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At some point in the history of the sword the rapier was replaced by the small sword. Curious to know why this occurred. Was the rapier still in use by the GAOP or had it already been replaced?

Got a new replica flintlock and some cheapie blades and spiffied 'em up recently: My flintlock: My wife's new cutlass. Made the leather sheath m'self: My new cutlass: Nothing special or fancy but fun little modifications none the less.

andrew and i have started stage fighting with the local rennie group ... ( yes, it is by a certified teacher ) their training uses rapiers , so we bought two, yet they have no scabbards... kinda guess they figure that these are for stage combat, not wearing out and about... dunno so, i wanna make scabbards for them, and can use them for an earlier portrayal as well... searched on the web for for a few idears and came up pretty much empty handed... i want to make them out of thick leather as opposed to the standard wood and then leather wrap typical for a cutless does any one have a link or two they'd like to share with us ??

My personal sword that I made myself for Key West is now for sale. It has a brown leather scabbard that is made to fit in a baldric and I would be happy to make a drag(metal tip) for it if the buyer wished. I am asking $600 for the sword and $675 with the scabbard. $715 with metal tip on the scabbard. This is a huge savings. The sword alone would retial at $675 and the scabbard, as is, would be $112.00. The tip regularly adds $60 to the scabbard price. The sword is the first of this design and features many custom options. I also would throw in a free engraving on the blade. A name or logo/crew flag. Here is a link to the thread with all the details. https://pyracy.com/index.php?showtopic=18395 It is set up as a blunt now but I would through in a sharpening if the buyer wishes. Thanks for looking!

I know I promised a full tutorial on this piece and I will write one up and get it on the site, but for now, here she is. This fall I finished this hanger sword for a re-enactor and I just got it uploaded to our site and thought that I would share it with you all. It features a custom shaped wide sharp 27" blade with distal taper. double hand ground fullers(Swatton style). A short false edge at the tip. A custom shaped clamshell with a forged thumb ring. Spiral fluted cocobolo handle. A wrought iron end cap that was ground to shape. A forged Iron knucklebow that was left crusty(forge scale) by request of the customer. More pics and info here : http://imakeswords.com/hanger.htm Here are a few WIP shots I have a ton more in progress photos on our facebook here http://www.facebook....81225150&type=3 Thanks for looking. Comments always welcome!

I hear and see most of the RenFaires and Pub Crawls, etc in the area sayin' that ye' sword needs ta be "peace tied". Wot the heck does tha' mean & how ta do it?

For those of you that may not know I am currently in the process of building a scabbard for my new sword from Privateer Armory. I have just acquired enough supplies to start the project and will be updating it here. I plan on a stretched leather scabbard with no wooden core. I also plan on adding a bronze tip and and lock. This is the sword I bought and a link to Privateer Armory.

I got a gift card to Tandy leather as an early Christmas present and will be attempting my first leather scabbard. Any one have suggestions on any how to guides or reference materials?

If yer gearin' up for PIP no need to lighten yer hoard o' booty too drastic. I bought a knock off blade w/ scabbard on clearance for $25. Spent $3 on 3 leather cinch belts at a thrift store, added a little pirate craft & in this humble Jack Tar's opinion, a decent serviceable looking weapon. I didn't tear apart the handle yet but I wouldn't trust it a fight against a whorehouse swab! Just fer looks. Pic in my gallery.

A Sword Belt I recently made based on a picture of a Fantasy Pirate Girl. It has all period correct brass buckles and includes a detachable Pistol holster with leg strap and a Sword scabbard for one of Baltimore Knife and Swords Cutlass . The top part of the belt tightens around the waist while the thicker bottom part of the belt hangs loose over the hips.

I know this is a pyrate forum, but I found it doing some do-it-yourself research for some leather work (in particular, my nephew is making a pirate costume and I'm helping him with things like belt, baldric, and bracers.) I figure that if I'm going to be using your do it yourself forum, I may as well contribute a little! So without further yammering from me... My sgain dubhs, or black knife. It is either worn in the top of the Highlanders boot, sock, or hidden. My son and my dirk, or Scottish short sword:

I just purchase an NCO naval hanger. I don't know it it's coated brass or just polished. The last thing I want to do is look like a "new" pirate. How do I get the finish off....or if it's already off...how do I get it to look used...IE....dull brass finish?

I just finished my new sword belt. I wanted to share. Loosely based on what was presented in this thread. Sword Carriages I wanted to keep it with a 1 inch belt. Let me know what you think.

Well, being sick did have an upside, it gave me some time t' crawl around in pain and finally get me first leather project done! Me first shaped leather scabbard fer me stage sword - thanks for th' leather Sage Lion! Full sheath Close up o' th' throat Close up o' th' tip, business end Now I am not sure how Barbossa Leather does his exactly but I used it as me inspiration and researched some leather working ideas online. After cutting th' leather t' size (actually 'over sized' as th' final cut be after all is sewn up) I soaked th' leather in Very Hot tap water for roughly 15min. (NOT boiling, that is another technique but I did not want t' chance it first time around). While th' leather was soaked and workable I stretched it over th' blade and used flat wooden slats and several clamps t' clamp it down (along where ye see me sew work at). Now mind ye, this be an Aluminum sword; for fine steel be sure ye oil it WELL before wrapping in wet leather!!! I would recommend a good thick fish oil if possible, like what steel from th' steel mill comes covered in - really messy stuff (aye, I was once a wrought iron worker, came home covered in th' stuff!) I left it stand for a good 24 hours t' dry; times will vary but at th' time it twas about 88~96 degrees out. After several hours I began pulling th' sword in and out and working it around, just so it don't tighten up too much as th' leather drys out. After a day I took out th' sword and removed th' clamps, th' shape was made and holding well so I let it dry out another couple days so the inside fully dried. (sorry I did not think t' take photos of these steps - remember, I was sicker then a dog!) Once dried I died th' two pieces (main body and throat collar) with Fiebing's oil dye (had t' ship from Canada as California has some law against it) - mind ye; this dye dries a LOT lighter then th' swatches!! It turned out much lighter then I had wanted, even after a second coat; I will remedy that once I can get me hands on some darker dye. The dye dries fast, I could have started sewing within several minutes, but I was sick, so I started a day or two latter. First I fixed th' collar t' th' body with a Button Stud from Eleather Supply and anvil (aye, they have a special li'l anvil fer them studs), then I placed th' sword in and began t' sew it up with Sinew. Now this is me first attempt at such a project so ye may notice me slight mistake; th' sword only goes in so far and about a 1/4 o' blade be exposed. This happened as I squeezed too much when I reached th' tip and was forming th' leather over, I did not notice and th' force squeezed th' blade out a tad, by th' time I notice it twas too late, th' holes had been punched and stitches in place...oh well, I be a fighter not a tailor! Well, there ye have it; a Shaped Leather sword scabbard. I know there were many who were aghast when I spoke of soaking th' leather, but it is actually a whole art in leather craft and much info available on th' net about it: Google up 'Leather Armor' and 'Cuir Bouilli' As fer Barbossa Leather's concerns about keeping a razor sharp blade in an all leather scabbard, I think I have now turned he'm as well; both me Windlass POTC replica as well as me Windlass Dutch Cutlass (aye, I purchased their last one; they make them no more) are now housed in one o' he's scabbards (a bit thicker leather then what I got from Sage Lion of course, but mine just be fer a stage blade)

Should the baldric be worn over the great coat or under it? I guess over it would make it more easy to draw a blade or other weapon but I imagine that the coat could also protect the weapons also. Anyone?