it was backstitched. Here is a pic of the inside. It was unlined so you can see it's construction clearly

0162_f.jpg

Click this link to see the big version of this photo http://www.laracorsets.com/images/Antique_...ages/0162_f.jpg

The nicer one I have is not yet on my website. I have to finish the pics and study of it. It's from mid century and is natural linen with a cream silk damask front panel.

You've all got me thinking of the stays of the late 17th / early 18th cen and my site is sorely lacking in info. I promise to update it soon so it may be more helpful.

Kisses,

Lara

www.LaraCorsets.com

Edited by LaraCorsets

Lara

aka - Rose

www.LaraCorsets.com

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Oi Sis, the parallel stitches running perpendicular to what looks like the seams... are they just holding down the seam allowance?


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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(who doesn't have a pretty signature pictur like all of you....*jealous*)

this can be arranged..


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Thanks


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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WOW Kate they are stunning! The color is scrumptious!

and Lara welcome... so enjoyed browsing your site, gorgeous stuff, only wish I had a full bank account!, I'd have quickly emptied it.

Edited by RustyNell

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“PIRACY, n. Commerce without its folly-swaddles, just as God made it.”

Ambrose Bierce

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Very nice, Kate. Again, kudos for a job well done. :P Now ye won't be naked.

Oh, thank ye most kindly, Lara, for th' info and all.

Glad t' have ye here with us. Though we are pirates, we are still dedicated to our desires an' finery. :P

~Lady B

Tempt Fate! an' toss 't all t' Hell!"

"I'm completely innocent of whatever crime I've committed."

The one, the only,... the infamous!

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